Help with CV carb settings
#1
Help with CV carb settings
Ok like the title says, I’m looking for some general help in the settings on my CV carb on my bike and this is the first time I’ve ever been into the carb myself. Took it apart for a good cleaning and want some advice if I should stay with the jets in there already. My bike is a 1998 Dyna Wide Glide, motor is stock but with Vance and Hines pipes with the baffles still installed, stock cam, screaming eagle air filter and DynoJet kit installed from dealer. From what I can tell, the pilot jet is a 45 and the main jet is a 180. These were installed when the bike had Screaming Eagle slip on mufflers and I never changed them when I went to the Vance and Hines. Bike ran ok before I took it apart but I want to replace the jets and get rid of the DynoJet and use a HD emulsion tube back installed. They got buggered up while I was disassembling. So I ask should I stay with those same number jets or change them in anyway? I say the bike ran ok when warmed up with some deceleration popping in the exhaust and on warm up it would bog down if but not stall. Any help or advice is appreciated! Thanks before hand!
#2
#3
Short answer - yes. Those jets are a good starting point.
While you're into all this, I'd recommend pulling the intake and replacing the carb grommet and o-rings under the flanges. The spigots need to be cleaned (sanded) shiny and smooth as do the tapers on the flanges. The bore of the intake bung should be cleaned smooth and round. Use some grease or vaseline on the o-rings and the inner part of the carb grommet.
When you get into it far enough, you need to tell us what needle # you have, verify the slide has not been drilled out and that the slide spring is stock. Popping thru the exhaust can be an exhaust leak or lean/mismatched carb internals can also cause a decel whup-whup gurgle. A leaking starter valve (enricher) can cause all kinds of weird problems so check it too.
While you're into all this, I'd recommend pulling the intake and replacing the carb grommet and o-rings under the flanges. The spigots need to be cleaned (sanded) shiny and smooth as do the tapers on the flanges. The bore of the intake bung should be cleaned smooth and round. Use some grease or vaseline on the o-rings and the inner part of the carb grommet.
When you get into it far enough, you need to tell us what needle # you have, verify the slide has not been drilled out and that the slide spring is stock. Popping thru the exhaust can be an exhaust leak or lean/mismatched carb internals can also cause a decel whup-whup gurgle. A leaking starter valve (enricher) can cause all kinds of weird problems so check it too.
#5
Short answer - yes. Those jets are a good starting point.
While you're into all this, I'd recommend pulling the intake and replacing the carb grommet and o-rings under the flanges. The spigots need to be cleaned (sanded) shiny and smooth as do the tapers on the flanges. The bore of the intake bung should be cleaned smooth and round. Use some grease or vaseline on the o-rings and the inner part of the carb grommet.
When you get into it far enough, you need to tell us what needle # you have, verify the slide has not been drilled out and that the slide spring is stock. Popping thru the exhaust can be an exhaust leak or lean/mismatched carb internals can also cause a decel whup-whup gurgle. A leaking starter valve (enricher) can cause all kinds of weird problems so check it too.
While you're into all this, I'd recommend pulling the intake and replacing the carb grommet and o-rings under the flanges. The spigots need to be cleaned (sanded) shiny and smooth as do the tapers on the flanges. The bore of the intake bung should be cleaned smooth and round. Use some grease or vaseline on the o-rings and the inner part of the carb grommet.
When you get into it far enough, you need to tell us what needle # you have, verify the slide has not been drilled out and that the slide spring is stock. Popping thru the exhaust can be an exhaust leak or lean/mismatched carb internals can also cause a decel whup-whup gurgle. A leaking starter valve (enricher) can cause all kinds of weird problems so check it too.
thanks for the replies so far!
Last edited by ClifWideGlide; 08-06-2019 at 06:47 AM.
#6
I don’t think you have a dyno-jet setup:
dyno-jet uses a different sizing designation for their jets... wouldn’t be a 180.
My Dyno-jet needle had a circlip and grooves in the needle to adjust the height, as opposed to shims. The steel circlip eventually eats up the needle causing it (in my case) to fall off and block the needle jet from seating in the tube.
The CV needle doesn’t use a clip or shims... no adjustment.
dyno-jet uses a different sizing designation for their jets... wouldn’t be a 180.
My Dyno-jet needle had a circlip and grooves in the needle to adjust the height, as opposed to shims. The steel circlip eventually eats up the needle causing it (in my case) to fall off and block the needle jet from seating in the tube.
The CV needle doesn’t use a clip or shims... no adjustment.
#7
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#8
I don’t think you have a dyno-jet setup:
dyno-jet uses a different sizing designation for their jets... wouldn’t be a 180.
My Dyno-jet needle had a circlip and grooves in the needle to adjust the height, as opposed to shims. The steel circlip eventually eats up the needle causing it (in my case) to fall off and block the needle jet from seating in the tube.
The CV needle doesn’t use a clip or shims... no adjustment.
dyno-jet uses a different sizing designation for their jets... wouldn’t be a 180.
My Dyno-jet needle had a circlip and grooves in the needle to adjust the height, as opposed to shims. The steel circlip eventually eats up the needle causing it (in my case) to fall off and block the needle jet from seating in the tube.
The CV needle doesn’t use a clip or shims... no adjustment.
Last edited by ClifWideGlide; 08-06-2019 at 09:11 AM.
#9
As far as the needle goes, the one I pulled out looks to be worn and or pitted somewhat. I plan on replacing it also and I have a old needle that I think might have come out of the stock carb. It is a N8EA needle and looks like the one on CV Performance website
Last edited by ClifWideGlide; 08-06-2019 at 09:20 AM.
#10
The dyno-jet needle with the clip was brass in mine.
You can set your float while the carbs off the bike, put in the Jets you have with the stock needle and see how she runs.
I changed the main Jet with the carb on the bike... I tried a 180 and she ran great, but I thought the engine felt hotter than normal, so I put in the 185 main that I run now. Gotta be careful not to pinch the gasket when replacing the bowl!
I vaguely remember the screws to be JIS type (Japanese Phillips head) be sure to use the correct driver.
You can set your float while the carbs off the bike, put in the Jets you have with the stock needle and see how she runs.
I changed the main Jet with the carb on the bike... I tried a 180 and she ran great, but I thought the engine felt hotter than normal, so I put in the 185 main that I run now. Gotta be careful not to pinch the gasket when replacing the bowl!
I vaguely remember the screws to be JIS type (Japanese Phillips head) be sure to use the correct driver.