Hi guys I’m planning on replacing the wheel bearings in my 94 fxdwg, I found this tool on Amazon: MOSTPLUS Wheel Bearing Removal and Installation Tool Compatible with VT102 Harley Davidson | Pullers and Installers with 3/4 inch I.D. 1 inch I.D. and 25mm 94134-09 https://a.co/d/6WQMrQ9

does anyone know if it has the right size bushings? I’ve been searching for the id and od aspects for the bearings and google wants to keep that s**t a secret. Is it 3/4” id on this era of bikes?

Thanks in advance

 

3/4" ID yes
I have always used a Hunk of PVC pipe and a Mallet... so, No Help
do Not forget to check endplay...Carefully
Edit; BTW you really need a Bearing "Race" tool...as these are "Cup and Cone" Bearings in 1994

 

The tool you mentioned will NOT work. They are for Twin Cam sealed bearings

I have spent nearly half a day, ruined numerous high quality punches and almost destroyed my wheel trying to get those races out. Do not try to "make do" with anything except the correct tools... and even then, they can be a pain to remove and replace.

https://www.georges-garage.com/produ...ver-installer/
https://www.georges-garage.com/product/driver-handle/
https://www.georges-garage.com/produ...driver-handle/ (you can get by without this piece, but works a lot easier if you have it)

 

Didn't notice FXDWG, just saw '94 so I may have spoken out of turn... or ignorance. The above tools are needed for bearing races in a cast wheel but maybe not for a spoke hub.

 

Respectfully Disagree.. If a Blind Race Puller, won't get it.. I treat em like a Steering neck Bearing.
Worth searching the procedure, but basically I weld a bead around the inside of the race, and it literally "pops" out.

 

Yeah, a 6013 @ 90 amps will shrink things loose in a bore every time

 

OP, why are you replacing the bearings?

As has been mentioned already, these are serviceable tapered roller bearings. A clean and re-grease with each tire change, and they will last the life of the bike. These aren't like later model ball bearings where regular replacement is required.

If you've inspected yours and they are indeed bad (indicated by any pitting or spalling on either the rollers or the races), then by all means, replace.

But if you're thinking of replacing just because, my $0.02 is you don't need to.

 

Properly maintained with annual maintenance, the Timken bearing is probably the best bearings they ever made for the wheel bearings.. they actually go back in use to the '60s '70s... Cars and bikes, maybe even earlier... Most reliable bearing ever made...

 

^^ and trailers Still
As said, they last nearly forever.
Only bad ones I have seen were power Washed.... Pushed Water past the Seals... Don't do it

 

I think you are right on with this advice, but I just can't get past the mentality that wheel bearings are a frequent wear/replace item. I can remember dozens of situations at multiple dealerships and independent shops over the years where either my or a buddies bike was in for service and they mentioned a bad wheel bearing. Like this happened so much at so many different places that I don't think it was shady sales practices to add $30 to a bill. I feel like at least one of my wheels got a new set of bearings each season.

To this day I replace the wheel bearings anytime I get a used used bike regardless of what they look like. I don't even inspect them, as soon as I get a bike home I order front and rear sets. Am I crazy? Maybe. The irony is I don't even know if I would immediately recognize the symptom of a bad wheel bearing and don't think I know anyone who has ever had one go. Funny how some things stick with us even if they may not be logical.