............ I think you have not found the right way your motor likes to be started...
I agree with that. And it sounds like it'd start great with a kicker, huh?
I can hear the bearings are bad in that starter and it's not turning near fast as it should with a good battery. Once you get the clutch stuff out the way, (I assume it's got the arm and cable in way from one of the earlier photos?) it only takes a few minutes to change the motor. They're about $75 off Amazon, last one I bought.
You may need a bendix, and never hurts to grease the shaft bearing in the gear housing. You can change that from the other side and only have to take the gear housing loose and slide it back a couple inches to line up the starter shaft after you've replaced the bendix, if you have to at all. And you may end up needing a solenoid, or rebuild that one.
No matter what though, I maintain you need a starter motor.
I agree with that. And it sounds like it'd start great with a kicker, huh?
I can hear the bearings are bad in that starter and it's not turning near fast as it should with a good battery. Once you get the clutch stuff out the way, (I assume it's got the arm and cable in way from one of the earlier photos?) it only takes a few minutes to change the motor. They're about $75 off Amazon, last one I bought.
You may need a bendix, and never hurts to grease the shaft bearing in the gear housing. You can change that from the other side and only have to take the gear housing loose and slide it back a couple inches to line up the starter shaft after you've replaced the bendix, if you have to at all. And you may end up needing a solenoid, or rebuild that one.
No matter what though, I maintain you need a starter motor.
Clutch, bendix, ratchet... people call them different things. The book calls them "starter drive gear unit." That's the gear that engages the starter ring on the clutch basket. There's another gear for speed reduction in the gear housing that the motor bolts onto.
Strong battery dropping to 10.5 on engagement indicates the motor is pulling too many amps. The "stall" heard on your video @ 15 and 20 sec marks are clearly a sign on a weak motor. There is a procedure for testing the amp draw but you need a 100+ amp inductive meter so.....
Buy a replacement part # 31570-73 install it and get back to us..., hopefully before next year.
Ok l know what your talking about now. Reduction gears.....I know exactlly what that is. Someone mentioned hydro lock but because of the volume of fuel needed to do that l don't believe that is the case, fuel isn't leaking into the cylinders, and right after it wonk crank the second time l give it a few twists on the throttle and if fired up....plus it's been my experience in autos you have to pull the plugs to empty the cylinders......but it could have been if it was flooding bad.
Ok got the new starter the other day, now need to figure how to get the gear off inside the case. All vidioslve seen there is a thin bolt .....this one has no bolt Nothing inside that gear end hole. It’s not alle or star In there, that fat washer looking thing has 2 flat sides and teeth marks in it from a pipe wrench or channel locks. So which way is off ? Right or left hand threads ????
Don't need to pull that gear off. Once you pull the starter motor you should be able to maneuver it enough to clear the actuator arms and just pull the whole jackshaft assembly out.
Your right probably didn’t need to pull it but I did and lubed everything well. Was easy to remove starter and install new one, buttoned up the primary cover, now have to fix some wiring. New starter at least looks good New starter installed Primary buttoned up
05-20-2020 | 08:37 PM
