Well, they've started that corn fuel here now. Unfortunately as of present, The State of NC says pumps DO NOT have to have a notice of ethanol content, provided it's not over 10% so one never knows anymore, plus it's all gone up .20 per gallon. And, since it's alcohol, water will mix with it and not seperate. Lots of cars on hooks around here lately I've noticed...

Anyway, was wondering if some of the guys who have had to deal with it for a while might have any advice as to whether we need to do anything jetting or timing wise to help with mileage and what-not?

 

When we first switch to that junk, I had some issues.. It all happened about the same time as my ignition pick-up wires opening intermitantly, but I did find some fuel issues at the same time... Anyhow, I focussed on the fuel for a while and found my petcock filter was nearly clogged with trash that had been loosened up and my fuel line and crossover hose swelled, nearly closed.. I blame it on the ethanol because two of my buddys had the same issues.. I fully expected to rejet the carb, but even to date, I've yet to get a ping and my plugs look good... I'd recomend, just running it and paying close attention to noise (I know thats a no brainer for us).. Also, try not to let the fuel set too long, definitly not with a low tank.. The less air in the tank, the less condensation and water growth..It also has a shelf life of only about 90 days.. Think about your 4 wheeler, lawn mower, weed eater, chainsaw, etc... 10% lowers the economy a bit and cleans everything really well.. But, shouldnt hurt anything long term, if its fresh and clean.. 10% should have about a 13.5:1 A/F ratio, meaning with current settings, your bike could very well run lean.... Its the higher concentrations that worry me.. These fools sold the public on 10% and global warming, no telling how long it will take for us to see more...


Check this out...

 

me and hgm have had very indepth converstaions about this topic, Ill sum it up quickly for you, Ethanol fuel is more corrosive than 100 percent gasoline, espically to rubber, nylon, etc etc, and yes, it drives our feed prices up, the price of milk and eggs and all that, so yea, its a scam, But, does 10 ethanol fuel run better correctly jetted, yes, not nec that you will feel a difference, but the ocatne rating is higher with alcohol fuels, and thats a good thing with air cooled motors, esp when we add compression, So fatten that bike of yours up, and you probably wont notice any difference, chad.

 

If you still have the original fuel lines, I would consider replacing them sooner rather than later. My crossover fuel hose rotted out on me a couple years ago, and judging by how it rotted out (got real soft), I'm saying it was the ethanol that did it. I had replaced the main line from the petcock before that with some stainless braided, which is still rubber inside, remember.

Basically, the older the fuel system, the more you have to worry about it. Newer systems (including internal carb gaskets/seals) should be able to handle the ethanol.

Years ago, back in shovelhead days, I used to carry a test kit with me to make sure I wasn't putting any of that in the old bitch. The test kit was a test tube with lines on it. You put gas to this line, added water to that line, shook it up, let it settle and depending on where it separated out (same line you added gas to or different) it showed how much/if you had alcohol in it. Methanol is a lot harder on systems than the ethanol, and back then you didn't know what you were getting. I don't worry about it anymore.

 

We still use that process for testing ethanol content today. I can give you the formula and what you need to acuratly determine the actual percentage if anyone wants.. But, basicly, you can get an idea by filling an old water bottle(clean and dry) half full with fuel. Then filling the other half with water. Shake and let settle.. You'll watch your water level grow and fuel level shrink...

 

I've used it on trips naturally, but never adjusted for it - just let it do as it would. Some tanks got decent mileage, others terrible. But I did get some that was called "super regular" that had 10% + and it did a lot better than premium I'd been getting. That was in the middle of the country, but I can't remember which state.

Seems everywhere now it's becoming the "norm" so thought I'd ask if there were any tuning tips for economy. I've kept it a tick rich since it's been so cold, but reckon I'll leave it that way and see how bad my mileage is in warmer weather.

I grew up thinking corn was only for bread, cattle and making white liquor...

 

I've never seen 87 octane that had ethanol in it, other than at higher elevations, and a stock compression Evo should run fine on 87, so if you can stick to that you should be good. My experience with ethanol was the last time I was in Denver and that's all you can get there, in the summer anyway. 87 octane in Denver is the equivalent of 89 at lower elevations. But once you get up in the mountains away from the cities 85 octane (same as 87 on the flat) with no ethanol is once again available. In any case, I was in Denver for a couple of days and have to admit I had no noticeable problem with the fuel.
But I do not use it at home, in anything. It's too corrosive and attracts moisture and doesn't have near the energy (BTU's) that good old gasoline does.

 

Yea, we have no choice here... They've been rammin it up our asses for about a year and a half now.. 87-93, no choice.. It does run cooler, but provides less power... Like Chad and I talked about in another thread, it works out well for drag racers, since it burns cooler and has a higher octane, if you can deliver enough of it.. But, its terrible for fuel economy and effects every fasset of our lives in a negative way..... This stuff really gets me going...

Anyhow, Rufus, as long as you keep it rich, it will probably be just fine. If you find and repair problems, they likely wont return due to better quality replacement parts.. Its mainly rubber deterioration, corrosion and water gathering issues...

Its the guys who dyno tune for every last HP out of the engine, requiring lean mixtures to obtain the power, that I worry about.. All it takes is a "slug" of higher alcohol content to lean them out at the wrong time to melt stuff down..

 

Jeez,
Just another problem now that we have to deal with. More money for less product, but at least we have a few stations still with 3 hose pumps. That way you are not getting a bunch of 87 regular when paying for 93 high test. Gotta pay a bit extra for the 93 at 10.5 to 1, but keep the alcohol IMHP for the booze and not my fuel.

 

I did the math once on a 1 hose, 3 product pump - we getting ripped off bad and now most of them even reset after a few seconds so you don't even know what was in the hose from the last time. Costs more and produces less... actually, costs less - they just charge more, what a deal!

Don't get me on my political sopabox. You think Bruce Arnold is way out there... you ain't heard nuthing