Sorry I was rude.

 

JustDave13, takes a lot of guts to apologize. No hard feelings brother.

randy

 

Ok, just for gits and shiggles, what CV carb would work on this 86 xlh and who has one cheap?

Randy.

 

When I battled the carb on Dr.Linda's bike, I tried:

Original carb - too lean.
Screaming Eagle - too big.
S&S Super E - too big, although this was before S&S changed their transition design to be adjustable

Then I went to Megasquirt EFI and Dr.L says it's like riding with an automatic transmission. Put it in a gear and go. The CV's came out later, and the easy button would be to find a CV off of a later Sportster of the same displacement you have now, like 883 if that's what yours is, or a 1200 if someone has changed it, etc., and get the whole set. Try ebay.

 

I really my Mikuni. I have it on a 72 XLCH. I have a Klein butterfly on a 71. The Mikuni runs better. When mounting carbs it really is a two person job. You also need a support. I have found that lining everything up and having an assistant press on the carb when you tighten the clamps will work. I also have had luck using black silicone (thick) and setting everything up and letting it dry over night.

To Dr Hess's point, I understand that there is nothing like a CV carb on ironheads.

 

Intake manifold at jugs, easy fix.

Put 43 and 44 on flat surface and make sure not bent. If end bent inwards, will not allow the rubber gaskets to be drain in all the way to seal off correctly.

Clean the sealing ring surfaces on the intake section, then use silicone grease on the ends, on the gaskets 45, and the mating surfaces for the gaskets on 43 and 44.

Now as you install the works, make sure to center the Y between the two jugs, and the silicone grease on the surfaces will not only condition the rubber of the gaskets, but allow them to slip into place against the jugs correctly as well.

If problem is on the other side where carb bolts up, break out some sand paper to put on a lapping plate,and lap the surface flat. Same goes for the back side of the cab, if the leak is there. Also, a little silicone grease on gasket 17 will allow it to swell, and helps to seal off so you don't need to double gasket.

So as stated, deal with the intake leak first.

As for leaded, verses not leaded, easy enough to add some lead additive to the fuel, to see if that is the problem.

If it is, then need to swap guides and seats to run off straight pump fuel, to ones designed for unleaded fuels, where the old ones needed the lubing of lead in the fuel to allow them to work correctly instead.

 

5 year old post? I hope the OP has it figured out by now...