Nice.. With the smaller exhaust valve were you aiming at better low end torque?
"It's a higher compression SnS motor 10.8 to 1 with SnS 640 cams.. Made 124/120 in 4th gear back in 2003"
The hump is part of the superstock head. It is an anti-reversion step.
I maybe should be a little more exact..
While this motor wasn't a crate motor, it was what SnS called their race motor. It came as a do it yourself kit. The crank was assembled but you had to install the timken and set clearance. All the parts were SnS. The heads, I believe were simply the 107 SnS crate heads which are the same as the SnS 113 heads except for smaller chambers. Same valves and springs. So basically they are SnS super stock heads. They have the nicer combustion chamber shape than the EVO D shaped chamber. It had the option of a super D or G. I went with the G as it's more streetable.. G has been modded tho. It has a bored to 1.85 venturi and one thunder jet. AC has a 0.6" taller KnN.
The crankcase and cranks are at a local machine shop that specializes in older HDs. The guy has been around for over 25 years doing HDs. In fact his first TC cylinders that he bored were of my FXDX when I went to 95 on it back in 2001..
Last edited by Max Headflow; 11-15-2022 at 06:17 PM.
While the crankcase and crank are out, need to work on the top end.
The heads are in good shape. Guides are work may 1/2 thou.. Valve springs were toast. Set height they measured 140,150, 150 and 162 lbs. Stock is 170.. Made a seal puller as I was tired of trying to get them off with a channellocks and a screwdriver.
Anaerobic sealer, Loctite 518 or Permatex 51813 gasket maker, is what you want to use to seal the cases.
This is what every 2 stroke outboard motor crankcase ever made is sealed with, Evinrude sold it under the name Gelseal, anyway, it only dries in the absence of air, any that is squeezed out on the outside wipes right off, any inside is washed or dissolved by the oil, no solid pieces floating around to plug orifices.
The directions say to lay out a bead like in the video, but I find with tight fit machine surfaces, its better to spread the bead out thin with your finger, it doesn't have to be that thick, and way less squeezed out.
Anaerobic sealer, Loctite 518 or Permatex 51813 gasket maker, is what you want to use to seal the cases.
This is what every 2 stroke outboard motor crankcase ever made is sealed with, Evinrude sold it under the name Gelseal, anyway, it only dries in the absence of air, any that is squeezed out on the outside wipes right off, any inside is washed or dissolved by the oil, no solid pieces floating around to plug orifices.
The directions say to lay out a bead like in the video, but I find with tight fit machine surfaces, its better to spread the bead out thin with your finger, it doesn't have to be that thick, and way less squeezed out.
I'm a firm believer in Yamabond for case sealing, 40 plus years yet to have a problem with it. Use Permatex products for a lot other stuff but not cases.
Looking good... Should be a nice touch to deck height.. What size are the combustion chambers?
They were listed as 84ccs (IIRC). CR was close to 10.8 to 1. Don't remember if I checked them on the initial assembly 22 years ago but they will get checked this time.
I'm a firm believer in Yamabond for case sealing, 40 plus years yet to have a problem with it. Use Permatex products for a lot other stuff but not cases.
Honda bond is pretty much the same stuff. Use a thin layer.. Originally I used Hylomar on this case which was recemented and was listed case a sealer but leaked after about 10K. I've been using Three bond up until the tube dried out.. Honda bond seems the same gray stuff as Yamabond and threebond. Used it on the last motor..
11-15-2022, 06:16 PM
