UPDATE I now have all videos of my primary
#1
UPDATE I now have all videos of my primary
Tried to delete the old thred` but when i click on UserCP it dont show me my post .. Oh well ..
Here is an up date with all videos of teardown ..
http://www.youtube.com/user/OpryStation
Need you guys to tell me what i need to do next. I got the 1985 FLHT with the lower engine noise on the shift side.
Just bought this last fall and i herd some engine noise first time it warmed up.
Sounds like marbles in a coffee can if you made them spin in a circle.. I was riding about 45mph just to test it out and all of a sudden i got a instant vibration like a stone got stuck in my tire. I eased it on home and im only now getting to tinker on it. Some guys here told me it was the primary chain and some said the comp sprocket.. See my videos on youtube that i just put up today especialy for you guys to see. Big Thanks for any help you can share.. my video link is http://www.youtube.com/user/OpryStation
Here is an up date with all videos of teardown ..
http://www.youtube.com/user/OpryStation
Need you guys to tell me what i need to do next. I got the 1985 FLHT with the lower engine noise on the shift side.
Just bought this last fall and i herd some engine noise first time it warmed up.
Sounds like marbles in a coffee can if you made them spin in a circle.. I was riding about 45mph just to test it out and all of a sudden i got a instant vibration like a stone got stuck in my tire. I eased it on home and im only now getting to tinker on it. Some guys here told me it was the primary chain and some said the comp sprocket.. See my videos on youtube that i just put up today especialy for you guys to see. Big Thanks for any help you can share.. my video link is http://www.youtube.com/user/OpryStation
#2
Anything for the transmission mainshaft and clutch/hub assembly will be for a '90-'97 with the exception of whatever is different with the Rivera clutch setup.
Everything else will be for your year model bike.
Somebody correct me if I'm mistaken - seems the '84 and early '85's had a slightly different spacing of the primary chain gear on the basket. If so, you'll need to measure that spacing and shim your compensator sprocket accordingly upon reassembly.
Everything else will be for your year model bike.
Somebody correct me if I'm mistaken - seems the '84 and early '85's had a slightly different spacing of the primary chain gear on the basket. If so, you'll need to measure that spacing and shim your compensator sprocket accordingly upon reassembly.
#3
OK good you don't have to pull the inner primary. When you remove the alternator it should come off fairly easy. It is when putting it back on that it has the propensity to really take off and smash your fingers, so taking off is ok putting back on be real careful. Also don't let it slip out of you hands/fingers when removing.
Material may be from the drain plug magnet.....but it is easy enough to remove and inspect the stator and since you are this far you just as well do it...
BE REAL CAREFUL and save your fingers. Clean any loose material out and you should be good to go.
Be glad you don't have to pull the inner primary.
Material may be from the drain plug magnet.....but it is easy enough to remove and inspect the stator and since you are this far you just as well do it...
BE REAL CAREFUL and save your fingers. Clean any loose material out and you should be good to go.
Be glad you don't have to pull the inner primary.
#4
#5
I redid my clutch a couple years ago. I didn't have any problem getting stuff at the dealer. They had to look it up and special order it, but it came in a week or so. Near as I can tell, your bike has the same clutch as mine. I only replaced the parts because I was in there for an oil leak and the clutch material measured at the minimum acceptable thickness at 65K miles. My notes say I used a Screaming Eagle clutch and HD plates, and I spent three bills, including a new transmission support bearing and seals. I also replaced the shifter bushing in the inner primary with one I fabbed from Delrin while I had it off, thus solving the rattle from the junk bushing they put in there 19 years before.
#6
Pretty much, yes. The mainshaft is the later style. Many people do that as the original tapered shafts had a problem of cracking the hub and few, if any companys offer the original shaft. Changing the shaft out is a major job so...
Here's how the major changes went in this entire area:
1984 1/2 went from dry clutch to wet. 84 1/2 to 86 had the external lever release type transmission arrangement.
As far as the wet clutchs, 84 1/2 to 89 - tapered shaft. Then, 90 to 94 has a totally different mainshaft (will fit trans, but splined rather than tapered), hub and basket all together. Something else minor changed with factory stuff from 94 thru 97 but I'm not sure exactly what.
The spline shaft is preferred deal for most people and since you already have it...
Look for stock stuff for a 90 - 94. I checked a couple books and looks like around 700.00 - 800.00 for complete setup. But DO look around and price shop, I've not researched very far.
