$3k quote from the Indy
#1
$3k quote from the Indy
Just got back from my Indy down the street:
Service Quote:
New cam, Cam bearing, all gaskets, B lifters, adjustable pushrods, intake and exhaust port job, re-do the cylinders and the heads, new pistons etc. and a dyno at the end= $3grand
Seems kind of like a waste when you can find completely re-done evo motors for a little over $2grand.
Service Quote:
New cam, Cam bearing, all gaskets, B lifters, adjustable pushrods, intake and exhaust port job, re-do the cylinders and the heads, new pistons etc. and a dyno at the end= $3grand
Seems kind of like a waste when you can find completely re-done evo motors for a little over $2grand.
#3
Just got back from my Indy down the street:
Service Quote:
New cam, Cam bearing, all gaskets, B lifters, adjustable pushrods, intake and exhaust port job, re-do the cylinders and the heads, new pistons etc. and a dyno at the end= $3grand
Seems kind of like a waste when you can find completely re-done evo motors for a little over $2grand.
Service Quote:
New cam, Cam bearing, all gaskets, B lifters, adjustable pushrods, intake and exhaust port job, re-do the cylinders and the heads, new pistons etc. and a dyno at the end= $3grand
Seems kind of like a waste when you can find completely re-done evo motors for a little over $2grand.
It sounds a little high. But, the only thing to remember about those redone motors, is who redid it? What happens when it takes a dump after only 500 miles? If you trust this Indy with the work, you would be much better off letting him do it. When you have a local Indy do the work, his lcoal reputation is on the line. If you want to save some money, do some of the work yourself. You can save about $350 just by pulling the motor yourself, and taking it to him.
#4
JMO: A mild re-do will get your EVO into the 80+/80+ (hp/tq) bracket depending on cam selection, pipes, ignition, and carb tuning. You'll have good street manners, decent fuel mileage, and pretty much stock longevity.
You can get into the 100/95 area (with 80"), but there starts the tradeoffs. And the additional expense. At that point, if I were going to build one of those 100+/100+ motors, I would opt for a JIMS or S&S stroker. And a Baker 6-speed.
It's only money... Right?
#5
I think having the top end done on my 80" was a similar price and they did the heads as well, went to bigger valves etc, 10:1 pistons,cam, ignition, adjustable pushrods etc. - the usual 80-85 hp routine. It made a considerable difference, but not as much as putting in the Ultima 113 which only cost a couple hundred more. I kept the 80" as a spare, but not excited about ever using it again.
#6
I think having the top end done on my 80" was a similar price and they did the heads as well, went to bigger valves etc, 10:1 pistons,cam, ignition, adjustable pushrods etc. - the usual 80-85 hp routine. It made a considerable difference, but not as much as putting in the Ultima 113 which only cost a couple hundred more. I kept the 80" as a spare, but not excited about ever using it again.
I appreciate the responses, the re-manufactured evo's come with warranties I think for 10,000 miles and cost about $2400 out of VA, but yes, I'm at stock again. According to the Indy the listed changes should put it at about 80/80, which is fine, I dont need 100hp. I'm not looking for a racehorse out of the old girl.
I wanted to see if others had similar prices. I guess the biggest question in my mind is why drop $3k when I could just save up a little more and do the Ultima swap. Seems like a better idea so I may just do the cam and cam bearing now and start stocking $$$ away.
#7
Top End Rebuild
I had a similar batch of top end work done two years back and it was in that same ballpark, so the price isn't really an issue. I have been very happy with the performance improvements this work gave me; it felt like a new machine when I got it back. And I now have no real worries about anything motor-related for many miles to come yet as all the major stuff was already taken care of in the rebuild. To me it was well worth it.
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#8
3 grand is too much if you're only getting 80 horses. You should be able to get ported heads, and a 90-100 horse motor for that kind of money, assuming you have the ignition, carb, etc, pipes, already there. Check out Kendall Johnson, IIRC that kind of money will get you 100 solid, reliable horses.
If that price is going to get you over 90 horses, or better yet, around 100, that's not too bad of a deal.
You could buy every part and specialty tool you need to build a 80 horse motor for under half that, I've done it.
Stock heads with no porting, a moderate cam, and bumped compression will get you 80, easy. Again, assuming you have a good carb, Air Cleaner, pipes, and ignition. Add porting ($500 for a good basic valve job, up to $1500 for race type porting) and you will easily end up with 90 to well over 100 horses.
And, don't believe the hype, a properly built 80 will not blow itself up in a year or two, or need top ends every 10K. Done RIGHT, you will still get 50K between top ends, and have an engine you do not have to worry about. Every bit as reliable as the bigger aftermarket motors. More in many cases.
If you do decide to go the crate route, keep in mind that once you throw in the amount you can get for your current 80 should you decide to sell, you will probably already be at the price of a new engine.
If that price is going to get you over 90 horses, or better yet, around 100, that's not too bad of a deal.
You could buy every part and specialty tool you need to build a 80 horse motor for under half that, I've done it.
Stock heads with no porting, a moderate cam, and bumped compression will get you 80, easy. Again, assuming you have a good carb, Air Cleaner, pipes, and ignition. Add porting ($500 for a good basic valve job, up to $1500 for race type porting) and you will easily end up with 90 to well over 100 horses.
And, don't believe the hype, a properly built 80 will not blow itself up in a year or two, or need top ends every 10K. Done RIGHT, you will still get 50K between top ends, and have an engine you do not have to worry about. Every bit as reliable as the bigger aftermarket motors. More in many cases.
If you do decide to go the crate route, keep in mind that once you throw in the amount you can get for your current 80 should you decide to sell, you will probably already be at the price of a new engine.
#9
Hmm, interesting thought. It had never even crossed my mind to sell the 80. But that is a great way to cover some of the expense.
#10
First post, so take this for what it's worth....
My 96 is in the shop right now. The INA bearing finally died and I'm having it repaired. While it is there, I'm having base gaskets done, cylinders reconditioned, new rings, lap the valves, new seals, new cam and lifters, new fuel lines (injected) and fork seals done. The quote is under $1000 in Phoenix. Granted, no porting but that sounds excessive to me.
Is there someone else in your area with a good rep who can give you another quote?
My 96 is in the shop right now. The INA bearing finally died and I'm having it repaired. While it is there, I'm having base gaskets done, cylinders reconditioned, new rings, lap the valves, new seals, new cam and lifters, new fuel lines (injected) and fork seals done. The quote is under $1000 in Phoenix. Granted, no porting but that sounds excessive to me.
Is there someone else in your area with a good rep who can give you another quote?