The biggest word in all of this is traction = softail and grip is wheel hop - 2 wheel and wheel hop is a hi side drop - reason wheelie bars became the norm
we did a fat boy way back and used a cyntrifugal clutch hat the type the old hi gear fullers used 3 inch belt drive
idle clutch out in gear - 1/4 throttle - hang on did i say hang on yep - only way to put the power to the ground and keep it some what controllable
finesse is the deal add weight change the grip at low engine speed - the clutch walk out controls in how hi the wheel is up and wheel spin is sort of controlled as well - race track is easyer no variables in pavement grip like the street but as said in this overwhelming need for speed — a compromise will be needed
The biggest word in all of this is traction = softail and grip is wheel hop - 2 wheel and wheel hop is a hi side drop - reason wheelie bars became the norm
we did a fat boy way back and used a cyntrifugal clutch hat the type the old hi gear fullers used 3 inch belt drive
idle clutch out in gear - 1/4 throttle - hang on did i say hang on yep - only way to put the power to the ground and keep it some what controllable
finesse is the deal add weight change the grip at low engine speed - the clutch walk out controls in how hi the wheel is up and wheel spin is sort of controlled as well - race track is easyer no variables in pavement grip like the street but as said in this overwhelming need for speed — a compromise will be needed
I like the centrifugal clutch idea..
Sort of like when we're were little kids on our mini bikes...
Grip it and rip it...
The biggest word in all of this is traction = softail and grip is wheel hop - 2 wheel and wheel hop is a hi side drop - reason wheelie bars became the norm
we did a fat boy way back and used a cyntrifugal clutch hat the type the old hi gear fullers used 3 inch belt drive
idle clutch out in gear - 1/4 throttle - hang on did i say hang on yep - only way to put the power to the ground and keep it some what controllable
finesse is the deal add weight change the grip at low engine speed - the clutch walk out controls in how hi the wheel is up and wheel spin is sort of controlled as well - race track is easyer no variables in pavement grip like the street but as said in this overwhelming need for speed — a compromise will be needed
If you think back on my posts since I joined there has been controversy about my comments on gearing and power band especially in the Dyno threads.. you guys are contributing to my comments. I just don’t get why the sub 240 duration cams and talk about making the torque at like 2k.. who the heck can put that nonsense on the ground? I’ts a blessing to bleed that kinda torque off my launch lol. And gearing.. guys criticize my using 3 gears in the quarter.. usually guys who read a magazine and have never raced or guys slower than me telling me I’m doing it wrong. With a slick and bar sure use 5 gears build a peak motor… but with no bar and a street tire your better off making a four speed feel like it’s an over drive. A Street class hot rod is DIFFERENT than a dedicated drag bike. And when it’s your goal it’s different from some Bagger guy with a fat wallet bragging about paper from a dyno.
Don’t know about the 127… all new for me, lots of trial and error ahead. I’m thinking 4 gears through.. running 44 tooth now on the back (chain) shift points undetermined but so far even though we’ll past it’s peak 6K feels about right for third to forth. It’s gonna take some funky posture and nerve for the launch. I’m running the pro clutch with variable pressure plate. 150 sticky Avon. Pic above I was doing 1:54 60ft times.. high 11’s 112mph. Don’t think I’ll be seeing 60ft times like that with the springer lol… gotta make up for it around the 1/8 mile to see a 10 sec pass.
Last edited by Rains2much; 07-07-2024 at 09:50 AM.
I ran 13:1-11.87:1 mechanical compression in Shovels on the street for 30 years… I understand compromise and trade offs. I appreciate the well intended folks who warn me and act like I’m going into a territory of dangerous up keep and compromised reliability… what they don’t understand is that for me this is the most reliable bike I’ve ever owned lol. My norm is owning and riding 20k a year on bikes that got ring jobs every winter… bikes I adjusted valves on every oil change or 500 miles, whatever came first. Heck.. this is the first personal bike I’ve ever owned that didn’t have solid lifters. I’m a guy who rode a 57 hardtail with a 12:1 93” shovel from Ohio to Daytona straight through… then got up the next day and rode to the keys and back… two days later rode straight through back to Ohio. I adjusted my valves 3 times during the trip.
I’m ok with my 127 on the street.
We all like challenges, some more mechanical than others, aging process is a buffer on boldness, it's coming my friend. I enjoy a 80" Shovel now after years of power, fired up the 127" for the first time Friday night in a year shaking everything off the walls, jumped on the 80" Shovel and went riding all day.
We all like challenges, some more mechanical than others, aging process is a buffer on boldness, it's coming my friend. I enjoy a 80" Shovel now after years of power, fired up the 127" for the first time Friday night in a year shaking everything off the walls, jumped on the 80" Shovel and went riding all day.
Now that I’m helping my parents and have seen there is no dignity in getting older I decided not to age.
I remember before I bought my Wards Fans that his research showed the hottest part of the engine was just below the spark plugs and that is where he suggested to mount the thermal switches,,,,
I remember before I bought my Wards Fans that his research showed the hottest part of the engine was just below the spark plugs and that is where he suggested to mount the thermal switches,,,,
I determined that has to be about right from looking at literally 30-40 pictures and reading forums. Seems where they are is where they need to be.
From a stand point of heat rises and the spark plug area is the last to go dim in flame
front i agree with the location
having said that my guess because we did something like - we had heat sticks that melt at a temp range and we used them to see road racing buells
the iron liner. separated from the alloy cylinder so we went to nickel plated cylinders and for went the iron liner
because we needed more legs ( RPM ) I de stroked the engine and increased the bore 3 - 3/4 inch this gave us 80 cube inches red line went to 8400 instead if 7200 with the same mechanical piston speed - the bike really never came down under 4500 the entire time on the track so heat was an issue all the time
From a stand point of heat rises and the spark plug area is the last to go dim in flame
front i agree with the location
having said that my guess because we did something like - we had heat sticks that melt at a temp range and we used them to see road racing buells
the iron liner. separated from the alloy cylinder so we went to nickel plated cylinders and for went the iron liner
because we needed more legs ( RPM ) I de stroked the engine and increased the bore 3 - 3/4 inch this gave us 80 cube inches red line went to 8400 instead if 7200 with the same mechanical piston speed - the bike really never came down under 4500 the entire time on the track so heat was an issue all the time
Thanks for sharing the pic… never seen that before. Pretty cool. So was your approach to see if it was getting too hot as in a warning, or did you use them for testing as you engineered?
Last edited by Rains2much; 07-07-2024 at 03:07 PM.
07-07-2024, 08:36 AM
