dang!!! another problem
#12
update: got bike back together and took it for a spin. about 8 miles down the road it cut off. pull it off the road and try to crank it and nothing. no lights or anything. after 10-20 seconds I notice I had cluster lights hit the switch and it crank. well I continue on to my grandson ball game and I got to thinking about my ign. switch. ther are 5 position. lock-off-ign-lights-acess. I decided I would ride home with the switch in the "lights" position. I didn't have any problem going home. I got back out and rode it around with switch in that position and still no problems. Is this a sign my ign. switch is bad? where should I have the switch at when riding? lights comes on with it in the ign position also, so I don't understand the reason for a "light" position.
The switches are discontinued and a used one is probably weak in 1 or more positions. Last new one I saw sold for 285.00 on ebay.
You could improvise another type of switch, but you would have NO fork lock. Or, you could add relays under the seat to carry the load. Or, for now, simply run it in the Light position.
#13
There is a jumper wire between the ign and light circuit breakers in the dash - it was there from the factory. Running it in IGN postion has weakened the switch by the load of ign and lights being drawn thru only one set of contacts in the switch.
The switches are discontinued and a used one is probably weak in 1 or more positions. Last new one I saw sold for 285.00 on ebay.
You could improvise another type of switch, but you would have NO fork lock. Or, you could add relays under the seat to carry the load. Or, for now, simply run it in the Light position.
The switches are discontinued and a used one is probably weak in 1 or more positions. Last new one I saw sold for 285.00 on ebay.
You could improvise another type of switch, but you would have NO fork lock. Or, you could add relays under the seat to carry the load. Or, for now, simply run it in the Light position.
Can the switch be taken apart? Maybe cleaning the contacts and adding a little solder to them to build it up and repair the section?? Just reaching here, have no idea how its configured..
The relays sound like a great idea, you shouldnt have the problem again if you can eliminate the high curent flow through the switch.. I'd do this even if you just used the light position..
#14
#16
Can the switch be taken apart? Maybe cleaning the contacts and adding a little solder to them to build it up and repair the section?? Just reaching here, have no idea how its configured..
The relays sound like a great idea, you shouldnt have the problem again if you can eliminate the high curent flow through the switch.. I'd do this even if you just used the light position..
The relays sound like a great idea, you shouldnt have the problem again if you can eliminate the high curent flow through the switch.. I'd do this even if you just used the light position..
Wiring relays off the ignition switch is REAL easy and there is room for 3 under the seat - no problem. I only have 1 for ACC now, but will add 2 more later in the year. You have to remove the seat, tank, and dash and that's the hardest part, wiring it all in is easy.
So brwdarr whenever you want to tackle it and not today - I'm too tired, I'll be glad to draw up something or whatever to help you out on that...
#17
#18
thanks 50vej, I made need you to describe the process to me when you have time. I do have one question though. could running the bike in the ign. position just maybe trip out the breaker and not have damage the switch? I know from my owner manual the breakers will automaticaly reset and a few seconds. maybe the time it takes to pull off the road and restart it. thanks
#19
thanks 50vej, I made need you to describe the process to me when you have time. I do have one question though. could running the bike in the ign. position just maybe trip out the breaker and not have damage the switch? I know from my owner manual the breakers will automaticaly reset and a few seconds. maybe the time it takes to pull off the road and restart it. thanks
I'd still lay odds it's the switch, but replacing the breaker is cheap and easy insurance.
And Hess - the M/C screw is exactly where I mounted mine