View Poll Results: Have you used a Crane HI-4 or Dyna 2Ki and had one fail?
I have, or am currently using a Crane HI-4 ignition
15
57.69%
I have had a failure with a Crane HI-4
3
11.54%
I have, or am currently running a Dyna 2KI (or Ultima) ignition
9
34.62%
I have had a failure with a Dyna 2Ki or Ultima ignition
1
3.85%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 26. You may not vote on this poll
CRANE HI-4 verses DYNA2Ki (or) ULTIMA IGN
#41
Perhaps. You're not reading the usb voltages, are you? Those operate on a completely different spec, 0 to 5 volts, at a much higher frequency than rs-232. But it doesn't matter, if you've got data being sent both directions (meaning you're able to read back the internal data from the ignition module), then you did it correctly, and I wouldn't modify your circuit again.
If you have a working cable, it sounds like the official high prices cable won't fix your problems. It'll be the same version of software you've already downloaded, with a cable that, while implemented more robustly with fewer hacks, will perform exactly the same as the one you've built.
Try this instead. You're running Vista, correct? (This suggestion will work fine with windows 7 as well). Right click on the curvemaker application, either in your startment or in the installation directory and select properties. On the pop up menu, you should see a Compatibility tab. Click the check box for "Run in compatibility mode for:", and select Windows XP from the drop down box. It doesn't matter which service pack.
If that works, GREAT! If not, keep going through the list and try the other service packs, followed by the other versions. One of them is bound to work the way you expect it to. Good luck.
It has successfully programmed my ignition module, though the Curvemaker software locked up. Turns out, this lockup is actually a "successful send". I'm guessing now that the software doesn't like Vista very much. I can download diagnostics just fine, and send curves, it just locks up on a successful send, is all. I don't like that. I'll be ordering the cable in time, but for now this got my ignition programmed. Thank you for your input and explanations! -Lee-
Try this instead. You're running Vista, correct? (This suggestion will work fine with windows 7 as well). Right click on the curvemaker application, either in your startment or in the installation directory and select properties. On the pop up menu, you should see a Compatibility tab. Click the check box for "Run in compatibility mode for:", and select Windows XP from the drop down box. It doesn't matter which service pack.
If that works, GREAT! If not, keep going through the list and try the other service packs, followed by the other versions. One of them is bound to work the way you expect it to. Good luck.
#42
#43
#44
it worked good
Since you were asking for the pinout and if anybody else wants it, here's the circuit and made to program my ultima ignition. Costs about $2 in parts.
First, here's my disclaimer:
most of the parts should be available at any electronics store. I actually ended up using a 2N3904 instead of the transistor I listed above. Any reasonable NPN BJT should work fine. And for the resisters, they don't need to be exact, either. Anything close should be fine. You also can see that you don't need a pull up resister on that final output that connects to voes line because the voes port on the programmer has its own built in pull up resister of 1k ohms. But you can add one if it gives you a warm and fuzzy or makes your circuit easier to test before clipping it on your bike.
It should end up looking like this:
And again, download the hd curvemaker software and manuals here:
http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/downloads/
Happy hacking.
Thanks to my friend anton, pajoe, and t150vej for helping me get the information I needed to put this together.
First, here's my disclaimer:
I have no interest in making more of these and marketing them. Dyna/Ultima is doing that fine. I made one for myself, and I'm satisfied with that. I also take no responsibility for damage to your computer or your bike if you try this and it doesn't work. if you're not comfortable building circuits, get help from somebody (not me) who is.
Build this circuit:most of the parts should be available at any electronics store. I actually ended up using a 2N3904 instead of the transistor I listed above. Any reasonable NPN BJT should work fine. And for the resisters, they don't need to be exact, either. Anything close should be fine. You also can see that you don't need a pull up resister on that final output that connects to voes line because the voes port on the programmer has its own built in pull up resister of 1k ohms. But you can add one if it gives you a warm and fuzzy or makes your circuit easier to test before clipping it on your bike.
It should end up looking like this:
And again, download the hd curvemaker software and manuals here:
http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/downloads/
Happy hacking.
Thanks to my friend anton, pajoe, and t150vej for helping me get the information I needed to put this together.
#45
I can't say anything about the crane but I have had the Ultima programmable and the programming hook ups for quite some time on my slightly modified 89 EVO and it has been flawless. I would like to learn the programming part of
the package but there doesnt seem to be much on tech tips or how tos available, well other than how to wire the plug to the bike and opening software in computer.
the package but there doesnt seem to be much on tech tips or how tos available, well other than how to wire the plug to the bike and opening software in computer.
#46
The average customer isn't going to be interested in putting together a custom curve. Without a dyno, there's not much chance of getting it right.
Somebody might find it useful to shift the whole curve a little bit, rather than physically turning the device to set timing, but this is more than likely a mistake, since you can't shift the first inflection point.
I don't know of any reason somebody would want to change the angle of the rear cylinder. I thought this may help my issue since I had a warped right casing, so if I set the front cylinder, my rear was off slightly. But while adjusting it in the programmer worked only for low RPMs and made things worse at high RPMs, so I ended up removing the case and fixing the warp issue instead.
Reducing the dead-cranking revs is very useful for kick starters.
And the information the reader stores on time at wide open throttle and max RPM is useful enough.
I think that's about it, right? Or at least that's all the nuggets of "wisdom" I have on the programming question.
#47
For the Ultima/Dyna I would like to see:
- Other peoples advance curves! I have smoothed out one of the standard ones for my setup
- Has anyone used the two curves switching via the vacuum switch
- Has anyone tried the boost retard switch function and did it work? AND how the heck do yah tell anyway. I'm bloody interested in this function.
- I tried the rear cylinder offset but only for one trip...i can see how it would make a cylinder run cooler but did not notice any change - perhasp it was too subtle for me.
cheers
- Other peoples advance curves! I have smoothed out one of the standard ones for my setup
- Has anyone used the two curves switching via the vacuum switch
- Has anyone tried the boost retard switch function and did it work? AND how the heck do yah tell anyway. I'm bloody interested in this function.
- I tried the rear cylinder offset but only for one trip...i can see how it would make a cylinder run cooler but did not notice any change - perhasp it was too subtle for me.
cheers
Last edited by GraemeR; 07-23-2012 at 05:44 PM.
#48
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