97 road king 70k miles
runs for 40 minutes or so and will intermittently shut Off, cycle Ignition bike will run for 30 seconds then die out again. Already replaced fuel pump stator andl rectifier. Crank senor the issue?
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CPS would probably give you a code. FI or carb? Folks more knowledgable than me will chime in shortly...unless they're all out Sunday riding. Ken

 

Sorry, bypassed the fuel pump mention.

 

Thanks for the reply
Its fuel injected the mm
not throwing a code
Were codes able to be read on the odometer in 97?
​​​​​97or do we need a scanner?

 

Sorry, don't know about the MM fuel injection systems, but it sure sounds electrical.

Like a certain electrical component is over heating. Not sure if the 1997's suffer from the "brown goo" problem with ignition sensor plate of the slightly earlier models, but that would be worth while to check.

The other thought is your coil, but a bad OEM coil is rare, but not so rare with the cheapy aftermarket ones. Good luck

 

If you have stock tach then yes, you can read the codes. Should be a post adout that, maybe in the first page of evo forum. I explain it, but a reply further down does it better.
. Could be an engine temp sensor, likely, or, if you have brown or tan goo running out of the wiring hole at the bottom of your rightside nose cone, could be cam position sensor. If you still have rivets holding the cover plate, it still has the original CPS. Had to replace original on my 98 at 42,000 miles.

 

If you have a troouble code stored, your check engine light will go on after start for 5 sec. or so.

 

Thanks for the replies all!
It looks like its the cam position sensor...there is brown goo on the wires in the nosecone, he's going to change that and hope for the best!

 

MS SPA3 is what you want, although you will give up the bike shutting off on its own if you lay it over.
When you install a MC spa3 on your bike, will be using the single fixed holes like the old sensor was using, and not the timing slots. Hence the MM FI bikes have a differ cam sensor cup than the Carb'd bikes, so fixed holes on FI install of either the OEM 95B, or MC SPA3 sensor for around $50, and will not have to play with timing.

As for the stock cam position sensor with tilt kill switch,
The OEM 95A sensor had the brown epoxy coating, and the updated 95B sensor will the epoxy black instead.

As for the extend of how much the sensor epoxy melted, will tell you the condition of the inner cam bearing as well.
Hence the more the cam inner bearing is worn out to create more heat, the more it will melt the epoxy on the sensor.
If you have a full melt down like the below, and don't just happen to live in Yuma, then it time to replace the cam bearing at the same time.

Note, if you take a close look at the board, its the top trace on the right hand side that is the problem child, since it uses the solder through channel that gets the trace to the other side of the board, and can see that the trace connection to the through solder hole channel is problem child with question connection. Since the board is plastic riveted in place, no clean chance of pulling the board to do a trace wire repair to the board to save the sensor. I Bring this up, since just had to rip apart a Dewalt 20V battery for the same problem, but at least on the battery pack, was able to de-solder the board from the battery packs to do a trace repair on the through solder channel fro side to side of the board to save the battery pack.

As for if the cam bearing fine, and the 95a just going south from normal engine heat, sensor melting should look like this.

Note, since both sensors are using the timing slots, both of these sensors are mounted on carb'd motors. Again, the MM FI will have the cam position sensor install on the single round channels (not the timing slots), since the MM FI uses a different cam sensor cup that the carb'd bikes.

As for installing either, reach down just below your rear break pressure switch, and the connector will be on the bottom of the wires (just above the hole in chassic plate with hole to drain the oil). The push tab is on the ECM side that you need to push in, as you are pulling that side towards the back of the bike. Once you have disconnected the connector from each other, then pop the front side connector off the frame, pop the two wire loom loops open, then use a pick tool to remove the 3 end wire connectors from the plug (make a note of which wire goes to which connector channel). The wire is retained on the nose cone via two bolts, but you don't need to pull the bolts/retainer all the way off to pull the wire through/pull the exhaust to pull the nose com retainer plate all the way off.

From here, drill out the rivets of the timing plate cover to remove the V2 cover, used a philips screw driver to remove the timing cover back plate, and then you have the Hex bolts that is holding the cam position sensor in place via the round channel holes. Now reverse everything that you just did to install the new cam position sensor, and on the points plate backer plate, tap the two rivet hole to 10-32, go pick up some SS button head hex head 1/4" long bolts, and use them with some 242 loctite to reattach the V2 points cover.
Note, on the 10-32 SS button head bolts, chuck them up in a drill and use some brasso to gleam the heads of them.

If you want to use rivets again to reattach the points plate, they need to be the closed end ones that the center rod will not fall out the back side once the rod snaps.
https://www.stanleyengineeredfasteni...ands/masterfix

 

From a distance it is missing information.
What does shut off mean to you?
Engine turns OFF while in gear and rolling and all lights stay ON ?
The Bike shuts totally down like you turned key switch to OFF? All lights OFF?
The Bike turns OFF like the run/stop switch was flipped? but headlight is ON?
Does the bike NOT turn back ON if it was rolling and in gear? Kinda/ sorta like a jump start?
A CAM sensor melting while very common will give a lot of warning and it is mostly at start up with difficult starting (lots of cranking) but not a problem once rolling.
If melted it should be replaced.
On the other hand a CRANK SENSOR 32447-95 (do not confuse name with cam sensor from above) has a push and twist connector that can become loose.
If the CRANK sensor connector is loose the bike will run fine but if it hits a bump the engine will shut down due to loss of contact at the connector.
If bike is in gear and bike is rolling then bike may restart if it is on a smooth road .
The repair/ fix is cheap since all that is needed is a couple of cable ties in order to secure the connector. Do NOT purchase a CRANK sensor.
The CRANK sensor itself is located by oil filter and then wire wraps around motor and goes to computer with wire connector being located behind a side cover about 12 inches from computer.
Black Connector and Black wire are about a pencil thick.
A clean and simple check is to start bike and once warm-up is completed take a rubber mallet and introduce vibration by hitting hard parts like axle nut, bottom of floor boards, frame near battery, engine guard or clutch side handle bar end.
The bike will shut down due to vibration induced loss of contact or just locate connector and confirm.
Many techs and riders have scratched their head on this one and the frustration caused some to spend money and go carb when the fix/repair was simple.
Here is a link that might help you to identify parts:
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.....asp?make=hdmc