- hi.

- have found that on my '96 FLSTC , am running out of threads on my clutch cable adjuster even after adjusting the clutch (the threaded rod in clutch basket) as per the manual.

- [ ie , collapsing the clutch cable adjuster , and then adjusting the threaded rod on the clutch basket , and then adjusting the clutch cable adjuster to try to get the 1/8 inch gap at the clutch lever ..... ]

- is this an indication that my clutch plates are gone ?

.

- second, have been quoted a list of clutch parts for the purpose of rebuilding the clutch (which I intend to DIY), and they are :

. 37908-90 Circlip

· 37977-90 Clutch Spring Plate

· 37911-90 (8pcs) Paper Friction Plate

· 37913-90 (6pcs) Clutch Plate


- question : is it necessary to replace ALL those parts ? I thought that its just the friction plates (the 8 pcs) and (maybe) , the clutch plates ?

- thanks !!

.

 

The older wet clutch setup (84-90) was that way - typically never changed the steel plates and there was no spring plate in the center. Just replaced the friction discs and good-to-go. Or you could even "add" a steel plate in the back to get the adjustment back to normal if the friction discs measured out OK.

But all that changed in '90 - though it looks similar, it's a totally different animal with no diaphram adjustment, only free play adjustment. So, speaking out of ignorance (by definition) I'd replace everything if it were mine. (but I am guessing that since it's not dragging(?) you might get away without replacing the spring plate)

Maybe somebody else will reply who has a experience with the later set-ups like yours.

 

2 Words, Rivera Primo....

 

If it is not slipping,and the primary oil is not full of clutch material,I would adjust it correctly and keep going.After the eason is over then tear into it and replace what needs replacing it should be obvious.Good Luck

 

Sounds like the way to go to me... +1

 

- hi.

- thanks for the advice. Its not slipping and the primary fluid
is clear. Shifts and finds neutral easily too.

- is it possible that the clutch cable is "over" stretched ?

thanks !

.

 

No the cable should not stretch at all.Did you make the adjustment at the clutch pressure plate first,with the cable adjustment backed completely off?

 

I had issues with mine and replaced only the friction plates. Then i used this method to adjust the clutch.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/primary-transmission-driveline-clutch/6372-clutch-adjustment-the-easy-way.html

This method seemed to use alot less cable adjustment. I've had to replace my clutch cable before due to stretching. This was prior to clutch change. Adjuster on the cable was pretty much used up.

The above method you loosen the cable adjuster just until it hits the grip, turn the clutch rod adjuster in until you feel movement on the lever. Then do 1/2 more in and lock it down. Then adjust lever back to spec.

 

- hi !

- thanks for the links , and I used both methods to adjust the
clutch , and still , not enough threads on the cable adjuster.

- after you replaced your clutch cable , was there enough on
the adjuster ?

- as my clutch is working fine , not slipping or anything , am
guessing/hoping that it may just be an overstretched cable ..

thanks.

.

 

You said you used "both" methods?... maybe I overlooked a post, but the correct way (according to the book) is to:

Collapse the cable adjustment all the way. Then, loosen the locknut on the center adjustment screw on the clutch. Tighten the screw until you feel it touch, then back it off 1/2 turn, tighten locknut and re-adjust cable adjuster for 1/8" freeplay at the lever.

If you're still out of cable adjustment, the cable is breaking strands and will likely fail soon. (Or the throwout bearing is gone - though that's rare)

Keep us posted