Yup, ive been messing with the return cable just to make sure it wasnt an issue. Linkage on the carb is moving freely stop to stop so I think its fine. Just something I hadn't experienced. Never had the issue with the super e, but that was a different bike altogether.

As for idle rpm, if i have pressure at idle, I'm happy. If you remove the rocker box tops and run it, youll see it gets very messy, even below 1000 rpm.

 

Make sure both cables are adjusted properly.

 

Also Id give the carb a good cleaning check for any vacuum leaks, enricher is working properly, check jet sizes, and make sure idle mixture screw is set properly

 

I agree, and I'm going bring up intake manifold seals...especially if they have some age on them.

Not saying that is your problem, and I am reading some really good answers to your problem, but, if the seals are old, and if your going to remove the carb, might want to add the seals to the to do list.

These bike are old. They need some love every now and then. YD

 

I just did a complete top end build so everything is fresh and not leaking. I confirmed this by spraying starter fluid around the intake while running...RPMs didn't blink. I will continue to keep an eye on it to see if it changes.

 

If you set your idle speed closer to what it "wants" to be (950-1000) you'll see it stay much more consistent. But you'll most always have a high idle when coming off high speed running to a stop for some short amount of time. These CV carbs aren't like the others, they need that idle speed to maintain the intake volume of air they are designed to operate with.

 

Mine had an inconsistent idle. Ended up bein the VOES under the tank. easy to check with a meter.

 

That is also a good point

 

I was kinda thinking that. It seemed like it was hanging on "advanced". When it came down to idle speed it seemed like a switch.

I just fixed a ground problem (speaker interference thread)...maybe I killed two birds with one ground? I'll know tomorrow night.

 

It is exactly like a switch, it's either closed or open. It should be in advanced mode when idling and if it's not, consistent idle speed is never found.

With the ignition retarded at super low engine speeds, it'll sit there and potato potato potato just like in your video on the other thread. It does sound great by the way...

When the idle is set so low, the voes doesn't get enough constant vacuum and will be open and retard the ignition or flutter in and out which makes the timing go up-down-up-down so quickly it doesn't know where it wants to be. A vacuum leak will do the same thing but doubtful you have one or it wouldn't start and run so easily at such a low rpm. Regardless what your tach says, that first video, I'm guessing it was idling about 450 rpms.

And no, what you did with the ground wire for the headlamp will have zero effect on your idle or voes operation.