Dave, When i first got into harleys, lifters and pushrod adjustment really intimidated me too, so dont feel bad, they real way is to do it and learn, Buy yourself a manual, shows you how to get the clips off the tubes, Also, even tho this is the long way, when your adjusting pushrods, Say your adjusting the front exhaust, I bring the rear exhaust lifter/valve up on a cam lobe, so its moving upwards, then adjust your front, but wait for 15 minutes before spinning the motor over, or till the pushrod can spin freely with your hand, or you will bend a valve, get in there and do it, its not so bad once u do. chad.

 

Dave,

It is a good idea to change lifters as well, the 18523-86B are pretty popular, but I think the next time I will try the Ultima lifters.

I had to read everything several times and because I only did it a couple times still have to read a lot. Around the center of the push rod tube covers is a fatter piece and it is all spring loaded. I am trying to include a picture of a tool that may give you the idea of how it works - the tool sets on the fat part and as you squeeze the handle it opens and pushes down the fatter center piece so you can lift out the top chrome section releasing the spring tension . You don't need the tool but it is nicer.





on edit:

when the fatter center part of the chrome tube covers goes down you can easily remove the top piece that is held in by the spring tension, it all looks something like:








also, be careful with the O rings, you may want to change them as well if you remove the pushrods

.

 

On the top of the pushrod tube you will see where the metal is pushed out. Stick a screwdriver in there and twist it, the top piece will pop out. Then slide the fat collar up, the bottom tube should slide up exposing the pushrod. If it doesn't slide up the rubber o-ring is stuck. If you look at the top of the lower chrome piece you will see an o-ring pushed down into a slightly wider part of the tube. Take a small screwdriver or a pick and work the o-ring loose. When you take these tubes apart lay the parts out in order so that you can put them back in the same place, after you've done them acouple of times you will know where they belong. When removing the lifter blocks remember that they have to have all the gasket material removed from the gasket surfaces or you will have a leak. Be careful when you clean the engine surface as it is aluminum and can be damaged. The lifter blocks are steel and don't damage unless you really try. There are oil hole in the side of the lifters an they are installed facing inwards towards each other. The gaskets are different for the front and rear lifter block so take care making sure that the oil holes are exposed. If you have any more questions please feel free to send me a message with your phone number and we can talk. Hope this helps.

 

Hey pa 4:58 am and you are posting ??? Whats up with that, now I call that devoted !!! LOL

 

I usually get up about 3 - 3:30 AM. We used to blame it on the old dog, but she has been dead for several weeks and I still wake up earlier than I need to do. Even staying up past midnight doesn't stop the early wake up but it does make me feel like crap.


joe

 

are you supposed to push the "collar" down first?

 

I just grab the part that sticks out from the top cover with some slip joint pliers and give a tug. Comes right out. Putting them back in, wedge the cover up under the lip, thin screwdriver pushing down on the bottom spring loaded part and the cover slips right into place with a little push as the bottom of the cover rides on the top of the screwdriver.

Now, fer da clatter: 30K on a set of lifters is kinda time to look at them at a minimum, and if you're in there, replace them. Also, I think 94 had the bad inner cam bearing, didn't it guys? My 86 didn't so I don't worry about it, but I think 94 did. So, that's gotta be replaced too. And inspect the cam real closely looking for pits on the lobes. One pit on one lobe means bad cam.

1. Replace inner cam bearing.
2. Replace lifters (use Genuine H.D.)
3. Inspect cam, replace as necessary, don't forget the shims.
4. Some gaskets.

Some people swear by the lifter block alignment tool but I've never used one. Just center it all by feel. Oh, and clatter noise could be from the inner cam bearing going out. If you don't get it in time, it's new motor time.

Yeah, it's a PITA, but then, if it has **** or wheels....

 

No it will just pop out by twisting the screwdriver. Twist it so that the bottom comes out first.

 

That's exactly along the lines I was thinking, but...to be honest I suspect it just might be a little over my head. That was kinda the point of this thread, hoping I could hook up with a seasoned wrench who could walk me through it in person. Just more comfortable with someone around who knows exactly what they're doing.

Thanks for the detailed response, and thanks again to everyone who has responded! Love this place.

 

another question on this...can I replace the "star" bolts on the lifter blocks with equivalent socket head cap screws?