Hammer said they can check out my jugs bore/hone them and get me proper pistons to fit when they do my heads. But I’ll mic out my bores first.

 

Well finally got some alone time in the shop so I could focus. Got it pretty much torn down to the short block.




First thing some good news. N Grind!!



But that’s is where things may go left field.



I couldn’t figure out what was stuffed in under the oil pump drive. No it didn’t fall out when I removed the cover. It was actually wedged in there. It’s the breather gear shim. And replaced it where it was supposed to be. The breather gear appears to be in good shape but does NOT turn freely in the bore. It’s on the replace list anyway.



rear outer lifter (exhaust?) wheel looks okay some light scratches but the skirt definitely has some wear. This one about fell out on its own. Visual inspection of the others they don’t have this wear. But I’ll remove the lifter blocks this weekend.


Front

Rear

rear cylinder definitely is more carboned up vs the front. I can see why it failed the leak down the intake valve has so much carbon around it I’m sure it’s slightly open. Will do some more tests on them later as well. But no valve recession that’s a plus.



James Gaskets everywhere. Rear was a pain as about half way pulling the head bolt out in the inner rear it unscrewed the head stud out of the block. Some careful propping of the head and a vise grip to hold the stud (will be replaced) got the head nuts off. Lots of corrosion buildup on them.





my borescope definitely exaggerated the cross hatching no carbon ridge but definitely covered in oil. If they fall within tolerance maybe a quick hone and new rings will be all it needs or maybe a clean up bore and some forged 20 overs and new rings. And go back the other way.


nothing excitingly major to report. Other than when removing the heads. The small Allen bolts were snug but not tight but the 1/2” inner the 3 were hardly tight at all. Like snug plus a tap. First one was like oh loose bolt then it was like 6/6 loose bolts. The 4 over the rocker pins were fairly tight but still not near spec as I used my 3” shorty ratchet and easily removed them. I’m honestly surprised I had no oil leaks up top. Goes to show how well James Gaskets seal.

anyway time for some sleep mode. Long day at the shop in the heat then work in my sweat box of a work shop for 2 hours pulling the heads off.

will be adding the Hayden Oil Fix to the list as well.

 

Ask the shop you are working with to check the bottom of the cylinder to ensure they are flat. Thay will help get a good seal on the base gaskets.

When reassembling the cylinders, put the cylinders and pistons on without rings or gaskets and snug the head bolts with enough spacers in place to firmly hold them in place and check how far above or below the deck they (pistons) are. Use that measurement to select the correct base and head gaskets to set the deck heigth when assembled, ideally .030-.035 when the picton is at TDC on each cylinder. I use Cometic gaskets (they have different thickness gaskets available), but Harley OEM breather umbrella seals.

Also, the plastic breather gears will warp over time from heat and can damage the breather bore. So check the breather bore closely for damage. If it it deeply scored or is worn oblong, a steel geat likey won't work well. In that case consider using an S&S reed valve breather.

Generally, if a cylinder stud backs out, I would replace it. And while many do not agree, I replace all studs and head bolts at the same time because they are TTY (torque to yeild) and you want even clamping when torquing the head bolts.

The engine look cleak inside, so it appreas it has been well maintained. And since heads and camchest look like they are untouched, it appears only the rocker cover gaskets were replaced previously. So I recommend upgrading the cam bearing with the fulll complement bearing, B138 along with lifters. Lots of brands of lifters, but don't get no name online auction ones. WFO Larry is a reliable source for good quality parts. Just google WFO Larry and you will find him.

Be a little cautious on cam selection. With a heavy bike, you want good low end torque meaning a cam that closes the intake before 40 degrees unless you are adding compression. But another caution on that becuase of poor fuel quality.

Paul

 

No need to replace Evo head bolts if they are in good condition, personal choice.

Evo Cylinder Head Bolts are not Torque to Yield bolts.

The fact that they are torqued to a base torque and final turned to an angle does not mean they are torque to yield.

 

@pgreer EV27 or a comp EVL-5005 but most likely the 27.

still amazes me that that shim has been off the end of the breather gear. So the bikes never had proper crack case venting since they redid the bike and added all the chrome bits.

I might forgo the oil pump “might” can’t hurt to pull it off and check it out and reseal it. While I’m here.

hopefully the jugs can be cleaned up.

my Wallets relaxing a bit but now I’m adding more to the list. Namely deciding on either new slip ons or going full gusto and going true duals. I like Reinhardt but feel they are like Nike. Paying for the name.

 

I have to give huge props to the guys at Hammer Performance. Awesome customer service and fast on helping me sort out what I’m doing. So far

Bore and Hone my Jugs
Competion Head rebuild
CP Carrillo Forged Pistons or Weisco but staying 8.5:1
Comp EVL-5005 Cam
push Rods
s&s tappets
s&s breather gear
new cam bearing
gaskets
oil pump reseal kit
IGN upgrade

and looking for suggestions on slip ons. The Supertrapps have always been a pain, and are now loaded with oil and soot. Time for something different that helps make that cam sound good.

 

Down to the short block. The head studs were rusty and badly corroded and were a b* to remove even with a stud remover and 1/2” breaker bar. Got them half turn out and soaked in Kroll for a bit then removed them.

Then out of boredom I popped the covers off the swing arm to find my bushings a bit worn mostly on the right.

so a new set of swing arm bushings will be installed. Have the Glide Pro up front. Maybe go with theirs.

 

It appears that the rear rod is not resting against the case with nothing holding it in place? Is that correct, or are there rags holding it I can't see?

Be sure to clean the threads and holes of any debris or oil in the stud holes before installing new studs. Do not tap the threads though.

Paul

 

Suggestion...

Put the rags above the crankcase spigot holes, the way they are now (down inside), a piece of debris can still fall in, and if you don`t see it, the debris could fall in when you remove those rags.

 

Just read the thread, nice looking bike.
That's going to be a nice running bike when done.

I'm hoping there's a rag holding the rear rod up. edit, I see pgreer saw it also.

I don't know the plan, but I'd remove and clean the oil tank, don't feed all those new parts grit from the previous cylinder wear.
And second, get the fuel system right. Check everything from the petcock screen to the intake manifold
What killed this engine is running it overly rich for a long time, washed the cylinders, and killed ring seal.