Leaking Oil After A Hard Ride
#11
#12
RE: Leaking Oil After A Hard Ride
Are you sure it is your tranny and not the primary. If it is the tranny are you hearing a little rattling? This would be the main shaft bolt in the tranny, which happened to mine. Easy fix. But does take time.
Is it just a little oil or allot.
Can you tell which side the oil is coming from near your front sprocket?
Did you check your primary and tranny oil?
Is it just a little oil or allot.
Can you tell which side the oil is coming from near your front sprocket?
Did you check your primary and tranny oil?
#14
RE: Leaking Oil After A Hard Ride
I still do not know where your leak is. Leakingdown the side of the primary that faces the bike, does it mean the primary seal or the tranny seal.
A couple of drops should not stop you. Have you cleaned the oil and ridden the bike to see how bad it is?
If it is the primary seal no big deal. If it is the tranny sealit is a little more work.
A couple of drops should not stop you. Have you cleaned the oil and ridden the bike to see how bad it is?
If it is the primary seal no big deal. If it is the tranny sealit is a little more work.
#15
RE: Leaking Oil After A Hard Ride
Pls excuse my ignorance. I didn't say everything I found.
On the bike lift, I looked high and low with a mirror and the bike does not leak until it moves. I had it on the lift for 45 minutes at 100 rpms, nothing. So I gave up and said I'll move it to it's parking spot in the garage and shifting it into 1st and doing the K turn thing a few times and then after I parked it, about 6 drops. Directly above the primary drain screw, until I can't see it anymore with the flashlight and the mirror. It's does not leak anywhere else everyone has mentioned.
I'm pretty good with a wrench but don't want to buy HD tools if it's need to do the job.
Thanks for all the previous comments, just one or two more will set me on my way.
On the bike lift, I looked high and low with a mirror and the bike does not leak until it moves. I had it on the lift for 45 minutes at 100 rpms, nothing. So I gave up and said I'll move it to it's parking spot in the garage and shifting it into 1st and doing the K turn thing a few times and then after I parked it, about 6 drops. Directly above the primary drain screw, until I can't see it anymore with the flashlight and the mirror. It's does not leak anywhere else everyone has mentioned.
I'm pretty good with a wrench but don't want to buy HD tools if it's need to do the job.
Thanks for all the previous comments, just one or two more will set me on my way.
#16
RE: Leaking Oil After A Hard Ride
I think you need a tool for the clutch. Other than that go on in. Leave the bike the way it is now so that you can see where the leak is coming from after you take it apart.
Before taking it apart you might want to check to see if your tranny or primary may be overfilled. That not being the case you need to see which seal is bad. If it is the mainshaft seal and the nut came loose as it may be. pm me and I will give you a easy fix short of replacing the main shaft due to the threads being shot.
As far as what the dealer will charge, sit down b4 getting a quote.
Parts needed; Clutch tool ( I am not familuar with you clutch )
Primary to motor O ring gasket.
Primary seal for the main shaft.
All other seals and gaskets can be reused.
I do not see a reason to replace the starter seal.
Have fun with your day job fixing the bike and remember to tighten things with your wrist and not your arm if not using a torque wrench.It is aluminum not cast iron. One more thing you will need purple lock tight, not the blue.
Read your manual, thecrank sprocket nut is a left hand thread. If your torque wrench is a clicker type make sure that it also works with left hand threads or you may over tighten it my mistake. ( I made that mistake once I had to use my old dial bar torque wrench for the LHT)
Before taking it apart you might want to check to see if your tranny or primary may be overfilled. That not being the case you need to see which seal is bad. If it is the mainshaft seal and the nut came loose as it may be. pm me and I will give you a easy fix short of replacing the main shaft due to the threads being shot.
As far as what the dealer will charge, sit down b4 getting a quote.
Parts needed; Clutch tool ( I am not familuar with you clutch )
Primary to motor O ring gasket.
Primary seal for the main shaft.
