Progressive Monotube Fork Cartridge kit...
#11
Ozzie John, I've been banging away at this for awhile. I'm upgrading my 97 fork legs to 2005 then plan on adding progressives 2005 fxwdg monotubes to that. Other than cartridge length, and overall bike weight there's not a lot of apparent difference.
I'm pulling the parts together as found to do this over the winter. As the bike came to me with acctronix trees and 'lifetime' fork legs.
The other option is to call Racetech, they will build a custom set to your spec. That is my strong second choice.
I'm pulling the parts together as found to do this over the winter. As the bike came to me with acctronix trees and 'lifetime' fork legs.
The other option is to call Racetech, they will build a custom set to your spec. That is my strong second choice.
#12
I was hoping to retain my original legs etc. and from what I can see looking at parts list my 89 WG fork tube remain the same in the Dyna up to 99. so, I suppose I'm looking for cartridges that fit up to 99 Dynas. I wonder though, if they are available, how do they account for the compression and rebound dampening though my style fork cap?
And for all I know progressive does not say if they make anything 99 earlier It's all 2000 up...
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; 06-10-2024 at 09:13 PM.
#13
I installed the mono tubes in my '05 Road Glide about 35k miles ago, with a pair of their 944's out back. Lowered the bike 1" front and back and rides much better than stock, even lowered. I would recommend.
I have their drop in kit on the Wide Glide, lowered that by about 2" and rides better than stock, go figure.
I have their drop in kit on the Wide Glide, lowered that by about 2" and rides better than stock, go figure.
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98hotrodfatboy (06-11-2024)
#14
I installed the mono tubes in my '05 Road Glide about 35k miles ago, with a pair of their 944's out back. Lowered the bike 1" front and back and rides much better than stock, even lowered. I would recommend.
I have their drop in kit on the Wide Glide, lowered that by about 2" and rides better than stock, go figure.
I have their drop in kit on the Wide Glide, lowered that by about 2" and rides better than stock, go figure.
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Architect (06-11-2024),
Mountainkowboy (06-14-2024)
#15
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98hotrodfatboy (06-11-2024)
#16
Ok, so I was able to install the 31-2503 Monotube cartridge in my 98 Fatboy with a 32 inch Softail custom tubes and sliders.. Which is the same as the FXDWG front end..I don't know why Progressive Suspensions will not state that they fit 99 down but they do..
The biggest issue I had was I previously purchased complete tubes and sliders from V,-Twin that leaked at the o-ring up top and the mount bolts that goes through the upper tree.. Didn't matter what I did I couldn't get it to stop leaking that's why I got the cartridges...
So I went to take them apart today cuz I got my triple trees back and the caliper side came apart no problem, It wasn't too bad.. But on the other side without caliper I had the hardest time to get it apart and I should have known there was something wrong because when I first installed them and put my Progressive Suspension springs in the one spring was a half inch lower than the caliper side setup, so obviously there was an issue with that..
No matter how hard I hammered on this thing with the sliding jerking motion that you try to do with the slider It wasn't budging anywhere.. So I took the tube out and slid a quarter inch wide spacer that I had for a 2.2 rear pulley down over the tube and then put it back up in the trees.. I then took my 18-in pipe wrench and put it down on top of the spacer and started hammering the **** out of it with a ****ing hammer to get it off and it turns out that the two bushings on the inside had moved which made it very difficult to get the slider off of the tube.. I ended up running the tube.. So now I need a new one..
Cheap *** V-Twin twin ****..
I'm pretty pissed..
Little hint out there for everyone else... Don't buy V-twin they suck... I also ran into other issues with those sliders.. When they tap the top for the cab They don't put it in the right jig and it ends up wider than the 41 mm tube which makes it extremely difficult to get it up into the trees, more junk...
However I did manage to get my new shaved trees on and one side together so now I just need to get one tube and I can assemble the rest of it..
I did manage to get one together and on but it was a lot of more work than it should have been. Little lesson here is don't buy **** OEM works great...
The biggest issue I had was I previously purchased complete tubes and sliders from V,-Twin that leaked at the o-ring up top and the mount bolts that goes through the upper tree.. Didn't matter what I did I couldn't get it to stop leaking that's why I got the cartridges...
So I went to take them apart today cuz I got my triple trees back and the caliper side came apart no problem, It wasn't too bad.. But on the other side without caliper I had the hardest time to get it apart and I should have known there was something wrong because when I first installed them and put my Progressive Suspension springs in the one spring was a half inch lower than the caliper side setup, so obviously there was an issue with that..
