The last dealer that pack my wheel bearings, was the last dealer I will ever let pack my wheel bearings. I was having tires put on, and figured, 'what the heck'. BTW this was the same dealer that dropped 'something' on my tank, chipping the clear coat. Then they had the audacity to ask if it was that way when I brought it in... Ehhhh...NOOOOOO...

Prior to this, and since this, I will not let anyone other than myself clean, pack, install wheel bearings.

It's just too simple a job to let some knucklehead do it for ya. I service the bearings anytime I replace tires.

 

Could someone describe how to check end play, please.
Do I need the dial indicator, as the manual describes, or is there an alternative?
And where to get the shims? Dealer or other?

 

I'll be checking mine tool

 

ive noticed on mine recently that at low speeds or if i rock the bike back and forth i hear a squeal or whine sound. i cant tell if its brake pads or wheel bearing. i had g/f listen for me since shes a little short and has hard time sitting and moving the bike. she said its in front. there is oily stain around the bearing area. im thinking i have a dry bearing or its getting ready to go bad. it has dual discs in front. can i clean and repack myself? should the rear be done at same time. i dont know if theyre stock wheels and the milage on them. tires still look good. but im thinking i should investigate and service them if needed, before its too late. is there any tricks to telling which it is bearings or brakes? im getting to know this bike with all the issues im discovering and correcting. but it would be nice not to worry so i can get some miles with it. safely i might add.

 

rockerrendell, if you see grease leaking at the bearing, then at a minimum your seal is shot and the bearing needs repacking. At that time, you can see if the bearing is shot too. Use only Genuine H.D. wheel bearing grease.

 

yea on the left side bearing is a greasy/oily looking staining/wetness. so how do i repack and replace bearing seals? ive rebuilt bicycles before and that includes repacking thier bearings but no seals. and of course if im doing one side im going to do the right side as well, correct? i havent been able to get me either one of the manuals hd or clymers yet. so any walk throughs are appreciated.

 

First off, you need the genuine H.D. manual. Get one from one of the online places that everyone buys from, like bikerbobsstore.com or whatever. You need that yesterday. Then, yeah, if you're going to do one bearing, you do both. Pick up some new seals at the dealer when you get the Genuine H.D. wheel bearing grease. Use no other grease.

Wheel bearing service is pretty easy to do. I suppose it would help if you have seen it done before, but here's the old school method:

Get the wheel off your bike. I'm going to let you figger that one out all by yourself.

Put the wheel on a piece of carpet or on an old tire to keep it from getting dirty/scratched. Take a seal puller tool and pry the seal out. A large screwdriver will work, but the seal pullers are like two bucks at HF. Lift the bearing out. Clean out the old grease from the hole. Knock off as much of the old grease from the bearing as you can with a rag. Clean out the rest of the old grease with: (pick one) a parts washer, brake/carb cleaner, soap water, whatever you can to get the old gunk out. The bearing should be completely clean. Blow the bearing dry with compressed air. Pancake air compressors are on sale at HF. I have a coupon for one for $40. Can't go wrong there. Anyway, when the bearing is dry and the hole/bearing race in the hole is clean and dry, inspect the bearing and race. If there are any marks on the race or the rollers, the bearing and race must be replaced. Put the bearing back in the race. Push down on it and turn it. It should be very smooth. If it isn't smooth, that is, if there is a rough spot it goes through, the bearing and race must be replaced. Replacing bearings is beyond the scope of this writeup. You need to get the old race out, and that takes a special tool.

Next, assuming the bearing is still good (and you do this to new bearings also), you need to pack the bearing. Using only Genuine H.D. Wheel Bearing Grease (accept no other), take a tablespoon or so and put it in the palm of your hand, cupped. Take the bearing in your other hand and force it against the grease, forcing the grease up into the bearing with your palm. Add more grease when you need to. When you are done, the bearing should be filled solid with blue Genuine H.D. Wheel Bearing Grease. It will be all inbetween the inner and outer parts and all around the rollers, with no air pockets. Put some grease in the wheel hole, put some grease on the race, put the bearing in the race. Put the new seal over the hole and drive it in with a seal driver (couple bucks at HF, or you can use an old shovelhead exhaust valve, which I'm sure everyone has laying around, or anything else round and about the same size as the seal.) Flip the wheel over and do the other side.

 

you make it sound really easy. im sure under good circumstances it is easy. i dont have any of the tools needed except most typical hand tools and since im a woodworker i do have a nice air compressor. i dont have any old valves laying around. now please excuse my ignorance, but why is the genuine hd manual better than one like clymers? i used a clymers with my sportster without any problems and theyre much more reasonibly priced. if i need to get one then i will get one. i dont like skimping or cutting corners on my harley. does anyone have any links to some pix to help me understand the procedures properly?

 

It really is very easy. You really don't need special tools for anything, just a good set of basic hand tools and a torque wrench.
For installing the seals I put them on by hand then LIGHTLY start them with a rubber mallet. When the seal is started and in the wheel square then I lay a small piece of wood over the seal and give the wood a couple of good taps until it is flush with the wheel.
Also when blowing out the bearings with air do not let them spin with the air as running them dry will ruin the bearing.

 

what im going to do is wipe the bearing area clean and see if the wetness returns. it was this way when i got the bike less than a month ago. im still getting to know the bike and its problems and straightening out anything i found to be incorrect or "mickey moused". i just had to replace stator and there is some smoking going on. i know a top end will be in its future. but thats not in budget at this moment and im taking care of the things i can and things that need attention first. and im gonna have to invest in a few special tools ive never had before like torque wrench. just got a bike jack yesterday.