EVO All Evo Model Discussion

dang!!! another problem

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  #11  
Old 06-09-2009, 09:55 PM
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does very much sound like the problem i had. the internal workings of the ignition switch melted.
 
  #12  
Old 06-10-2009, 02:57 AM
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Originally Posted by brwdarr
update: got bike back together and took it for a spin. about 8 miles down the road it cut off. pull it off the road and try to crank it and nothing. no lights or anything. after 10-20 seconds I notice I had cluster lights hit the switch and it crank. well I continue on to my grandson ball game and I got to thinking about my ign. switch. ther are 5 position. lock-off-ign-lights-acess. I decided I would ride home with the switch in the "lights" position. I didn't have any problem going home. I got back out and rode it around with switch in that position and still no problems. Is this a sign my ign. switch is bad? where should I have the switch at when riding? lights comes on with it in the ign position also, so I don't understand the reason for a "light" position.
There is a jumper wire between the ign and light circuit breakers in the dash - it was there from the factory. Running it in IGN postion has weakened the switch by the load of ign and lights being drawn thru only one set of contacts in the switch.

The switches are discontinued and a used one is probably weak in 1 or more positions. Last new one I saw sold for 285.00 on ebay.

You could improvise another type of switch, but you would have NO fork lock. Or, you could add relays under the seat to carry the load. Or, for now, simply run it in the Light position.
 
  #13  
Old 06-10-2009, 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by t150vej
There is a jumper wire between the ign and light circuit breakers in the dash - it was there from the factory. Running it in IGN postion has weakened the switch by the load of ign and lights being drawn thru only one set of contacts in the switch.

The switches are discontinued and a used one is probably weak in 1 or more positions. Last new one I saw sold for 285.00 on ebay.

You could improvise another type of switch, but you would have NO fork lock. Or, you could add relays under the seat to carry the load. Or, for now, simply run it in the Light position.

Can the switch be taken apart? Maybe cleaning the contacts and adding a little solder to them to build it up and repair the section?? Just reaching here, have no idea how its configured..

The relays sound like a great idea, you shouldnt have the problem again if you can eliminate the high curent flow through the switch.. I'd do this even if you just used the light position..
 
  #14  
Old 06-10-2009, 08:12 AM
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I went by the hd dealership and they said what ya have said, switch discontinue. just my luck. I'll run it in the lights position for a while and see what happens. I might add the relay if I can figure out how to wire it in. not that good with elect. thanks
 
  #15  
Old 06-10-2009, 12:19 PM
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Similar issue last year, turned out to be the coil.
 
  #16  
Old 06-11-2009, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by HGM
Can the switch be taken apart? Maybe cleaning the contacts and adding a little solder to them to build it up and repair the section?? Just reaching here, have no idea how its configured..

The relays sound like a great idea, you shouldnt have the problem again if you can eliminate the high curent flow through the switch.. I'd do this even if you just used the light position..
You can take apart the older and newer switches and once upon a time, you could even get parts for them -- maybe still can, but that style switch is cheap. The FLT switches in the 80's early 90's are sealed - molded and you'd have to saw them open, which is something I truly intend to do I ever I can get one cheap or free....

Wiring relays off the ignition switch is REAL easy and there is room for 3 under the seat - no problem. I only have 1 for ACC now, but will add 2 more later in the year. You have to remove the seat, tank, and dash and that's the hardest part, wiring it all in is easy.

So brwdarr whenever you want to tackle it and not today - I'm too tired, I'll be glad to draw up something or whatever to help you out on that...
 
  #17  
Old 06-11-2009, 03:46 PM
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I put my auxilliary starter relay under the seat, stopping The Dreaded Click. You can use the screw that holds the rear brake resivoir on to mount the relay.
 
  #18  
Old 06-11-2009, 03:51 PM
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thanks 50vej, I made need you to describe the process to me when you have time. I do have one question though. could running the bike in the ign. position just maybe trip out the breaker and not have damage the switch? I know from my owner manual the breakers will automaticaly reset and a few seconds. maybe the time it takes to pull off the road and restart it. thanks
 
  #19  
Old 06-11-2009, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by brwdarr
thanks 50vej, I made need you to describe the process to me when you have time. I do have one question though. could running the bike in the ign. position just maybe trip out the breaker and not have damage the switch? I know from my owner manual the breakers will automaticaly reset and a few seconds. maybe the time it takes to pull off the road and restart it. thanks
YES, as a matter of fact, it can. I was thinking of that yesterday at work and it slipped my feeble mind by the time I got back today.

I'd still lay odds it's the switch, but replacing the breaker is cheap and easy insurance.

And Hess - the M/C screw is exactly where I mounted mine
 
  #20  
Old 06-11-2009, 04:18 PM
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Yes it could trip out the breaker, replacing it isn't very expensive. Make sure to clean and tighten all the contacts from the battery ,to and from the ignition and grounds as well. Go to a Radio Shack and get some contact cleaner/lubricant and spray the switch. Hope this helps.
 


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