Installed the rear wheel this morning. I did pull the seals and bearings, greased em up and new seals. It did have one shim on the sprocket side, it had a shoulder and I put it in with the smaller end facing the smaller end of the bearing.

Everything lines up perfectly with the brake pads, sprocket, but when I tighten the outer lock nut, if I go past 30 lbs, the wheel gets a bit stiff.

I didn't pay attention on the shim when I pulled the axle. Is it possible the skinny end of the shim goes into something.

 

The small step on the shim goes towards the bearing, in-between the bearing and inner spacer, the step is there so the shim does not contact the bearing cage, there's usually, but not always more shims than just the stepped shim, if you didn't reinstall all the shims, the bearings would be tight when tightening the axle.

Here's a search on bearing endplay,

.https://www.hdforums.com/forum/searc...rchid=47901927

 

And additional shims go on the flat side of the stepped shim, between the stepped shim and inner spacer

 

Sounds like your end play needs to be reset.
Bring it by the house and I'll show you how to do it if you want.

 

The reason H-D (and many other vehicle manufacturers) use ball-races for wheel bearings is because tapered rollers need setting up, which routinely requires installing then adjusting and refitting them. A change to new bearings is almost guaranteed to require that touching ceremony and expecting them to run right without reshimming is not something we should put any money on.....

 

That's a great offer! The reason H-D (and many other vehicle manufacturers) use ball-races for wheel bearings is because tapered rollers need setting up, which routinely requires installing, then adjusting shims for end play and refitting them. A change to new bearings is almost guaranteed to require that touching ceremony and expecting them to run right without resetting is not something we should put any money on.....

 

I'm 99% positive I put it back together the way it came out. The only replacement was the seals. That leftover 1% will win out and i'll pull it out, clean everything up and reinstall.

correct me if I'm wrong. My steps after greasing the bearings

sprocket side, single shouldered shim, large side in first, skinny end will be against bearing
both side bearings
both side new seals, greased up inside the groove, seated
both side spacers
with floor jack, lifted wheel into place, guiding rotor side gently against brake rotor bracket
on sprocket side, guiding anti seized lubed up axle through a bit, inserted longer spacer with groves facing outward all the way through, rest of hardware on rotor side, tightening axle nut while spinning the wheel. Anything beyond 30 lbs the wheel slows way down on spinning.

 

Good thing that with tapered bearings and good grease you don't have to change the bearings for a very long time!!!!
You do have to repack them but you shouldn't have to change them.

 

Are you doing your test with or without the brake caliper installed?

 

Everything on during the first run. The pads have about 3/16 each and with the wheel spinning on occasion you can hear the rotor touch. No fluid in anything on the bike right now.