The power plant is an evo in a 99 night train with 16k original miles. Quietest HD motor I've ever heard prior to cam swap. I cut the factors tubes against me better judgement so the top end is Original Equipment. Though I completely disassembled and reassembled the motor on S&S super stock cases for a solid foundation. I didn't install a Torrington cam bearing as there was a new one in the bottom end that came with the S&S cases. I installed an S&S breather gear, S&S lifters, S&S quickee push rods with push tube covers. The cam shim and gaskets came from the HD dealer. I was given the Andrews Cam by a friend that bought it for an upgrade then traded his evo for a TC. It was brand new in the box. I installed the cam at .020 , well within HDs spec. I set the quickees where s&s suggested and after more than a week and 5 or 6 attempts at disassembly, re-adjustment reassembly it got as quiet as it was going to. I looked up ev27 valve train noise and found literally over a hundred complaints. I remember reading on the woods cam S&S cams and crane cams and liking the numbers on the S&S. Having over 300 engine builds in my career as a course of being a heavy line mechanic the S&S numders made sense to me. So i looked up the 508 cam and the first thing I saw in the add was no excessive valve train noise. I ordered the cam for 119.99 and replaced it . I have no valve train noise now. I do totally agree that with the right springs in conjunction with more adjustment could have eliminated the issue but my thought is these are supposed to be 1 step up from OE "drop in cams" they should operate with the stock springs without issue. This is assuming a noisy valve train constitutes an issue. I'm 100% sure the cam wouldn't have hurt anything as S&S used a 240ish duration in the exhaust side of the 508 cam but shortened the duration and increased the overall lift on the intake side as it feeds and audible right out the runners through the carb. I didn't feel it was a noise I couldn't get rid of I felt it shouldn't have been there at all. As it stands I did All listed above with a hsr 42 Mikuni and dyna 2Ki ignition and a modified Ultima competition exhaust. In addition I just did a 200mm rear conversion using all 2006 night train parts which had a 70 tooth pulley which is 5 up from the factory 65 rear pulley on my 99 night train. This gearing seemed to effective double what I did in engine work. I love it. Its more than what I need. If Iever want to go further ill go Ultima big bore. You can buy a 113 unassembled for 3100.00 and I cant build a 96 out of mine for that price. At least not to my specs I can't. I just wanted to let the guy asking about the cams know that the EV cam 'though the most commonly installed cam' might not be the best option and that more homework and education regarding a given mod can never hurt.

 

I had an EV27 in my 98 king, Ended up removing it, found it to be noisy and came on a little to late for me. I went With a V thunder 3010. It worked great...

 

The reason for the noise on the ev27 is because of the ramp of the cam. It's a lot harsher on the valve train requiring stronger springs... It's pretty aggressive on the intake side at .182" lift tdc compared to the .156"@tdc on the EVL-3010.

 

I can understand removing the EV27 . I recently installed one in my 97 Electraglide.
Where it makes its power wouldn't be for a lot of riders. It suits my riding style tho. I bounce off the limiter too much now.

 

I am sure you and i arent the only people that removed the EV27 in favor of a compeditors product. Im glad i ended up getting one and installing it. Especially being as it was a gift and i had no investment save for the lifters push tubes and new covers which i would have installed with any cam i bought. The thing that gets me is the advise i received from two bike builders in indianapolis "these are personal friends of mine that were not making money off of my build" was to cut the push tubes get a steel breather gear and a torrrington bearing and install the EV27. Had i to do it over i would have pulled the tanks and the rocker covers and spent the push tube money on roller tip rocker arms. Thats a given on any factory partial roller motor i've built. It does wonders for other motors why not EVO motors. This cut the tubes and wrestle with putting adjustments where they hadn't been before spending 200 dollars on parts that afford you no gains as apposed to completing the roller motor and reducing internal drag and heat whereby you gain HP seems more in keeping with the goal. Im not saying adjustable push tubes dont have a point im just saying they dont add HP and they create a point where a mistake can be made that in the worst case could be catastrophic.

 

Update

Still waiting to take the bike into the shop. I'm blaming two reasons for the delay.

1) the day job and travel

2) my tech doesn't want to drill holes in my stock back plate and says I need to find an aftermarket aircleaner for the cam upgrade. Problem is neither of us can find one. All S&S and Arlen Ness stuff says it doesn't fit a MM evo bike. Several here say they are running the "Big Sucker". I can't find one that will work .Is there modifications needed to get these to work?

Also looked on Harleys site and ebay for the Screaming Eagle (29387-97B) air cleaner kit and can't find one except in England.

Last resort I guess is to drill the holes in the back plate myself. Crashone, how many holes did you drill?

 

Dude, Just so you know..... Roller rockers on an Evo are not going to get you more HP....

 

Try contacting Pinwall Cycle Parts They salvage bikes. You can try other used parts places as well.

https://pinwallcycle.com/

 

So how many holes did you drill?

 

I've been busy. I'll take a few pictures and post them.