No matter how hard I hammered on this thing with the sliding jerking motion that you try to do with the slider It wasn't budging anywhere.. So I took the tube out and slid a quarter inch wide spacer that I had for a 2.2 rear pulley down over the tube and then put it back up in the trees.. I then took my 18-in pipe wrench and put it down on top of the spacer and started hammering the **** out of it with a ****ing hammer to get it off and it turns out that the two bushings on the inside had moved which made it very difficult to get the slider off of the tube.. I ended up running the tube.. So now I need a new one..
Cheap *** V-Twin twin ****..
I'm pretty pissed..
Little hint out there for everyone else... Don't buy V-twin they suck... I also ran into other issues with those sliders.. When they tap the top for the cab They don't put it in the right jig and it ends up wider than the 41 mm tube which makes it extremely difficult to get it up into the trees, more junk...
However I did manage to get my new shaved trees on and one side together so now I just need to get one tube and I can assemble the rest of it..
I did manage to get one together and on but it was a lot of more work than it should have been. Little lesson here is don't buy **** OEM works great...
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Architect (06-18-2024),
Mountainkowboy (06-19-2024)
#17
Guessing no lathe at your disposal, since easy enough to correct the slightly larger OD on the fork cap bolt OD (22) if prouder than the tube, and same goes for polishing the OD of it if left in not a smooth state, so the O ring on upper cap 21 will seal correctly (and even the same for O ring 22 to id of lower tube 32 as well.
Hence when rebuilding the forks, always end up chucking the slider tubes in a lathe to give them a quick polishing, before everything goes back together.
As for dropping the forks out of the lower triple tree, you can use tool up through the slot to wedge the slider tube opening wider, your not trying to club the cap like its a harbor seal. Hell, as you are dropping the tube down in the first place, get it about half way down, re-tighen lower triple tree to hold tube tight, then you use wrench on the flats on 22 to break is free, loosen the bolt and if cap was too large to drop through, could have just removed cap, to slider tube without cap, through the lower triple clamp.
Note, same with loading slide tube with cap hand cranked on up about half way, tighten bottom triple tree clamp to hold tube, so you can tighten cap 22 the rest of way up.
As for scuff in slider tube, if you drop pull the upper cap 22, to pull the spring, will notice that the tube in the lower assembly (18 and 20), even with the slider tube down all the way, that scuff area will not even get close to coming anywhere near the seal (31, or the upper rubber boot as well).
As for fork slider tube cap 22, would take about a min on the lathe to reduce the OD of it to flush it with the 41m tube, and even clean up the Od for O ring 14 if that is where you are having a leak there and not cap to slider tube via cap via O ring 24 and did remember to drop in the large thick rubber gaskets as well.
FYI, when installing the large washer 25 over slider bushing35 and using the seal driver to drive bushing 35 into the lower fork assembly 18/20, flat side of the washer goes down, with the rounded edge side up. The rounded side of larger washer 25 up, helps to flair the bottom edges of seal 31 out, to seal off better. Some of the kit large washers are not top round, and best to just reuse the OEM washer is not rusted, in the rebuild. If not a wear item, and just used to hold bushing 35 in the lower fork assembly.
Last edited by Dano523; 06-18-2024 at 02:45 AM.
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MotorSeven (07-23-2024)
#18
I'm not sure if there's any difference on the innards of the 99 down lowers compared to the 2000 up lowers.. I have a set of the early sliders for a Softail Custom that are the same as a Wide Glide and I'm going to attempt the cartridges and see what happens I'll let you know...
And for all I know progressive does not say if they make anything 99 earlier It's all 2000 up...
And for all I know progressive does not say if they make anything 99 earlier It's all 2000 up...
PS i meant to 86 WG not 89 in the previous post
#19
I was hoping to retain my original legs etc. and from what I can see looking at parts list my 89 WG fork tube remain the same in the Dyna up to 99. so, I suppose I'm looking for cartridges that fit up to 99 Dynas. I wonder though, if they are available, how do they account for the compression and rebound dampening though my style fork cap?
My Fatboy has the same upper mount as your Wide Glide. However the Wide Glide has 2" longer tubes than my Fatboy which I upgraded to a while ago but kept the front end 99 down.. So the 31-2503 should work in your legs as well...
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; 06-18-2024 at 07:24 AM.
#20
@Dano523
It's not the top plug that's giving me the problem.. It's whoever machined the threads into the top of the tube for the plug did not have it in the proper fitting/jig allowing the top of the tube to expand wider than the rest of the tube.. Poor machining..
The rest I have a handle on thanks...
It's not the top plug that's giving me the problem.. It's whoever machined the threads into the top of the tube for the plug did not have it in the proper fitting/jig allowing the top of the tube to expand wider than the rest of the tube.. Poor machining..
The rest I have a handle on thanks...