For context I have not owned this bike for very long an prior to my ownership it wasn't not well taken care of, after about a week of riding it I started to notice the clutch was slipping an very quickly getting worse.

after taking out the clutch plates I noticed extreme wear on only small sections of the clutch plates, I quickly noticed the entire clutch basket wobbled when spun, after removing the clutch basket and some use of a dial indicator. It became clear that the shaft was no good at 0.018 run out over the factory 0.003

The spline shaft internals i got were from a 94 soft tail everything has gone together great other than now my original inner primary will not work with this new set up snd the spline clutch basket also doesn't line up with my compensater sprocket it sets to far out on the shaft as well as I can't use my original starter either, I can't use a 94 starter because the transmission case isn't built for it so I'm stuck on what I can do to fix these problems as far as what parts I can use, so my question is, what inner primary should I get? Do I possibly have the wrong clutch basket? even though it fits the shaft it doesn't seem to slide back far enough and what might I be able to do with my starter? Sorry for the crappy punctuation, it was never my strongest subject in school.

 

You have to change the mainshaft & inner primary. They need to match.
It's been over 20 years since I did mine so I don't remember everything but those were the 2 items I bought new. Everything else was from parts on hand at my friends shop so I can't give you a parts list.
I'm sure somebody else can fill in the details.

 

No Way I do that if (Big Word) If you have an Early '84...The Late '84+...begs for upgrade..
That Shovelhead Clutch is tough as a Ten inch Tiger Turd...If set up properly...

 

It's the later model clutch not the shovelhead clutch unfortunately I can't find the replacement keyway shaft so the spline shaft is almost a necessity, if it weren't for the shaft being bent I would have just replaced the clutches an kept riding.

 

Cheaper accross the Board to go Backwards to Shovelhead Shaft and Clutch... But, Only, if one Knows exactly How to set up a Shovelhead Clutch..
Edit; That means BTDT and yer Shovel clutch was Flawless..Otherwise.. Late model Splined shaft..Which requires so much ****...I simply Bought a Splined shaft Drivetrain Used...CraigsList I think..
The 1996 or 7 Tranny I got went right into my FXR,..certainly should be No Problems with a "T"

 

Andrews makes them. Part #296850 and occasionally you'll find an NOS shaft on ebay.

Where exactly are you measuring the runout?

You go trying to use any '94 parts and you'll end up using ALL '94 parts before you get it to work. I think Mike131 did it and there's a thread somewhere on it. You're looking at inner and outer primary, starter, main drive gear at minimum.

A lot of guys have done it, but I will never believe that the spline shaft is an upgrade in any way. They're just cheaper and easier fo make is why they went to it in the first place.

 

Splines are easier and foolproof to assemble, that alone is an upgrade to me.

Every time I install the clutch and compensator onto my `89 Softail, I am glad I upgraded to the splined shaft.

However, in Trevor`s case I agree with you Rufus, I think the better idea would be to simply replace the mainshaft, too many issues to overcome if the bike is chain drive.

I`m assuming the OP`s bike is chain drive....but he has not told us yet.

@Trevor84FLT
All splined mainshafts are made for belt drive, if your bike is chain drive, the splined mainshaft is not going to work, unless you go crazy and buy all late model parts like T159vej said.

Andrews sells the chain drive tapered mainshaft for $236 (Part No. 296800).
Belt drive tapered mainshaft is PN 296850.

You can get all the bearings from the dealer, all good quality stuff.

Don`t bother trying to source them from a bearing house, they will cost a fortune, the days of finding bearings at a vendor at a better price are long gone.

 

I would Only agree with this, If (big Word) If the post L'84 used a Morse Taper...It decidedly Does Not..
I'm Back to "Cheaper to Buy the whole Drivetrain"...was for Me.

 

the run out was measured jut after the treads for the clutch basket then about halfway down it measured about .011/ .012 .

 

Is this a belt drive, or a chain drive?