So today I ride to work, 12 miles one way with no issues and on the way home the check engine light goes on and stays on 10 to 15 seconds and goes off it stayed off for 10 seconds and it did it again and again for 10 to 15 seconds. She's never in 7 years done that before. She had been on a jack for 3 weeks with the *** end down and the forks up while I waited for the new fender to be painted and striped. I got a new 21" wire rim. Any thoughts?

 

Try this: it worked on my 97 ultra.. . A 1998 road king classic with fuel inj. you can read the codes doing the
following: with switch on run
1-turn ignition key switch to ignition and then turn off 1 second after fuel
pump stops.
2.repeat #1 again..remember 1 second after pump stops
3.turn ignition key switch to ignition and wait about 8 seconds for a bunch of
flashing of the check engine light
it will then stop for 2 seconds..get ready... these are the codes you must
count:
it will slowly flash 1,2,3,5....there is NO 4....this is the first digit of the
2 digit code ..so it can only be 1,2,3,5 __ __
then a 2 second pause...then you will get second digit of the 2 digit code..it
can only be 1,2,3,4,5,6
remember after the complete 2 digit code is given you will go back to the rapid
flash sequence..
there are a total of 15 codes available with this procedure
examples
52,53,54,55 bad news ECM replacement
56 crank/cam sensor
11 throttle sensor
12 barometric
23 and 32 are injectors front/rear
24 coil
33 fuel pump relayin this case you would not hear the pump but instead waited 3
seconds after the on / off sequence
*
in order to erase any codes you must disconnect the battery or wait for 50 on
and off riding cycles

 

hawghead thanks for gettin back to me, I check it out tonight and see what codes come up. Looks like I better pay attention to the prewarning.

 

hawg head had some time this morning so did what you said,
put it in run mode and turned the ignition switch on and turned it off after 1 second after the fuel pump went off and repeated as said then on the 3rd time did it again and waited and waited and I got nothing, no flashing or anything. Will try it again tonight. Thanks for the chime in.

 

A '97 Ultra may not have this feature; I think they became more prominent after '98, but sounds like you do have this feature. What you describe is a "history code" meaning something tripped the trouble code but is not an on-going condition; in other words, the bike is running fine but something happened along the way to make it go "hmmm?". What you will probably see is the two-digit "scanilyzer" codes (what HawgHead describes). Following is "how to" enter diagnostic mode and functions and how to clear history codes:

Engine Light function: Normal operation=light comes on for four seconds after IGN SW on, then goes out if no present DTC. DTC in History=light comes on for four seconds after IGN SW on, then goes out, then comes on for eight seconds, then goes out. Current DTC=Engine light stays on after IGN SW on indicating current fault (note: some codes will only trip at engine run such as CKP)

The ECM is capable of displaying scanilyzer DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes). The scanilyzer is the diagnostic tool used at the dealer to troubleshoot the electrical system (similar to the digital technician for '03 and up bikes but less "versatile").

Speedometer Self Diagnostics: The speedometer is capable of displaying and clearing
speedometer, tachometer, TSM/TSSM and ICM/ECM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC).
1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to RUN {although my '01 XL will enter mode either way but better safe than sorry!}.
2- Push odometer reset button in & hold while turning ignition switch to ON. Background lighting for the odometer should illuminate, speedometer needle MAY sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) MAY illuminate. "MAY" meaning not to worry if it doesn't but you will hear a "buzz" from the speedo in any case. The word “diag” should then appear.
4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "d01clr"
if no code is present or "D01" and a two-digit number for a code present such as "d0153" for the ECM re-flash error for example.
5 - Write down on paper any codes then press and hold the odometer reset button to clear{*see NOTE2 below}.
6-Press odometer reset to go to "d02" and repeat. There is 11 different codes (d01-11) which do not correspond to any particular component; this is just a list of any codes stored. The two-digit code as described will correspond to a particular problem is all. A code for a particular component does not even necesarily mean the component is BAD but that further diagnosis is warranted. Diagnosis procedures will be listed in the Electrical Diagnosis Manual for the model/year of your bike. Last display will read "PPU" then a 5-digit number which I believe may be the ECM part number (but not 100% on this). In any case, this is not a DTC!
7-Any trouble codes present are as listed in HawgHeads post.

NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by
pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until
'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch.
Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to
9. If the code is current it will reappear.

*"NOTE2" FOR ITEM 4: DON'T KNOW FOR SURE IF YOU CAN CLEAR A HISTORY CODE THIS WAY AS '04 AND UP BIKES WITH DIFFERENT {DIGITAL TECHNICIAN} DIAGNOSTICS. IF IT DOES NOT CLEAR, YOU CAN EITHER HAVE IT CLEARED BY THE DEALER USING THE SCANILYZER, OR IT WILL "SELF-CLEAR" AFTER XX (55 TIMES?) AMOUNT OF IGNITION SWITCH CYCLES.

Anyone reading: If any of this is incorrect, please correct me as I had to write this over my DT-II "how-to" for different scanilyzer procedure and I'm not sensitive about being corrected {hate to give out wrong info}!

 

Oops, found one already: in the first NOTE part: "If the code is current it will reappear." is incorrect. Some codes will only trip when the bike is running, such as CKP or CMP sensors. You have to start the bike for about 30-seconds and if code is current, it will reappear. OK, I'll shut up now LOL

 

if bike farted, burped, backfired during start-up you could get a code #56 crank/cam sensor.
if you are fuel injected and have some goo melting out the bottom of "timer cone" right floor board bottom..were your ankle would be..then the cam position sensor is starting to melt away..

 

most times it is a hiccup...but may wish to do an external visual quick check

 

I just went through this process on my 08 RKC. While I didn't see exactly what you stated - I was able to clear the engine light coming on after start up.

In my case, I think it had something to do with me installing new grips. So I cleared everything and the light went off... :-)

Gracias!

David

 

Hey know what it was, with the light coming on? I had a loose cable to the battery. What happened was I went to the mechanic, thinking he would have a code reader, but he didn't so he said go to the dealer but I didn't have time so I went to work and home, no problem and no light, but the following day I go to fire her up and she cranked but no fire tried it couple of time but nothing. Started with checking the battery cables and sure enough 1 was loose, I tightened it up and put the battery tender on it over night and in the morning she was running like just fine. Haven't had the light come on again or anything. All has been good.