External breather Evo Screamin Eagle EFI
#1
External breather Evo Screamin Eagle EFI
I am considering a breather bypass on my 1998 Electra Glide Custom Ultra EFI which has a stage 2 Screamin' Eagle.
Have any of you done this to model with the SE air cleaner?
What is the procedure to accomplish this?
Have any of you done this to model with the SE air cleaner?
What is the procedure to accomplish this?
Last edited by Evo-Wes; 09-12-2024 at 06:51 PM.
#3
Remove #7 and the hole in the back plate for #7 gets plugged.
Replace #12 with a longer hose that just gets located (dumps down) someplace where as mentioned oil does not get on anything that would create issues like oil on dripping on the engine, tire, etc.
While not fuel injected my set up is the same as yours and the #12 hose goes behind my rear cylinder pushrods and thru a gap between the oil pump and starter, straight down. It is a about 3 inches away and a little to the right of the rear tire. It is probably a little long as you can see the hose sticking straight down when your standing away from the bike. I don't care if you can see the hose. I have no issues with oil on my rear tire/wheel.
I occasionally get one drop of oil on the ground when I park it after a "spirited run". I also have a small fabric screen zipped tied over the end of the hose although I don't think I really need it. I'm not sure if a mud dauber would want to go into a tube that has a coating of oil inside it. Did not have the screen for a couple of seasons and had no issues.
When fishing the hose, just make sure you don't squeeze or collapse the hose at areas like behind the pushrods or at sharp bends.
I have some 3/8 stainless steel tubing and have often thought about polishing it up and using the tubing bender to make a nice custom fit tubing set up but have never got around to it. It's pretty low on the "to do list".
Replace #12 with a longer hose that just gets located (dumps down) someplace where as mentioned oil does not get on anything that would create issues like oil on dripping on the engine, tire, etc.
While not fuel injected my set up is the same as yours and the #12 hose goes behind my rear cylinder pushrods and thru a gap between the oil pump and starter, straight down. It is a about 3 inches away and a little to the right of the rear tire. It is probably a little long as you can see the hose sticking straight down when your standing away from the bike. I don't care if you can see the hose. I have no issues with oil on my rear tire/wheel.
I occasionally get one drop of oil on the ground when I park it after a "spirited run". I also have a small fabric screen zipped tied over the end of the hose although I don't think I really need it. I'm not sure if a mud dauber would want to go into a tube that has a coating of oil inside it. Did not have the screen for a couple of seasons and had no issues.
When fishing the hose, just make sure you don't squeeze or collapse the hose at areas like behind the pushrods or at sharp bends.
I have some 3/8 stainless steel tubing and have often thought about polishing it up and using the tubing bender to make a nice custom fit tubing set up but have never got around to it. It's pretty low on the "to do list".
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Evo-Wes (09-13-2024)
#4
Remove #7 and the hole in the back plate for #7 gets plugged.
Replace #12 with a longer hose that just gets located (dumps down) someplace where as mentioned oil does not get on anything that would create issues like oil on dripping on the engine, tire, etc.
While not fuel injected my set up is the same as yours and the #12 hose goes behind my rear cylinder pushrods and thru a gap between the oil pump and starter, straight down. It is a about 3 inches away and a little to the right of the rear tire. It is probably a little long as you can see the hose sticking straight down when your standing away from the bike. I don't care if you can see the hose. I have no issues with oil on my rear tire/wheel.
I occasionally get one drop of oil on the ground when I park it after a "spirited run". I also have a small fabric screen zipped tied over the end of the hose although I don't think I really need it. I'm not sure if a mud dauber would want to go into a tube that has a coating of oil inside it. Did not have the screen for a couple of seasons and had no issues.
When fishing the hose, just make sure you don't squeeze or collapse the hose at areas like behind the pushrods or at sharp bends.
