anti-dive
#51
No wiring diagram shows the spade terminal strip that's riveted to the aluminum block. Mine has it, but I never studied it long enough to know what all was there.
This is for a couple years later model. The diagram for yours is impossible to photograph but with a magnifying glass, I see it's basically the same. At the connector coming off the right handlebar, where the red wire is located, on the opposing connector there is a built-in jumper from the red wire to an adjacent terminal. Originally, that's where the positive voltage for the anti-dive valve was terminated. I realize it's a witches nightmare in there, but hope this helps.....
This is for a couple years later model. The diagram for yours is impossible to photograph but with a magnifying glass, I see it's basically the same. At the connector coming off the right handlebar, where the red wire is located, on the opposing connector there is a built-in jumper from the red wire to an adjacent terminal. Originally, that's where the positive voltage for the anti-dive valve was terminated. I realize it's a witches nightmare in there, but hope this helps.....
#52
Hey t1,
I'm glad I made the comment about calling it done when it appears it isn't.
"At any rate, if the valve is working you WILL hear a loud click when it actuates - you can hear it with the bike running, even a low highway speeds. So don't call it done until you can hear it."
I definitely haven't heard a loud click. I'm going to hold out and hopefully wait for someone to give me some guidance regarding the 8 x terminals on the side of the valve unit.
Confirming I have connected one of the wires from the new solenoid into the terminal connector which has the red wire / brake light in it. The other wire on the solenoid was previously connected to the top, far RHS of the valve unit. I made the small change of terminating the solenoid earth wire into the top of the triple tree where 2 other wires are earthed.
Thanks for the wiring drawing, can't really make out anything though.
I'm glad I made the comment about calling it done when it appears it isn't.
"At any rate, if the valve is working you WILL hear a loud click when it actuates - you can hear it with the bike running, even a low highway speeds. So don't call it done until you can hear it."
I definitely haven't heard a loud click. I'm going to hold out and hopefully wait for someone to give me some guidance regarding the 8 x terminals on the side of the valve unit.
Confirming I have connected one of the wires from the new solenoid into the terminal connector which has the red wire / brake light in it. The other wire on the solenoid was previously connected to the top, far RHS of the valve unit. I made the small change of terminating the solenoid earth wire into the top of the triple tree where 2 other wires are earthed.
Thanks for the wiring drawing, can't really make out anything though.
#53
That block with all the spade connectors is your ground. Where are you picking up the brake light circuit? Have you confirmed that when you apply the brake, the light comes on and +12V is across your solenoid? I'll bet not, and I'll bet that was probably the original problem you had with it.
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t150vej (01-01-2020)
#54
Hi Dr,
Thanks for confirming that the air unit 8 x terminals are all ground/earth points.
As previously mentioned "Confirming I have connected one of the wires from the new solenoid into the terminal connector which has the red wire / brake light in it", the other solenoid wire is earthed. I checked the wiring diagram and am well aware that the red wire from the front brake is where I connect the solenoid to.
I am totally confused because I have wired the solenoid up as others and you have mentioned.
I think I need to test the solenoid in order to confirm it's not a dud. What process does that involve? I have a good quality digital multi meter.
Thanks for confirming that the air unit 8 x terminals are all ground/earth points.
As previously mentioned "Confirming I have connected one of the wires from the new solenoid into the terminal connector which has the red wire / brake light in it", the other solenoid wire is earthed. I checked the wiring diagram and am well aware that the red wire from the front brake is where I connect the solenoid to.
I am totally confused because I have wired the solenoid up as others and you have mentioned.
I think I need to test the solenoid in order to confirm it's not a dud. What process does that involve? I have a good quality digital multi meter.
Last edited by nowuckers; 01-01-2020 at 04:27 PM. Reason: add information
#55
Well, you can start by checking the resistance of the coil. Don't know what the spec is, but I would GUESS somewhere around 12 ohms. Better test is to take a wire from your battery + or the breaker and touch the solenoid wire that you have going to the brake circuit. The brake light should come on and the solenoid should click. If it doesn't take the other wire from the solenoid and ground that separately, or run a jumper back to your battery negative and try again.
#57
Just finished your test method by isolating the positive feed to the solenoid directly to the battery and it definitely works. I could hear a distinct clicking sound which I haven't heard before.
I ran a circuit tester with light into the rear (solenoid side) of the multi terminal block (from the handlebar RHS) and when I hit the front brake it lights up.
I'm well confused because I have confirmed the solenoid works as designed and I have a live circuit from the front brake wire when I pull on the brake lever. When I plug the positive wire back into the terminal block I have nothing happening with the solenoid. Sheesh, this is still doing my head in.
I ran a circuit tester with light into the rear (solenoid side) of the multi terminal block (from the handlebar RHS) and when I hit the front brake it lights up.
I'm well confused because I have confirmed the solenoid works as designed and I have a live circuit from the front brake wire when I pull on the brake lever. When I plug the positive wire back into the terminal block I have nothing happening with the solenoid. Sheesh, this is still doing my head in.
Last edited by nowuckers; 01-01-2020 at 05:50 PM. Reason: add information
#58
Just finished your test method by isolating the positive feed to the solenoid directly to the battery and it definitely works. I could hear a distinct clicking sound which I haven't heard before.
I ran a circuit tester with light into the rear (solenoid side) of the multi terminal block (from the handlebar RHS) and when I hit the front brake it lights up.
I'm well confused because I have confirmed the solenoid works as designed and I have a live circuit from the front brake wire when I pull on the brake lever. When I plug the positive wire back into the terminal block I have nothing happening with the solenoid. Sheesh, this is still doing my head in.
I ran a circuit tester with light into the rear (solenoid side) of the multi terminal block (from the handlebar RHS) and when I hit the front brake it lights up.
I'm well confused because I have confirmed the solenoid works as designed and I have a live circuit from the front brake wire when I pull on the brake lever. When I plug the positive wire back into the terminal block I have nothing happening with the solenoid. Sheesh, this is still doing my head in.
At the terminal block off the right handlebar harness, take it apart there... the (+) for the solenoid should be connected beside the red wire. If you look closely, it may be on the handle bar side or the main harness side of one of the mating plastic blocks... you should see a tiny copper strip on the inside of one of those 2 plastic blocks. One end of the copper strip should be on the red wire pin (or socket) and the other end will be the one your solenoid connects to. It likely will not have a corresponding "wire" exiting the plastic block opposite your valve wire. Of course, all this assuming the wiring hasn't been butchered over the years.
Wish I had a photo, it'd make perfect sense if you could see it. Anyway, have a safe flight....
#59
Yeah, I don't think you have the feed for the solenoid on the right spot either. A photo would help. Look around like t150vej says. Then put your test light or meter on the place you think you are picking up the brake light circuit from and activate the brake light. Does that point have +12V on it? I think that's your problem.
Have a safe trip.
Have a safe trip.
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