85 FXRS Rocker boxes
#1
85 FXRS Rocker boxes
Hey guys, newbee here with an 85 FXRS that has both of the rocker boxes leaking. front side is leaking the worst and i can get to that one but the rear is starting to leak also. The FXR frame is really tight over the rear head and i am wondering if there is some trick i am missing to getting in there and sealing it. Any help would be great, thanks attached is a pic of my ride
#2
#3
#4
That's just a regular rubber mount frame there, right? You can do like most of us and cut down a allen wrench until it fits under the frame for the left rear bolt, or you can do like the book says and lower the motor at the front motor mount. Either way, that's the only one you have trouble getting at.
#6
Welcome.
Now for your 'problem': Leaky rockers (along with base gaskets) are a somewhat common condition on EVOs, so there are lots of 'tricks of the trade' to reseal them.
You do not have to remove the engine to reseal the rocker boxes. The MoCo would've went bankrupt back in the early 90's if that was the case. I have a 'special' cut down Allen wrench that I use. However, there are specialized wrenches that would be worth the money to have in your tool box. Check with either JP Cycles or any of the other vendors.
Put the bike on a jack/stand, pull the fuel tank, and remove the covers. I would fight the urge to just replace 'what you think is leaking', and replace the entire gasket set. If you don't have a torque wrench, you will need one for the bolts inside the boxes. You should be able to R&R your rocker boxes in an afternoon. The dealers, IIRC, charge around 4 hours labor + parts. The last gasket set I purchased from a dealer was around $50.
Use quality gaskets. The new OEM replacements are fine. I've never used any of the ones from James, et. al., so I can't comment on them.
IMPORTANT: Check the individual pieces for warpage. They DO warp. When they warp, you aren't going to get them to reseal. Ya gotta trust me on this one, after three years of dealing with leaking rocker boxes, I can attest to that. Oh, and just because the parts are NEW, doesn't mean they are not warped. Get a piece of plate glass and 'wiggle' them on it. Most commonly it's the center 'spacer' that warps. Here's another 'Trust Me': If you've got a warped section, pay the $$$ and get a Genuine HD part to replace it. Unless you're going to upgrade to a set of S&S boxes, I wouldn't throw money away on aftermarket junk.
Now for your 'problem': Leaky rockers (along with base gaskets) are a somewhat common condition on EVOs, so there are lots of 'tricks of the trade' to reseal them.
You do not have to remove the engine to reseal the rocker boxes. The MoCo would've went bankrupt back in the early 90's if that was the case. I have a 'special' cut down Allen wrench that I use. However, there are specialized wrenches that would be worth the money to have in your tool box. Check with either JP Cycles or any of the other vendors.
Put the bike on a jack/stand, pull the fuel tank, and remove the covers. I would fight the urge to just replace 'what you think is leaking', and replace the entire gasket set. If you don't have a torque wrench, you will need one for the bolts inside the boxes. You should be able to R&R your rocker boxes in an afternoon. The dealers, IIRC, charge around 4 hours labor + parts. The last gasket set I purchased from a dealer was around $50.
Use quality gaskets. The new OEM replacements are fine. I've never used any of the ones from James, et. al., so I can't comment on them.
IMPORTANT: Check the individual pieces for warpage. They DO warp. When they warp, you aren't going to get them to reseal. Ya gotta trust me on this one, after three years of dealing with leaking rocker boxes, I can attest to that. Oh, and just because the parts are NEW, doesn't mean they are not warped. Get a piece of plate glass and 'wiggle' them on it. Most commonly it's the center 'spacer' that warps. Here's another 'Trust Me': If you've got a warped section, pay the $$$ and get a Genuine HD part to replace it. Unless you're going to upgrade to a set of S&S boxes, I wouldn't throw money away on aftermarket junk.
#7
That's just a regular rubber mount frame there, right? You can do like most of us and cut down a allen wrench until it fits under the frame for the left rear bolt, or you can do like the book says and lower the motor at the front motor mount. Either way, that's the only one you have trouble getting at.
I cut a small piece of allen wrench avout 3/4 inch long and insert it into the hex head and use a wrench to turn the allen wrench.
I fiund it a lot easier than trying to get that allen whrench into the bolt hear every time you have to re-position it.
Try it you'll like it.
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#8
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Piling on here....
I also use the cut down allen wrench. Fortunately, I've had to open those so rarely, I haven't minded doing it that way. As previously posted....check the trueness of your rocker box sections on a sheet of kinda thick glass. I used James gaskets on mine and they did great.
I also use the cut down allen wrench. Fortunately, I've had to open those so rarely, I haven't minded doing it that way. As previously posted....check the trueness of your rocker box sections on a sheet of kinda thick glass. I used James gaskets on mine and they did great.
#9
I will have to disagree with all of you. I have done the job a few times and the best way is the way that the manual states. Lower the motor. You do not have to remove the motor as someone stated. Just lower it from the front motor mount. It is way easier than screwing around with a shortened allen wrench and no room to work. I tried that way too and ended up having to go back in and do the job the correct way.