Is there anyone using a reduced travel clutch lever with a Muller ramp and ball? I realize as I get older that my hands are small and the reach out for the clutch lever makes my left hand cramp. The Muller and a teflon coated cable helped at first, but getting older justs sucks!

 

I have used a Muller in the past, however found it has limitations, as do all brands of that style of device. They work by using a different geometry in the ball ramp, which reduces the effort required at the lever, however they also extend the lever movement required to achieve the same lift at the clutch. Putting that a different way, when pulling on the clutch lever, the clutch doesn't have as much lift. On my 1990 Glide that was a real pain, as in traffic the clutch would quickly get hot and drag when stationary, making it impossible to select neutral.

Your bike is later than mine and may have a later spec clutch. On our TC88 we had a factory Muller-style device installed, to give my wife a fighting chance of riding the bike and that worked fine. It is just possible your clutch is similar to the early twincams, in which case a Muller may work. We could do with an expert to call by, with better knowledge of the later clutch spec!

 

I had the EZ clutch kit that reduced clutch pull by about 30% or so. The bad thing is it also didnt engage the clutch pack as well so my clutch would slip. Nuetral was tough and I had a 4th to 5th false nuetral.

 

I agree with both graham and brad. However if you need an easier pulling clutch your best bet is a Hydraulic setup... Not cheap but is easier to pull..

 

I installed the Muller myself a couple of years ago. My problem is my hand is small and I'm just catching the lever with my finger tips which causes the hand cramping. I'm wondering what I can do to reduce the lever travel with the Muller installed. Muller is specific about keeping OEM lever and cable because of the different dimension of the ball and ramp that reduces clutch pull. I did install a teflon cable at that time, but again, didn't help the cramping due to the lever reach.
How much can I reduce cable play to bring the lever a wee bit closer?

 

I've always had a tough time with getting the right amount of throw from the clutch release to properly disengage the clutch for better shifting and to find neutral. So what I did was I removed my clutch release cover and took my ramps and ball bearings out and measure them they are exactly 3/8 in (.375") so what I did was I went on to eBay and bought some 10 mm ball bearings which are .3937" and almost .020" larger in diameter which actually gave me more throw on my clutch push rod to release the clutch discs. With my dial indicator I measured before and after at my clutch release plate in my clutch basket and I picked up .016" more throw. No more problems shifting, no more problems finding neutral. I went from stock setup and .068" of travel to .084" of travel at the clutch pressure plate. You can try that if you want, because of the greater amount of throw for the same amount of pull on the clutch lever you should be able to put more slack in your lever without losing travel in the clutch.. Here's a video showing the amount of travel at the clutch release plate...

 

I have a hydraulic clutch set up for evo if you need. Comes with 2014 brembo master cyl fir front brake and clutch and a Joker Machine 5 speed hydraulic trap door.

 

Thanks for the offer, but I'm trying to avoid a drastic fix. I will keep both ideas in mind as I move forward though and may in time come back for these ideas! Thanks guys!

 

I actually just did this on my '04 TC88. It's an excellent fix! I had the same problem with an extra plate kit and I was using a reduced effort set of ramps. The 10mm bearings make up the difference between not fully disengaging to back to perfect. You are a genius for coming up with this idea!

 

Try a reduced diameter grip, it's worth about a 1/4 inch of finger tip length on the clutch lever.

56667-04 Left
56666-04 Throttle side