My OEM ignition pickup gave up the ghost yesterday on my way home from the Taco Truck. I still have the OEM insulated plates/covers on the cone. Seems to me a person would want to allow some heat to get OUT of the cone rather than insulating to keep it in?
Just ordered a Dynatek 2000i. Looks like a direct swap. Is there anything I need to prepare for that the Youtube videos don't talk about?
My OEM ignition pickup gave up the ghost yesterday on my way home from the Taco Truck. I still have the OEM insulated plates/covers on the cone. Seems to me a person would want to allow some heat to get OUT of the cone rather than insulating to keep it in?
Just ordered a Dynatek 2000i. Looks like a direct swap. Is there anything I need to prepare for that the Youtube videos don't talk about
When they were developing the D2ki, engineers experimented with components until they came up with the combination that they ran for 1000 hours in a 400 degree oven. Yes, nose cone gets hot to touch but they could never get anywhere close to 400 degrees before something else of the engine came apart. So don't worry about the heat. I've been running a nose cone module since 2008 with no ignition related issue, ever.
I've never watched a video on a module install. I'd suggest you forget any video you ever saw about it and follow the included instructions to the letter. It is a very simple install.
I have No Idea why one wouldn't simply replace the Pick-up with the Standard Motor Products 17522
Performance, I've already bumped compression up to 9:1 and added a mild cam. Might as well keep the performance upgrades going while I replace worn parts. Is there a benefit to NOT doing this?
Performance, I've already bumped compression up to 9:1 and added a mild cam. Might as well keep the performance upgrades going while I replace worn parts. Is there a benefit to NOT doing this?
Actually, Harley still has it at around $86. 32400-808.
Not sure how you can beat 31 years of reliability. Screwing around with the timing on your old girl is sorta non productive. Of course just my opinion.
What all does that so called upgrade do?
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 08-20-2023 at 02:43 PM.
Heat is an issue down in the nose cone for ignitions.. That's why the Moco put in all effect pickup and kept the ignition module remote.. I'm on my second D2Ki and the first one went because of heat.. Second one's been lasting me pretty long now and that's because I found a Chevrolet truck hub cap on the side road and I took the center tin adhesive logo off the hubcap and use just that as my cover for my nose cone.. It does let a lot of the heat out.. One thing I forgot to add was to make sure you check all your grounds engine to frame, regulator to frame, everything...
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; 08-20-2023 at 07:40 PM.
A Spark is a Spark... Performance is Measurable...and aftermarket is Certainly Not always an Upgrade!!!
When you are seeking Tenths of a Second in less than 10 seconds...you will check all the Hype!!!!
A Spark is a Spark... Performance is Measurable...and aftermarket is Certainly Not always an Upgrade!!!
When you are seeking Tenths of a Second in less than 10 seconds...you will check all the Hype!!!!
Yes spark is a spark but being able to set the amount of advance you need specifically for the type of build you have is critical and that's why most aftermarket units are a better choice..
My OEM ignition pickup gave up the ghost yesterday on my way home from the Taco Truck. I still have the OEM insulated plates/covers on the cone. Seems to me a person would want to allow some heat to get OUT of the cone rather than insulating to keep it in?
Just ordered a Dynatek 2000i. Looks like a direct swap. Is there anything I need to prepare for that the Youtube videos don't talk about?
Download the instructions and read them over. There are a few "before you install .." points they make. Install and set up is super easy.
Yes spark is a spark but being able to set the amount of advance you need specifically for the type of build you have is critical and that's why most aftermarket units are a better choice..
Proper ignition timing is mostly a function of combustion chamber design, so if you haven't changed heads to something with a differently shaped combustion chamber, there probably isn't much performance benefit to an ignition timing change.
Certainly there's a few ponies here and there to be had with a little more timing in almost any engine, but that power is best left on the table as you'll be tempting detonation to tune for it.