All other seals and gaskets can be reused.
I do not see a reason to replace the starter seal.
Have fun with your day job fixing the bike and remember to tighten things with your wrist and not your arm if not using a torque wrench.It is aluminum not cast iron. One more thing you will need purple lock tight, not the blue.
Read your manual, thecrank sprocket nut is a left hand thread. If your torque wrench is a clicker type make sure that it also works with left hand threads or you may over tighten it my mistake. ( I made that mistake once I had to use my old dial bar torque wrench for the LHT)
#17
RE: Leaking Oil After A Hard Ride
If it is the transmission seal you will need several special tools, the removal/installation tool for the bearing on the output shaft, and the socket to remove the nut that holds the front belt pulley on.
Note: The crank nut is NOT left hand thread, I repeat NOT left hand thread- the nut on the clutch is left hand thread. Check your manual. Good luck.
Note: The crank nut is NOT left hand thread, I repeat NOT left hand thread- the nut on the clutch is left hand thread. Check your manual. Good luck.
#18
RE: Leaking Oil After A Hard Ride
So, why would your engine oil be going down if it was a tranny or primary leak???? Did you wash the bike before hand or recently before the ride? Just a couple of thoughts from what I have run into. After the cam and pistons were installed in my bike, it developed the tendancy to blow more oil out of the breathers. Since I have the SE filter, it now drips down in front of the engine and can make a bit of a mess after a long hi RPM ride. If the trans vent is aimed in a direction that can collect water, by washing or rain water on the road, it will kind of overfill the trans (with water) and when you ride it, as the fluid level grows, it will leak from the area you are talking about. Happened to my Dyna, might be worth checking the trans level before doing anything else..
Got a blanket question for you though... It seems that everyone else is good with it too, but I'm curious why you would run 20-50 in all three holes?? It seems that it would be too thick.. I'm a car guy, by trade, and would never think of running a heavy oil in a manual reansmission because of engagement concerns. Also, why would the primary need a thick oil to lube the chain? Seems to me that an ATF would be a better choice for the trans and primary... Its a little off subject, but I'm just curious, plus, you'd be able to tell what was leaking..
Got a blanket question for you though... It seems that everyone else is good with it too, but I'm curious why you would run 20-50 in all three holes?? It seems that it would be too thick.. I'm a car guy, by trade, and would never think of running a heavy oil in a manual reansmission because of engagement concerns. Also, why would the primary need a thick oil to lube the chain? Seems to me that an ATF would be a better choice for the trans and primary... Its a little off subject, but I'm just curious, plus, you'd be able to tell what was leaking..
#19
RE: Leaking Oil After A Hard Ride
ORIGINAL: Dan89FLSTC
Note: The crank nut is NOT left hand thread, I repeat NOT left hand thread- the nut on the clutch is left hand thread. Check your manual. Good luck.
Note: The crank nut is NOT left hand thread, I repeat NOT left hand thread- the nut on the clutch is left hand thread. Check your manual. Good luck.
#20
RE: Leaking Oil After A Hard Ride
ORIGINAL: HGM
Got a blanket question for you though... It seems that everyone else is good with it too, but I'm curious why you would run 20-50 in all three holes?? It seems that it would be too thick.. I'm a car guy, by trade, and would never think of running a heavy oil in a manual reansmission because of engagement concerns. Also, why would the primary need a thick oil to lube the chain? Seems to me that an ATF would be a better choice for the trans and primary... Its a little off subject, but I'm just curious, plus, you'd be able to tell what was leaking..
Got a blanket question for you though... It seems that everyone else is good with it too, but I'm curious why you would run 20-50 in all three holes?? It seems that it would be too thick.. I'm a car guy, by trade, and would never think of running a heavy oil in a manual reansmission because of engagement concerns. Also, why would the primary need a thick oil to lube the chain? Seems to me that an ATF would be a better choice for the trans and primary... Its a little off subject, but I'm just curious, plus, you'd be able to tell what was leaking..