Yeah, from the back they are not perfectly straight so I'm going to mess with them more, but I wanted to take a ride and hear how they sound.

Sound level is perfect for what I wanted. Nice loping idle and some hotrod flavor when you twist it. I'm really happy with how they look and sound. I really appreciate you guys pushing me to keep trying to work it out.

Thanks!

 

On to my rattle(s)... I had the sensation that rattling was coming from all over, because it was. In changing out the exhaust, I found quite a few loose nuts and that is all handled. There is one more though and I'm not sure what the part is. It is under the tank between the cylinders. I'm not 100% sure this is my rattle, but it sure sounds like it. Previously I couldn't replicate the rattle without being underway, but as it turns out, if on the jiffy stand, with the bars turned right, and a slow cold idle, I can hear it.

Again, not 100% sure this is my rattle. I'm mostly concerned if this is a fix it now problem or if I can safely take the ride I was planning for today. I'm assuming I have to pull the tank to get to the far nut in this picture. The one closest to me is tight. The part I'm talking about is the horizontal bar that has nuts at either end and some sort of adjustment in the center.


Rattle point

 

That is part of the engine mounting/alignment set up. It is basically an adjustable double heim joint called "16219-79C TOP STABILIZER LINK ". It is used for tilting the engine to the right or left when following the alignment procedure in the factory manual. Yes it can rattle when the rubber in the end links are shot. Another source for rattle is the gas cap. Had that one before.

The engine free floats on a front rubber mount below the oil filter, and another at the rear just above where the rear swingarm is mounted. The joint under your tank is either tightened or loosened to get the swing arm and rear wheel aligned with the front wheel using magnetic inclinometers (cheap price at harbor freight and get two of them) one for the front and one for the rear brake discs.

The rear wheel is mounted to the swingarm. The swingarm is mounted to the trans, the trans is mounted to the engine. The engine is mounted to the frame via the rubber mounts I just mentioned. Kind of important to have that set up correctly and all of the mounts in good condition or there is a potential for a squirrely bike and/or "death wobble". Lots of threads on Dyna alignment and even some youtube videos.

Post a pic of the front head pipe where it is closest to the frame. Should be about a one inch gap. Anything closer and the front rubber mount is shot. If the front is shot then guess what regarding the rear mount? However the front goes out sooner than the rear because the oil dripping from the oil filter change out gets on the front rubber mount and breaks down the rubber so it dies a sooner than the rear.


Obviously old is on the left. Note the gap at the bottom on the old vs the new.

 

Holy smokes Yankee Dog! Thanks for all that. Man, the knowledge around here is off the charts. I'm going to read that all about 3 more times and then go out and take some measurements. I did happen to come across a Dyna vibration service bulletin from 2012 while researching this issue. I also worried this may be motor mounts after I went through all the exhaust.
At this point, the bike tracks great at all speeds. The front mount is easy to see and it is plenty tight and not visually (to a newb) deteriorated.

In other news, regarding the exhaust, I was able to twist the front muffler so the bracket was more towards the frame which pulled the front in a tad and pushed the rear out and up a tad. After test ride, the bike isn't running like it was. Idle is reliable though not as even a cadence (if that makes sense) and I'm now getting some backfire on deceleration. I got under there and looked at the crossover pipe and it is slightly separated now. I'm assuming this little exhaust leak is probably messing with my tune. It is behind a blacked out heat shield, so if there is an acceptable wrap/patch such as a soft metal or whatever, I'm all ears. There was a suggestion earlier in the thread to cut off the crossover and patch weld the ports on the headers. I don't weld, though I have friends who can help/teach me. I do prefer the easy road if the end result is the same.