'. I got a wilwood GP310 rear caliper without even double checking the mounting hole distance. You need a new bracket to run these calipers, but they only make it for softtail models, so now need to figure out a new caliper mounting bracket.
If you figure that ^ out I would really appreciate pictures and dimensions
If you figure that ^ out I would really appreciate pictures and dimensions
Thank you
So far this is all I've found without going completely custom. Still need to make sure it'll work 100%, but it does have correct axle diameter and mounting hole distance, so it is promising.
Welp hit my first issue. After torquing down the inner primary bolts. the primary seems to have squeezed against the pulley and now it won't spin. Any idea on what to check/do? first thought is the spacer between the main drive gear bearing and the pulley is too big.
Welp hit my first issue. After torquing down the inner primary bolts. the primary seems to have squeezed against the pulley and now it won't spin. Any idea on what to check/do? first thought is the spacer between the main drive gear bearing and the pulley is too big.
Did you update the 32 tooth pulley with a 94 up because they require a different spacer to get more meat of the spines on main drive gear...
Did you update the 32 tooth pulley with a 94 up because they require a different spacer to get more meat of the spines on main drive gear...
Just looked at the part numbers. I thought I bought the correct one. Manual has part number 40210-85C, part I bought is 40210-85D. not sure what the difference in C and D is. They did supply a new spacer with the pulley that I am 99.5% positive I used.
Took the pulley off to see what all is going on. There is a big difference in the "c" and "d" versions of 40210-85. The D version has a shorter spacer and a ridge on the backside of the pulley itself. I am going to measure the new pulley and spacer to see if it matches the old pulley and spacer, make sure they match. If the new one is 1mm longer, then there is my issue, however I don't believe that to be the case. I have three spacers because the pulley came with one, as did the baker rebuild kit, and then the original spacer. the baker spacer and the one that came with the pulley are the same size.
I believe that my issue lies with my main drive gear, The pulley does not seem to be sitting all the way on it, and it's leading me to believe that my main drive gear is not pressed in all the way. the transmission shifts and changes gears with no issues though so I'm not really sure. I really dont want to have to take this all apart to press that in another half MM, but I guess will have to.
The part numbers confuse me. the pulley I bought has my OEM part number, only difference is "D" instead of "C". Then the new 94+ pulley has a different part number entirely but looks identical to the pulley I bought.
I did use the smaller spacer but I think I had it on backwards so the beveled edge was facing out. Not sure if that would create enough of a difference or not. Going to flip the spacer around and give it another shot before I make a bigger project out of this. Hopefully this is the fix and can chalk this issue up to my stupidity and inexperience. Do I need to worry about the bearing or the seal with removing and replacing the spacer like that?
The inside beveled edge goes in towards your main drive gear bearing and then the raised edge of the pulley goes against the spacer, this way you can put your retaining lock and nut smoothly on the outside surface of the pulley..
07-01-2024, 10:34 AM
