Sporty pins have always been the go to because of the available interior sizing - when we road raced buells in the early mid 90s tool steel tapered 120 to 90 wall was always available @ 58 grams spiral held twins both sides we cut the round out and added distance for the doubles then we went to crasidium < forgot the spelling 34 grams and 080 wall piston skirt was 1 inch from the deck and only 1 1/2 wide 90 to the pin the heat made us go to nicalsell finish < spelling again no iron sleeve as the OEM stuff would bend and twist because of the heat at sustained hi rpm we also because you could not move the engine height as it was the set for suspension location we de stroked it and over bored to to 81 cubes 3 - 3/4 bore we did not have bee hive valve springs then we knew they worked as the 1940s on Indian chiefs has them in the rear shocks and the ride is far and above a Harley - we accomplished 3 USA national championships in 5 years 1995 to 2000 - stupid money 12 races a year all over the place and a fresh engine every race cold and wet April and oct rain to just real cold loudon New Hampshire
After I cut the choke it hits more on one cylinder than the other. Not an issue if I richen the idle fuel a little. This bike did the same thing when I built it 23 years ago. When the motor gets hot, idle smooths out.. Second start.
FWIW DON'T USE SILICONE O RINGS FOR CARB O RINGS!!
They don't like gas and swell up.. I went in to increase the Int jet size and found them swelling up.. Replaced with Viton..
Originally Posted by Max Headflow
Finished the carb. Still need to replace the Tjet hose and setup the tjet air bleed..
I cut the throttle shaft in such a way that I think it will keep from cracking.. O rings came from McMaster, soft silicon.. It was good to have a sample carb to get the throttle blade assembled right.
03-07-2023, 06:30 AM
