Peace and Quiet with an Evo!
#771
Thanks for the info GRBrown. Its definately nice to not have to be the test pilot on everything. Had you not said anything, I never would have known about the lenght difference until after my bike was taken apart! I will definately suck it up and pull the primary (AGAIN) and do the belt swap too. Besides, it will give me a chance to clean back there!
What did you do for bushing modification in your bike? I found some Oilite bushings I am sure would work to reduce the size of the stock 04+ bearings to the correct axle size, but wouldnt get the benifit of the lateral movement reduction. you already have the TT, so you were set on that front. I flog my bike fairly hard, and have had the rear step out more then once. I have thought about just machining my own bushings for the swinger so its hard to suck up $240.00 for a few pieces of $8.00 plastic.
How you like the ohlins? I know they make a fantastic product, I was running an ohlins shock on my race bike for a season, and for the track, it was worth every penny of the $800+ I paid for it.
What did you do for bushing modification in your bike? I found some Oilite bushings I am sure would work to reduce the size of the stock 04+ bearings to the correct axle size, but wouldnt get the benifit of the lateral movement reduction. you already have the TT, so you were set on that front. I flog my bike fairly hard, and have had the rear step out more then once. I have thought about just machining my own bushings for the swinger so its hard to suck up $240.00 for a few pieces of $8.00 plastic.
How you like the ohlins? I know they make a fantastic product, I was running an ohlins shock on my race bike for a season, and for the track, it was worth every penny of the $800+ I paid for it.
I only discovered the difference in belt length when I came to rebuild the bike! So I had some learning to do along the way. I also worked out that a 150 would fit, but found out the hard way it wouldn't go in with a wide belt, so I had to change belts for two reasons.
On the bushings, I was fortunate to find that the set I had were larger in diameter than needed for the new swingarm, so had them machined down. Bearing in mind I live in the UK I was not keen on buying new ones, partly because the exchange rate is not so good at present, but also because shipping and UK taxes add up to a lot on top.
For improved handling there really is not substitute for a True-Track kit. If you buy the Trackula kit it comes with rear stabilizer, new engine mounts all round plus swingarm bushings. What it gives you is the same set-up as a Buell and in 2005 they won a UK handling competition, against ALL the top Jap and other brand sport bikes. A TT won't let you do that on a dresser, but it transforms the bike, at all speeds.
I haven't done many miles on my Ohlins yet, still tidying up behind myself on the bike. The one thing I can say is I haven't noticed them! In other words the rear end doesn't make itself felt any more. The real test will come when I go out on it with my wife, as our comfort fully loaded is where this all started.
If you consider getting Ohlins, call Howard of HDF sponsor Motorcycle Metal. He has developed his own build spec especially for touring Harleys and gives forum members discounts.
#772
Not so much Peace or Quiet this afternoon!
As if I have not got enough to do, to get the bike roadworthy after my winter rear suspension mods, I took a shine to a set of new H-D fog lights (note to self: stop spending so much time on HDF, which is where the idea came from!). Shouldn't take long to fit, thought I. Needless-to-say the kit is not designed for an evo, but nor was my HID headlight kit.
With a few minor wiring alterations it all went together without a hitch. Final act before testing was to connect a wire to the appropriate thermal cutout in the headlight nacelle. Removed the halfwit of a halfnut, installed additional wire and promptly cross-threaded that stupid nut. Having damaged the thread, it would not fit! Air turned blue, expletives unrepeatable....
I eventually had to wrestle the cutout out of its holder (probably undisturbed since 1990), to gently file it down and remove the damaged part of the thread, then refit the nut, before putting everything back together where it belongs.
And we do this for fun?!
Oh - YES, they do work!
With a few minor wiring alterations it all went together without a hitch. Final act before testing was to connect a wire to the appropriate thermal cutout in the headlight nacelle. Removed the halfwit of a halfnut, installed additional wire and promptly cross-threaded that stupid nut. Having damaged the thread, it would not fit! Air turned blue, expletives unrepeatable....
I eventually had to wrestle the cutout out of its holder (probably undisturbed since 1990), to gently file it down and remove the damaged part of the thread, then refit the nut, before putting everything back together where it belongs.
And we do this for fun?!
Oh - YES, they do work!
Last edited by grbrown; 04-17-2010 at 11:41 AM. Reason: Spelling. Added para.
#773
We do this for fun?
I'm changing the oil and springs on my Ikon shocks today (going up a wt range because the wt loss program is not going as fast as needed)
Just think, for $40 I could have also bought the correct spring compressor tool form Ikon USA. But no, I had a WAY BETTER idea! DOHHHHHH.
If I was charging myself shop rate this job would be over the $1000 mark, not counting minor damages and scratches.
No riding today. Maybe tomorrow.
Hmmm, wonder if the job will go smoother after some cake?
I'm changing the oil and springs on my Ikon shocks today (going up a wt range because the wt loss program is not going as fast as needed)
Just think, for $40 I could have also bought the correct spring compressor tool form Ikon USA. But no, I had a WAY BETTER idea! DOHHHHHH.
If I was charging myself shop rate this job would be over the $1000 mark, not counting minor damages and scratches.
