I generally Don't run a Tach...But...I have Never rode around at 30MPH in High Gear. Would certainly be Inviting Unpleasantries!!

 

Truth to that..
My sweet spot is 2550-2800.... Purs like a LION.. 😂

 

Thanks guys, yes i can run it at 2800-3000 but she feels pretty strained if my speed is 30mph. Her sweet spot is at 3200 at 70mph. Also this is something thats happened since i changed the mounts so before this she was fine running at 2000 when i had to. I also wanted to add that she seems to run straight,, when i let go the bars she runs true and there is no problem on the turns so i think my wheels are aligned. Attached a photo of the rear pulley so you can see theres not much room for the belt to move around, i think its pretty straight?



I'm going to do a series of checks as you guys have noted above to iron out as many alignment issues as i can.

 

Mine likes bout 3000-3200 in 4th gear. Man I love taking the curves around those RPM's...

Monchidog, I would temporarily stay away from the "engine running to settle it in" thing and just work on the alignment. You can always do the "running it in" at a later time if still having issues:

Would I be correct in saying then that perhaps one way to align everything is the following:
- stand the bike up to 90 but with wheels on the ground (using jacks and shims) Yes
- undo the bolt on the top engine mount and take it out of its hole, Yes
- loosen all the bolts on the front and back motor mount, Yes, but loosen bolts from frame to mount and bolts that go from mount to engine or trans (all bolts not just half of them).
- set up an inclinometer/bubble level on the front brake disk to 90 Yes but need a way to make sure front end stays straight forward during the process
- set up an inclinometer/bubble level on the frame under the seat A bubble level is fine but try to get the bubble perfectly centered
- set up an inclinometer/bubble level on the rear disc brake Yes
- adjust engine "by hand" moving the top left or right until all readings are at 90. Yes, also making nothing but wires and cables go from engine to frame (nothing limiting movement of engine)
- with wheels still on the ground run the bike for 30 seconds to settle it into place. I think that is just a Clymer thing. Can't find that in the Factory manual
- re check all the levels Yes
- tighten front and back motor mounts up (using shims if needed) Yes, try the back first then the front
- finally, adjust the arm of the top mount to fit into its hole without any tension. Yes and check your heim joints to make sure they are not shot or have slop

As far as the belt in your rear sprocket pic, you look really close to perfect. Just pay attention to forward travel of the wheel and how the belt centers it self. Don't pay attention to what the belt does with backwards wheel rotation. Where does the belt sit on the front pulley with forward rotation?

I think your plan is a good one except for the items I indicated and am curious how things turn out.

 

If that was my FXR in the above picture...The right side would get at least a half turn.. then recheck

 

Thanks Yankee dog for that confirmation, just what I needed now its back to the drawing board with this and slowly, methodically, make all the adjustments!
Thanks everyone for your input as always - every day is a learning day!
I'll make the adjustments over the weekend and come back with how its gone and if its fixed.

 

@monchidog

I'll try to make a short story if I can of what I went through 18 months on a 1997 FLHT casing a vibration that mimics to a T what you said here.
Mine would shake the the fairing at 1700 -2200 rpm so bad you couldn't focus on the gauges at all. Revved up in neural and worse when riding.
Between myself , local dealer and indy shop we did and re did all you have done also.

Yes I spent some bucks

Ended up visiting with 2 dealers 3 indy's and a trip to a 4th shop near Tulsa Ok (HS friend was at a shop there.)
All agreed that it wasn't right and really bad but no clue as to what the cause was short of scissored crank.
I DIDN'T WANT TO HEAR THAT

On another forum I had gotten to know Tom with AMS in Ft Worth Tx.
Between the forum , emails and phone calls we worked though and re ck'd everything done so far.

I finally asked him is there anything else you can think of short of going after the crank?
He answered take a hard look at the clutch basket.

The rivets that held the clutch basket together were loose, while not totally unheard of but these were real loose.
I called him and he said you found your vibration!!!
He sent me one.
Replaced it and was good to GO

Not saying this is your problem but it was mine

WP

 

That is definitely one of those - "who woulda thunk it"

 

V Twins like to rev. Always shake my head when I hear someone hit third gear and he hasn't even cracked 3k rpm once

 

Welp...When I do Have a Tach...I am guilty of spending More time Below 3k than above, and when above, only Certain Engines go above 6k...certainly on my Shovelheads, and Most Evo Big Twins..
Haven't encountered a Single Problem, as long as the Engine is Not Lugging...But, Only been riding H-D exclusively since Late 1970's

Edit; One thing Certain, RPM is a Great way to Spot former Import Pilots!!!