Curious if any of you have heated the cylinders after the finale hone and measured the bores to see exactly where the it's at..? As in normal running temp of the engine and what the difference was in the bore.. If anyone is "Bored" it would be interesting to see just how much these cylinders grow...
It would be almost impossible to get the cylinders to the right temp as the top is hotter than the bottom.. Heat the top with a map torch?
I can see the reason(s) for relaxing the plates and re-torque, especially after sizing .010 or more by cut or hone. First ones (OEM) ever I did, I was bluffed they were oval left/right instead of worn front/rear. Did the one, left the second in the plates overnight and behold, it was close to round the next morning. So re-plated the 1st one and it was f'd up several tenths. That's why always let them rest a while in the process.
Everyone has their ju-ju, methods and tricks and I'm a firm believer in whatever works for each individual and the circumstances make a difference in one's approach. (make a living/hobby/whatever) Main thing is, doesn't matter how you get there, a near perfect finished product in the end is all that matters.
You don't say which OEM. EVO or TC, I assume.
One of these cylinders was narrower at the top crosswise than the original bore by a couple thou but 0.005 than stock wider down the cross wise. Torque plates didn't help. Both sleeves slipped about 0.004" The other cylinder wasn't as bad and I suspect that it was due to it being seasoned. They were both 10 over as I had issues with the motor and SnS replaced one cylinder with I suspect a new bored and bored one of the cylinders I returned. I've been through 3 sets of SnS cylinders back in 99-2003 and was not impressed..
I did have a set of HD TC 88 ci take offs that were hourglass shaped by about 0.002 after 7500 miles. Seasoned cylinders stayed round much better.
One thing to note when using a dial bore gauge is that the cylinder need to be standing vertically if measuring out of round. You can measure taper when the cylinder is round and mounted horizontally as long as you gauge vertical. Try to use horizontal can be a source of errors. I pull the cylinder with plates out of the vise and stand it on the table to map the bore.
Don't think EVOs have piston jets. Maybe the later SnS motors have them?.
Don't know when they started, this page is from the S&S manual I got with the 111 crate, these are SA cases.
I read an article on machining cases to add them, can't remember where I saw that.
My SnS motor was made before the piston jets.. About 98 / 99.. Right around 2001-3 SnS came out with the 124 EVO. I suspect that they had piston oilers. Your manual seems to show only 1. Was there only 1? Around that time I built my 2000 FXDX into a 116 using SnS parts. Could have gone 124 but figured I'd be conservative.. Motor blew up 42000 miles later..
FWIW you got a nice manual. All I got was individual sheets for the cases, cams, oil pump, top end, carb. Yours being a later motor has the timing notches for the SnS ignition.
Got a buddy that managed to seize his 113 about the same time I pulled mine a part. His is being rebuilt also. It has notches on the flywheel. I didn't look to see if his cases have the oiler... His was still a 113 tho an not a 111.
There’s two jets.
My original 111 peeled a pinion bearing race a 27k miles, had two months left on a two year warranty, S&S provided a complete replacement. I lost track of actual mileage on this one, I know it’s in the high 30’s, starting to use a little oil & a little piston slap until it warms up, it’s time is coming, I can’t complain, this one got beat on since new.
I built this bike back in 2001 and it's been running strong since then.. It's been through 3 sets of fenders, 2 set of handlebars, probably 6-7 speedos, few taillights, and tachs a couple belts and the usual maintenance items. It's a higher compression SnS motor 10.8 to 1 with SnS 640 cams.. Made 124/120 in 4th gear back in 2003
Recently I was getting a valve tick when hot and bike hasn't been itself. It's got over 48000 miles on the motor. I tried new lifters and even some homemade rocker lockers. Didn't work.. On a whim I checked the crank runout on the left side and it was indicating about 0.012" Crank time... While I had to assemble this motor from a kit (non crate SnS motor), this is my first time doing an EVO. Have done a few TCs down to the cases and did shovels and pans almost 50 years ago.
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Last edited by bert111bel; 01-04-2023 at 01:40 AM.
Reason: wrong topic
01-03-2023, 07:04 AM