No riding today. Maybe tomorrow.
Hmmm, wonder if the job will go smoother after some cake?
#774
#777
For improved handling there really is not substitute for a True-Track kit. If you buy the Trackula kit it comes with rear stabilizer, new engine mounts all round plus swingarm bushings. What it gives you is the same set-up as a Buell and in 2005 they won a UK handling competition, against ALL the top Jap and other brand sport bikes. A TT won't let you do that on a dresser, but it transforms the bike, at all speeds.
I know the True Track made a huge improvement on my old mans SE ultra, its easy to get his boards down.. I think I have nearly ground the rear all the way through on his bike. I think thats why I am going to just get the stabo kit. It pretty much takes care of all the same issues. I really dont know what dumbass designer thought it a good idea to rubber mount the swingarm.
What HID setup are you using in your headlamp? I have the SE headlight with the separate high/low beam in mine. I almost spend the extra 200 for the HID version, but after seeing the beam pattern and talking to some other riders, it looked like that was not a good setup. I also considered cutting up a new light and doing a Projector Bi Xenon setup. Now if I could just find some HID spot lamp replacements! it sucks the bulbs are soo long.
On another note. I went to get my bike dyno tuned this weekend, Shop told me I had some nasty intake leaks, and I had never had the carb off the bike in the 3 years I have had it. So I ended up rebuilding the S&S. It was pretty nasty. I cant believe I let it get that bad. replaced all the intake seals and she is a completely different beast. Jetting is nearly dead on. I may play with the timing a bit to see if I can get a few more ponies out.
I know the True Track made a huge improvement on my old mans SE ultra, its easy to get his boards down.. I think I have nearly ground the rear all the way through on his bike. I think thats why I am going to just get the stabo kit. It pretty much takes care of all the same issues. I really dont know what dumbass designer thought it a good idea to rubber mount the swingarm.
What HID setup are you using in your headlamp? I have the SE headlight with the separate high/low beam in mine. I almost spend the extra 200 for the HID version, but after seeing the beam pattern and talking to some other riders, it looked like that was not a good setup. I also considered cutting up a new light and doing a Projector Bi Xenon setup. Now if I could just find some HID spot lamp replacements! it sucks the bulbs are soo long.
On another note. I went to get my bike dyno tuned this weekend, Shop told me I had some nasty intake leaks, and I had never had the carb off the bike in the 3 years I have had it. So I ended up rebuilding the S&S. It was pretty nasty. I cant believe I let it get that bad. replaced all the intake seals and she is a completely different beast. Jetting is nearly dead on. I may play with the timing a bit to see if I can get a few more ponies out.
#778
Meepers,
I have the original Harley HID conversion kit. The low beam is very wide, but the high beam is useless, even with a 100watt bulb in it. I don't recommend it! Go to HDF sponsor Motorcycle Metal where they sell a conversion kit which gets good reviews.
The swingarm is mounted off the rear of the transmission case. My understanding of the StaBo bushes is that they replace the flexible cleve blocks, but I have my doubts about them improving lateral movement in the rear rubber mounts to the chassis. That is why I bought the TT kit. I understand what that does and admire it! After two Buells (I still have one) all three of my American V-twins now have three stabilizers each. It's the only way to travel!
I have the original Harley HID conversion kit. The low beam is very wide, but the high beam is useless, even with a 100watt bulb in it. I don't recommend it! Go to HDF sponsor Motorcycle Metal where they sell a conversion kit which gets good reviews.
The swingarm is mounted off the rear of the transmission case. My understanding of the StaBo bushes is that they replace the flexible cleve blocks, but I have my doubts about them improving lateral movement in the rear rubber mounts to the chassis. That is why I bought the TT kit. I understand what that does and admire it! After two Buells (I still have one) all three of my American V-twins now have three stabilizers each. It's the only way to travel!
#779
The stabo replaces all of the bushings/bearings with a machined block of derlin, and has poly mounts on the outside. I had a few other ideas for what I wanted to do, but think I will just go this route. If it is an issue, I will fab up a heim to keep the motor centered. I have done a few swingarm swaps back in my sport bike days. I used to club race and had an old 89 CBR 600 that I did an f3 rear swingarm and front suspension on, that required some serious fab work. I have seriously considered just going with regular sealed bearings in the back and pressing them into the swingarm, and making new outside mount brackets with a captured bearing. I think all the braces that are sold are way overpriced for what they are, its 30 bucks in material to keep the motor from moving sideways.
As for the HID setup, I was thinking of cutting the housing where the high beam is, and putting my projector setup in there. That would be a true Hi/Low xenon, I have 2 sets of Hella projectors from BWM's. Then Stuff an amber bulb in the existing Low beam. Best of both worlds, Cept for the hacking up a $300.00 headlamp hehe.
As for the HID setup, I was thinking of cutting the housing where the high beam is, and putting my projector setup in there. That would be a true Hi/Low xenon, I have 2 sets of Hella projectors from BWM's. Then Stuff an amber bulb in the existing Low beam. Best of both worlds, Cept for the hacking up a $300.00 headlamp hehe.