Broken Exhaust
#1
Broken Exhaust
97 FLHTCUI
My rear exhaust header, has cracked completely in 2 where it exits the rear head and forms a Y to go left and right.
I doubt a repair would be a long term fix.
The part number is 65626-95,
I read somewhere that earlier and later model header pipes will fit.
Anyone know anything about that, or what will and won't fit?
Thanks for any help.
I don't want an entire 2 into 2 system especially at the moment.
My rear exhaust header, has cracked completely in 2 where it exits the rear head and forms a Y to go left and right.
I doubt a repair would be a long term fix.
The part number is 65626-95,
I read somewhere that earlier and later model header pipes will fit.
Anyone know anything about that, or what will and won't fit?
Thanks for any help.
I don't want an entire 2 into 2 system especially at the moment.
#2
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#3
#4
I guess it depends on your needs and pocket.
You can convert to true dual for about $200.
Basically replace the back exhaust 'Y" split with the curved piece in kit and use the included straight pipe for right side.
https://fullsac.com/product/true-dua...8-flh-touring/
You can convert to true dual for about $200.
Basically replace the back exhaust 'Y" split with the curved piece in kit and use the included straight pipe for right side.
https://fullsac.com/product/true-dua...8-flh-touring/
#5
I guess it depends on your needs and pocket.
You can convert to true dual for about $200.
Basically replace the back exhaust 'Y" split with the curved piece in kit and use the included straight pipe for right side.
https://fullsac.com/product/true-dua...8-flh-touring/
You can convert to true dual for about $200.
Basically replace the back exhaust 'Y" split with the curved piece in kit and use the included straight pipe for right side.
https://fullsac.com/product/true-dua...8-flh-touring/
I was looking at that.
Have you used it?
How is it?
#6
Photo would help, since need to know if just vibration crack out, or pipe rusted/rotted out from the inside out, and tig welding it with SS fill rod (Heat flue remover on the chrome to get it back to gleaming) is no longer an option without internal sleeve'g for structural suport and maybe gusset add.
Note, back in days of golfsmith, they sold a liquid that would shine chrome back to silver, when heat would cause the chrome to turn blue from torching to pull golf club heads off the shafts, and not hard to polish up SS filler weld to get very close to polish chrome color as well.
I bring his up, since you may not tig weld, but may be a shop around that could tig up the piece for around $100, and would be a lot cheaper than having to replace the entire exhaust system. Hell, if not worried about perfect looking welds out the gate (or cover is going to hide where the weld is going to be), then could FCAW the broken pipe back up with Blue demon 308L SS flux core wire, and just have a more final clean up on the welds if not going to be covered.
Hence most of the time, the pipe will want to break down at the lower section if pipe does not have the extra gusset there, and pipe cover is going to cover up the weld repair, so the Blue demon 308L SS flux core wire works there really well, since its not going to rust after a while like standard NR-212 multi pass wire instead.
Note, FCAW welder has to be DC (note A/C), and unlike single pass or NR-212 multi pass wire where you run electrode DCEN negative and ground strap as postie to put more heat into the work piece, need to swap out leads to DCEP and ground strap as negative. The reason for this, you want to put more heat into the wire, than the work piece with the SS flux core wire.
Note, back in days of golfsmith, they sold a liquid that would shine chrome back to silver, when heat would cause the chrome to turn blue from torching to pull golf club heads off the shafts, and not hard to polish up SS filler weld to get very close to polish chrome color as well.
I bring his up, since you may not tig weld, but may be a shop around that could tig up the piece for around $100, and would be a lot cheaper than having to replace the entire exhaust system. Hell, if not worried about perfect looking welds out the gate (or cover is going to hide where the weld is going to be), then could FCAW the broken pipe back up with Blue demon 308L SS flux core wire, and just have a more final clean up on the welds if not going to be covered.
Hence most of the time, the pipe will want to break down at the lower section if pipe does not have the extra gusset there, and pipe cover is going to cover up the weld repair, so the Blue demon 308L SS flux core wire works there really well, since its not going to rust after a while like standard NR-212 multi pass wire instead.
Note, FCAW welder has to be DC (note A/C), and unlike single pass or NR-212 multi pass wire where you run electrode DCEN negative and ground strap as postie to put more heat into the work piece, need to swap out leads to DCEP and ground strap as negative. The reason for this, you want to put more heat into the wire, than the work piece with the SS flux core wire.
#7
Photo would help, since need to know if just vibration crack out, or pipe rusted/rotted out from the inside out, and tig welding it with SS fill rod (Heat flue remover on the chrome to get it back to gleaming) is no longer an option without internal sleeve'g for structural suport and maybe gusset add.
Note, back in days of golfsmith, they sold a liquid that would shine chrome back to silver, when heat would cause the chrome to turn blue from torching to pull golf club heads off the shafts, and not hard to polish up SS filler weld to get very close to polish chrome color as well.
I bring his up, since you may not tig weld, but may be a shop around that could tig up the piece for around $100, and would be a lot cheaper than having to replace the entire exhaust system. Hell, if not worried about perfect looking welds out the gate (or cover is going to hide where the weld is going to be), then could FCAW the broken pipe back up with Blue demon 308L SS flux core wire, and just have a more final clean up on the welds if not going to be covered.
Hence most of the time, the pipe will want to break down at the lower section if pipe does not have the extra gusset there, and pipe cover is going to cover up the weld repair, so the Blue demon 308L SS flux core wire works there really well, since its not going to rust after a while like standard NR-212 multi pass wire instead.
Note, FCAW welder has to be DC (note A/C), and unlike single pass or NR-212 multi pass wire where you run electrode DCEN negative and ground strap as postie to put more heat into the work piece, need to swap out leads to DCEP and ground strap as negative. The reason for this, you want to put more heat into the wire, than the work piece with the SS flux core wire.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Demon-30...00G5GHA7E?th=1
https://youtu.be/yx6weJurINc
Note, back in days of golfsmith, they sold a liquid that would shine chrome back to silver, when heat would cause the chrome to turn blue from torching to pull golf club heads off the shafts, and not hard to polish up SS filler weld to get very close to polish chrome color as well.
I bring his up, since you may not tig weld, but may be a shop around that could tig up the piece for around $100, and would be a lot cheaper than having to replace the entire exhaust system. Hell, if not worried about perfect looking welds out the gate (or cover is going to hide where the weld is going to be), then could FCAW the broken pipe back up with Blue demon 308L SS flux core wire, and just have a more final clean up on the welds if not going to be covered.
Hence most of the time, the pipe will want to break down at the lower section if pipe does not have the extra gusset there, and pipe cover is going to cover up the weld repair, so the Blue demon 308L SS flux core wire works there really well, since its not going to rust after a while like standard NR-212 multi pass wire instead.
Note, FCAW welder has to be DC (note A/C), and unlike single pass or NR-212 multi pass wire where you run electrode DCEN negative and ground strap as postie to put more heat into the work piece, need to swap out leads to DCEP and ground strap as negative. The reason for this, you want to put more heat into the wire, than the work piece with the SS flux core wire.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Demon-30...00G5GHA7E?th=1
https://youtu.be/yx6weJurINc
Thanks, I've decided to go this route.
https://fullsac.com/product/true-dua...8-flh-touring/
I could have it welded but have no faith in it being a good long term fix.
The following users liked this post:
flhchaz (08-21-2024)
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im (08-29-2024),
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Schex (08-29-2024)
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