need timing light
#21
On the flywheel, the TDC mark is a line. The 35 degree mark is a dot. The dot is what you want to be seeing. You need to have the engine reved to at least 1500 (or more) RPMs to ensure the ignition is fully advanced when checking. Rotating the sensor plate clockwise will advance timing. Counter-clockwise will lower timing.
#22
On the flywheel, the TDC mark is a line. The 35 degree mark is a dot. The dot is what you want to be seeing. You need to have the engine reved to at least 1500 (or more) RPMs to ensure the ignition is fully advanced when checking. Rotating the sensor plate clockwise will advance timing. Counter-clockwise will lower timing.
#24
NO, 70 degrees on the dial unless it has a switch for 2 or 4 cycle engines. Assuming you now have the "dial" type advance timing light without a selectable "cycle" feature and also assuming you have a stock ignition (dual fire) do this;
Get everything ready (clear plug in, and sensor lead of light connected to front plug wire and power leads connected to battery) start it and lock the throttle so it will run 1500 - 2100 RPMs. Then look thru the plug with the strobe and dial the light UP until you can see the TDC mark (the line) If it is near correct you will find it somewhere around 70 degrees. Remember with dual fire ignition, the light is reading double sparks per revolution... as I explained earlier. Wherever you find the TDC line centered, then HALF that dial reading and that is where the timing is set. After adjusting or to verify it's correct, you can set the dial to 0 (zero) and look for the advance DOT.
That's the beauty of an advance type light - you can find out "where" it's at without adjusting anything and that makes it easier by knowing which way, and approx. how much you need to move the timing sensor
But I realize this can be a little tough to get your head around if you've never used this method or that type light, so if I've been unclear or you need a different/better walk-thru, I'll be around this evening - drop me note....
#25
#26
Just got in - hope I caught you...
NO, 70 degrees on the dial unless it has a switch for 2 or 4 cycle engines. Assuming you now have the "dial" type advance timing light without a selectable "cycle" feature and also assuming you have a stock ignition (dual fire) do this;
Get everything ready (clear plug in, and sensor lead of light connected to front plug wire and power leads connected to battery) start it and lock the throttle so it will run 1500 - 2100 RPMs. Then look thru the plug with the strobe and dial the light UP until you can see the TDC mark (the line) If it is near correct you will find it somewhere around 70 degrees. Remember with dual fire ignition, the light is reading double sparks per revolution... as I explained earlier. Wherever you find the TDC line centered, then HALF that dial reading and that is where the timing is set. After adjusting or to verify it's correct, you can set the dial to 0 (zero) and look for the advance DOT.
That's the beauty of an advance type light - you can find out "where" it's at without adjusting anything and that makes it easier by knowing which way, and approx. how much you need to move the timing sensor
But I realize this can be a little tough to get your head around if you've never used this method or that type light, so if I've been unclear or you need a different/better walk-thru, I'll be around this evening - drop me note....
NO, 70 degrees on the dial unless it has a switch for 2 or 4 cycle engines. Assuming you now have the "dial" type advance timing light without a selectable "cycle" feature and also assuming you have a stock ignition (dual fire) do this;
Get everything ready (clear plug in, and sensor lead of light connected to front plug wire and power leads connected to battery) start it and lock the throttle so it will run 1500 - 2100 RPMs. Then look thru the plug with the strobe and dial the light UP until you can see the TDC mark (the line) If it is near correct you will find it somewhere around 70 degrees. Remember with dual fire ignition, the light is reading double sparks per revolution... as I explained earlier. Wherever you find the TDC line centered, then HALF that dial reading and that is where the timing is set. After adjusting or to verify it's correct, you can set the dial to 0 (zero) and look for the advance DOT.
That's the beauty of an advance type light - you can find out "where" it's at without adjusting anything and that makes it easier by knowing which way, and approx. how much you need to move the timing sensor
But I realize this can be a little tough to get your head around if you've never used this method or that type light, so if I've been unclear or you need a different/better walk-thru, I'll be around this evening - drop me note....
Last edited by RidemyEVO; 09-26-2009 at 04:59 PM.
#27
Ok got out to the bike finally, tdc line didn't like the white paint much but I did see the line revving at about 1400 rpm and to see the line I needed to keeping turning the dial until it was set to 12 degree but I'm thinking like you said that I need to double the 12 equlling 24 degree which is still retarded and turn up the rpm abit correct?
If you saw the line with the dial set at 12 that means the engine is timed at 6 degrees. You will need to rotate the sensor plate clockwise to advance the timing. And run it over 1500 RPMs when checking.
When you get close, you need to verify the VOES is working. Easiest way is to pull the vacuum hose off the carb (or manifold) that goes to the VOES and keep the vacuum plugged off while it's idleing and see if the idle speed drops. And you absoutely MUST check that before you ride it or risk destroying your engine. I mention this because the timing is SO low now, there is a possibility it's not working.
Most sensor plates will have the adjustment V "notch" at about 8 o'clock position when the timing is close.
#28
I'm thinking now I was seeing things because now I don't see any line at all with dial set at 12 degrees and if it was 12 on the dial I don't think the bike would even run at innitial 6 degrees, there's gotta be an easier way of seeing the line through the plastic plug, paint didn't work well it just washed away.
Last edited by RidemyEVO; 09-26-2009 at 05:40 PM.
#29
I have been a HD rider for over 35 years and I cannot believe the whining that I am hearing. So what a little oil pukes out the timing hole. I tried the clear plastic and found that it was a waste of time. I could not see the mark.
Anyway any timing light will do, Buck up and get the job done, I have more respect for the guy that checked his timing and got a little oil on himself than anyone alse that paid someone to do it for him. You guys that own Evos and newer have no idea what HD riding was like for those that choose HD as a DD and enjoyed every minute. I lived with people yelling to me to buy a Honda when I was broke down or pushing my bike before Evos. I would yell back that I would rathe push my HD. So buck and get dirty. I guarentee that you will get oil in your teeth from the smile knowing that you are doing something that every pan, shovel and knuckel owner have in common with the Evo.
The timing hole!
Anyway any timing light will do, Buck up and get the job done, I have more respect for the guy that checked his timing and got a little oil on himself than anyone alse that paid someone to do it for him. You guys that own Evos and newer have no idea what HD riding was like for those that choose HD as a DD and enjoyed every minute. I lived with people yelling to me to buy a Honda when I was broke down or pushing my bike before Evos. I would yell back that I would rathe push my HD. So buck and get dirty. I guarentee that you will get oil in your teeth from the smile knowing that you are doing something that every pan, shovel and knuckel owner have in common with the Evo.
The timing hole!