There is no number stamped on them. It's 47549-97 in the book. They only used them for '97-'98. Before then they were the same '85 - '96.

Use that part number and do a search on ebay. They have good pictures.

 

Man, I'm glad you found that now instead of finding out the hard way in the middle of a long sweeping corner. You dodged a bullet there my friend.

 

If you search the forum or google harley cracked swingarm.. some posts and images can be found.
Many times the use of lowering blocks is associated with the crack.
Several have been rewelded with extra metal on top and bottom.
Crack is always on belt side since brake side has more support.
Always reported right at axle rod point.

 

The use of lowering blocks and the repeated overtightening of axle bolt appear to be related to crack formation.
Did your bike have lowering blocks at some time?
Did you ever review the axle before?

 

FYI, if your going to go with replacement swing arm, and just trashing old swing arm, let me know and will pick up shipping to have it sent to me.

Hence easy to grind for tig fillet welds of cracks while jig'd, grind welds flush and add in top and bottom gusset plates, touch up paint, and have a back up on hand in end on the cheap that is stronger than the OEM unit to start..

 

As far as I know it has never had lowering blocks, I have only had the bike for a few years so it's hard to say what happened prior.

 

Consider the google search mentioned for harley cracked swingarm.... Under images.
The images are likely to look similar to your situation.
Remove swingarm by yourself and then get a professional weld and strengthening of area that will likely provide a stronger solution that is cost effective.
Upon reinstallation make sure to replace the rubber isolators for swingarm..i think it is part 47564-86B and cost about $50 US dollars for the set.
For about $150 out the door plus your labor it might be the most cost effective choice...especially if your are due for a new tire, brakes or belt.

 

Going with axle bolt way over torqued time and time again, and no one bother to change the fork oil in the shocks/set the air pressure correctly in the shocks, throw in some rough roads, and with shocks just bottoming out over and over, how you end up with cracked swing arm.

So before you solve the swing arm problem, pull the shocks and boots up to check for leaking shocks that you may need to rebuild (honda has the parts), and at least check the oil in the shocks. with them drained, will use 10.5 oz of fluid each, and as for shock oil weight,
Stock is 10w in the forks, 7.5 in the shocks,
If changing out the forks to 15w, then shocks to 10w,
And if 20w in forks, then 12.5 in shocks.

As for forks, should be rebuild about every 40K (kit to rebuild both forks are about $80), and if doing both the forks and changing the oil in the shocks, then do 15w in forks at factory level, and 10w oil in shocks at 10.5oz each.

Note, when hanging the shocks, angle them so air port is the lowest and let them sit for about 5 mins in the end, before you do final vac to get last old fluid out.
Also, forgo the air pump, and just use the mity vac to draw out the old fluid.

 

prob not cost effective to ship, but if you're ever out near Boston - i have a stock swingarm from a 98 RKC collecting dust

 

Is there any way you could get a ballpark figure on shipping? Depending what it would cost, it might be worth it.