Here is how you read the abstract in the shop manual. Say the min/max shows in parentheses like (153-187 psi). The cutoff for a rebuild is basically 153. You are at 120 that is way out of spec.
In a ducati manual it just shows 150 and then in capitals POOR next to it. Then the gurus pop in and say it will run at 120 or whatever is under spec. So even showing them 150 POOR, they just don't get it.

 

Like to see you manual @Bott but my shop manual says hot motor anything above 90 was a pass. I thought 120 seemed low.

 

Num, These are old Honda '70's spec books. The duc is online. Just for grins I opened my 14's manual and that specs out at (149-228). Kind of see the 150 is the cutoff?

Test hot you'll pull maybe 10 pounds more but you'd be at 140-130 and still be out of spec. Kind of see you're going thru plugs at 120? One piston is wet and guide oil dilutes and fires off. Rings can no longer scrap down to wipe the walls. Even crankcase vapor is on the intake side and dilutes and burns. So to narrow down the cause = Rings, let alone the seats can't hold back the pressure (loss)..

Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle)

 

I’m beginning to suspect the original owner knew of this issue and was part of his reason getting rid of it and keeping his 2017 CVO Ultra. I just really didn’t ride it much the last few years till I’ve put nearly 1000 on it this year. Now all the problems rear their ugly head. And last few rides all hell broke loose. I’ve never ridden it hard. 70-75 max. A few 95+ days of heat last summer on a short trip east. Always kept the RPMs up and never lugged it. And honestly never even hit the rev limiter till I miss shifted it gettin on the freeway going between 3-4 rolling down the on ramp.

when I pulled the cover off it this spring and checked fluids I noticed it down the dip stick, and figured I maybe just didn’t get the 1/2 quart in it when I changed the fluid before I went east last summer. Filled it up went for a 200 mile ride. Checked it hot and ot was barely above the hot low mark. Let it cool
off and it was right back to down below the cold full. Dropped the oil got 2.75 quarts out. Refilled to 3.5 quarts. One ride back to low again.

and if the bike ran this good messed up. It’s going to be an animal when it’s got proper compression.

 

Enough for one night.

 

Been talking with Hammer and NightRider

Should I need new jugs what’s the consensus on the Drag Specialty Jugs that are offshore?

plus EV27 vs Comp Cams EVL-5005

should be pulling the heads in the next night or so. But I’m this far it’s going to get new base gaskets at minimum.

 

Everyone seems to clamor for Cams that need to be at wild RPM to Make HP...Think we are too dumb to Know that RPM is HP, how it is Meausred!!!
I want HP at Low RPM...show me Sumpin!!!

 

Someone want to be super generous and make my day, heck my entire year I’d love a set of the Pan Head Look Rocker Boxes for when I start going back together.

 

I would just bore my jugs and have new pistons fit by a reputable Indy/machine shop engine builder...

 

An experienced (with Harleys) machine shop near me charges $100 per jug for boring. Must have the pistons for them to measure. To me, it seems more cost effective to have jugs bored that to buy new ones.