Metal Shavings in Oil Filter (after collapsed lifter)
#1
Metal Shavings in Oil Filter (after collapsed lifter)
I had a lifter "collapse". (I will add a picture from my 'phone but I hate trying to type on the tiny screen...)
I went to change the oil filter (no, I have not started the bike since replacing the lifters) and there are metal flakes (magnetic, bright shiny steel colour) in the filter - lots of it.
Please advise what I should do next.
Thank you, in advance.
I went to change the oil filter (no, I have not started the bike since replacing the lifters) and there are metal flakes (magnetic, bright shiny steel colour) in the filter - lots of it.
Please advise what I should do next.
Thank you, in advance.
Last edited by Ghostultramarine; 05-15-2021 at 11:13 PM. Reason: Adding picture
#2
The following 3 users liked this post by Dr.Hess:
#3
It really depend on how badly worn the lifter was, and how long. What does the cam lobes look like? Since you pulled the lifters out, I would open up the cam chest to inspect, then you will know if you can clean it out and do what Dr. Hess suggested. This is a tough call. Some guys will tear the motor apart and clean, and others will try to clean out as much as possible and hope that nothing got into the crank. I gambled and lost on this one. I might be bias on the pulling everything down and do a thorough cleaning, and if there are a few miles on the bike, it would be a cheaper refresh then new engine.
#4
#6
I had a lifter "collapse". (I will add a picture from my 'phone but I hate trying to type on the tiny screen...)
I went to change the oil filter (no, I have not started the bike since replacing the lifters) and there are metal flakes (magnetic, bright shiny steel colour) in the filter - lots of it.
Please advise what I should do next.
Thank you, in advance.
I went to change the oil filter (no, I have not started the bike since replacing the lifters) and there are metal flakes (magnetic, bright shiny steel colour) in the filter - lots of it.
Please advise what I should do next.
Thank you, in advance.
#7
Just to be safe I am going to pull open the “nose cone” and take off the oil pump.
The oil pump is an S and S and I want to clean it out and check it to be safe.
I ran a magnet on a flexible extender around the oil tank and no metal filings.
The filter did not have a lot a lot of miles on it.
I was just not expecting to see the metal.
The lifter had had been ticking for a while, then it got louder and louder (trying to ride home on the highway) then very loud and then the engine stopped. I trailered it home.
The tappet screen was perfectly clean.
The oil pump is an S and S and I want to clean it out and check it to be safe.
I ran a magnet on a flexible extender around the oil tank and no metal filings.
The filter did not have a lot a lot of miles on it.
I was just not expecting to see the metal.
The lifter had had been ticking for a while, then it got louder and louder (trying to ride home on the highway) then very loud and then the engine stopped. I trailered it home.
The tappet screen was perfectly clean.
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#8
Hopefully the oil filter captured everything…..but, inspecting the cam chest would be a good idea.
I’m assuming everything is stock since the rivets are still there. If that is the case, at least change out the cam bearing to the Torrington. Also a good time to change the cam if you’re interested, but maybe required if damage occurred.
But, if you’re on a budget…..stick to what Dr. Hess said.
I’m assuming everything is stock since the rivets are still there. If that is the case, at least change out the cam bearing to the Torrington. Also a good time to change the cam if you’re interested, but maybe required if damage occurred.
But, if you’re on a budget…..stick to what Dr. Hess said.
#9
Hopefully the oil filter captured everything…..but, inspecting the cam chest would be a good idea.
I’m assuming everything is stock since the rivets are still there. If that is the case, at least change out the cam bearing to the Torrington. Also a good time to change the cam if you’re interested, but maybe required if damage occurred.
But, if you’re on a budget…..stick to what Dr. Hess said.
I’m assuming everything is stock since the rivets are still there. If that is the case, at least change out the cam bearing to the Torrington. Also a good time to change the cam if you’re interested, but maybe required if damage occurred.
But, if you’re on a budget…..stick to what Dr. Hess said.
It looks stock, but isn’t. There’s a cam with Torrington.
I use Twin Cam oil filters for the extra filtering.