I have some 3/8 stainless steel tubing and have often thought about polishing it up and using the tubing bender to make a nice custom fit tubing set up but have never got around to it. It's pretty low on the "to do list".
Replace #12 with a longer hose that just gets located (dumps down) someplace where as mentioned oil does not get on anything that would create issues like oil on dripping on the engine, tire, etc.
While not fuel injected my set up is the same as yours and the #12 hose goes behind my rear cylinder pushrods and thru a gap between the oil pump and starter, straight down. It is a about 3 inches away and a little to the right of the rear tire. It is probably a little long as you can see the hose sticking straight down when your standing away from the bike. I don't care if you can see the hose. I have no issues with oil on my rear tire/wheel.
I occasionally get one drop of oil on the ground when I park it after a "spirited run". I also have a small fabric screen zipped tied over the end of the hose although I don't think I really need it. I'm not sure if a mud dauber would want to go into a tube that has a coating of oil inside it. Did not have the screen for a couple of seasons and had no issues.
When fishing the hose, just make sure you don't squeeze or collapse the hose at areas like behind the pushrods or at sharp bends.
I have some 3/8 stainless steel tubing and have often thought about polishing it up and using the tubing bender to make a nice custom fit tubing set up but have never got around to it. It's pretty low on the "to do list".
My experience anyway.. I have Not personally Had a head breather show any more than a hint of oil..but, I do Not Ever Fill the oil tank either, and Only run the specified oil filter.. same one on my Shovelhead.
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Yankee Dog (09-13-2024)
#5
#6
#7
Lots of folks will put a little vented catch can on the end of that hose. Catches any/all oil mist with no chance of it going onto your bike or tires. In truth, if you have more than a little mist periodically you've got bigger problems, but it's a nice option. Check out dk customs, they've got a nice one. It's $$ money but you can find similar options cheaper.
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#8
#9
Thank you very much for the replies. Your instructions are very straightforward.
I have not yet taken the air cleaner apart but have only been looking at the parts schematic posted above.
The reason that I ask is that some of the illustrations, videos, instructions on the internet deal with backplates which have internal routing passages which must be plugged also.
The external breather-bypass is one of the most sensible things that can be done to the V-twin engine, IMO. I have read that auto engines have used the breather vapors into the throttle for 50 years with no ill effects. I do not agree with this and the EPA is not your friend.
I do have a question that I wish you gentlemen would discuss, though, to help me understand.
To my way of thinking, the volume of air in the H-D EVO engine crankcase constantly changes (disregarding combustion gas leak around the pistons). Both pistons ascend toward the head at about the same time, which increases the volume of air in the crankcase by about 80 cubic inches. And both pistons then descend toward the crankpin at about the same time, which decreases the volume of air in the crankcase by 80 cubic inches. That is a hell of a lot of huffing and puffing, inhale and exhale.
This creates tremendous turbulence in the crankcase.
How is this inhale/exhale controlled/accommodated in the engine?
I have not yet taken the air cleaner apart but have only been looking at the parts schematic posted above.
The reason that I ask is that some of the illustrations, videos, instructions on the internet deal with backplates which have internal routing passages which must be plugged also.
The external breather-bypass is one of the most sensible things that can be done to the V-twin engine, IMO. I have read that auto engines have used the breather vapors into the throttle for 50 years with no ill effects. I do not agree with this and the EPA is not your friend.
I do have a question that I wish you gentlemen would discuss, though, to help me understand.
To my way of thinking, the volume of air in the H-D EVO engine crankcase constantly changes (disregarding combustion gas leak around the pistons). Both pistons ascend toward the head at about the same time, which increases the volume of air in the crankcase by about 80 cubic inches. And both pistons then descend toward the crankpin at about the same time, which decreases the volume of air in the crankcase by 80 cubic inches. That is a hell of a lot of huffing and puffing, inhale and exhale.
This creates tremendous turbulence in the crankcase.
How is this inhale/exhale controlled/accommodated in the engine?
#10
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