Here's how the major changes went in this entire area:
1984 1/2 went from dry clutch to wet. 84 1/2 to 86 had the external lever release type transmission arrangement.
As far as the wet clutchs, 84 1/2 to 89 - tapered shaft. Then, 90 to 94 has a totally different mainshaft (will fit trans, but splined rather than tapered), hub and basket all together. Something else minor changed with factory stuff from 94 thru 97 but I'm not sure exactly what.
The spline shaft is preferred deal for most people and since you already have it...
Look for stock stuff for a 90 - 94. I checked a couple books and looks like around 700.00 - 800.00 for complete setup. But DO look around and price shop, I've not researched very far.
Last edited by t150vej; 02-17-2009 at 06:49 PM.
#7
I redid my clutch a couple years ago. I didn't have any problem getting stuff at the dealer. They had to look it up and special order it, but it came in a week or so. Near as I can tell, your bike has the same clutch as mine. I only replaced the parts because I was in there for an oil leak and the clutch material measured at the minimum acceptable thickness at 65K miles. My notes say I used a Screaming Eagle clutch and HD plates, and I spent three bills, including a new transmission support bearing and seals. I also replaced the shifter bushing in the inner primary with one I fabbed from Delrin while I had it off, thus solving the rattle from the junk bushing they put in there 19 years before.
Dr.Hess:
Someone put a spline shaft in his trans. Check his videos....
also, the different spacing I mentioned earlier was for the starter ring spacing, so I was informed Shouldn't be an issue.......
Last edited by t150vej; 02-17-2009 at 06:54 PM.
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#8
#9
#10
Yes, replace the starter drive gear.
The "flywheel" you removed is the rotor for the alternator; those segments on the inside of it are the magnets that "excite" the stator which is still bolted onto you engine (unless you have removed that since your last video).
I have heard many good things about the Rivera Pro clutch which I think is what you have there. I would be inclined to replace that stud and bearing you suspect (the one with the blue side shields). You will need a press or maybe have a shop do it if you are not experienced with pressing in bearings (you don't want to damage the new bearing while installing it and MIGHT be why that one failed).
I have a Barnett Scorpion clutch which is of similar construct and possibly uses the very same bearing as your Rivera. I got two spares off ebay for about $15 each just in case I need 'em in the future (I always try to plan ahead).
If your chain looks good, I'd clean it up (metal shavings) and reuse it.
For the chain case gasket, you could use a thin coat of Hylomar on each side of it and it'll probably seal up without issue. If you don't have, or don't want to use Hylomar, then silicone sealer will work too but you probably won't be able to use the gasket again as it'll most likely get torn up the next time you are in there.
Whatever you do, I hope it all works out well for you.
Oh yeah, that puller you used to remove the clutch assembly will damage that bearing too. You need a puller that attaches to the center piece of the clutch hub/shell assy. That bearing is not designed for side (axial) loads.
Also, as someone else said, that may have been the wrong drain plug installed in your primary for the clutch to be able to chew on it.
The "flywheel" you removed is the rotor for the alternator; those segments on the inside of it are the magnets that "excite" the stator which is still bolted onto you engine (unless you have removed that since your last video).
I have heard many good things about the Rivera Pro clutch which I think is what you have there. I would be inclined to replace that stud and bearing you suspect (the one with the blue side shields). You will need a press or maybe have a shop do it if you are not experienced with pressing in bearings (you don't want to damage the new bearing while installing it and MIGHT be why that one failed).
I have a Barnett Scorpion clutch which is of similar construct and possibly uses the very same bearing as your Rivera. I got two spares off ebay for about $15 each just in case I need 'em in the future (I always try to plan ahead).
If your chain looks good, I'd clean it up (metal shavings) and reuse it.
For the chain case gasket, you could use a thin coat of Hylomar on each side of it and it'll probably seal up without issue. If you don't have, or don't want to use Hylomar, then silicone sealer will work too but you probably won't be able to use the gasket again as it'll most likely get torn up the next time you are in there.
Whatever you do, I hope it all works out well for you.
Oh yeah, that puller you used to remove the clutch assembly will damage that bearing too. You need a puller that attaches to the center piece of the clutch hub/shell assy. That bearing is not designed for side (axial) loads.
Also, as someone else said, that may have been the wrong drain plug installed in your primary for the clutch to be able to chew on it.
Last edited by megawatt; 02-18-2009 at 12:15 AM.