No Spark On Front Cylinder
#1
No Spark On Front Cylinder
Hello, I've got a 97 Ultra EFI with a no spark at front cylinder issue. I removed the plugs, grounded them to the cylinder and turned the engine over. The rear plug sparks as it should. I swapped the plug wires at the coil (front plug wire in R side of coil) and the plug sparks. It appears the F side of the coil is not firing. I replaced plugs and plug wires just to be safe. The coil is dated 11/96. Is there anything else I should check before ordering a new coil? Thanks for the help!
#2
Just for your own knowledge it is a single fire system on EFI, pull your nose cone cover on the right side of the engine and see if the module is melted. It's common for it to change shape and the goo starts running out of it, it's tendency is to shut the engine off but controls each side of the coil to fire. You can ohm test the coil from ground to each side of the signal terminal to know if it is good.
Last edited by 1997bagger; 10-28-2018 at 08:21 AM.
#3
Just for your own knowledge it is a single fire system on EFI, pull your nose cone cover on the right side of the engine and see if the module is melted. It's common for it to change shape and the goo starts running out of it, it's tendency is to shut the engine off but controls each side of the coil to fire. You can ohm test the coil from ground to each side of the signal terminal to know if it is good.
#4
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Haslet Texas
Posts: 21,008
Likes: 0
Received 4,361 Likes
on
1,953 Posts
Just for your own knowledge it is a single fire system on EFI, pull your nose cone cover on the right side of the engine and see if the module is melted. It's common for it to change shape and the goo starts running out of it, it's tendency is to shut the engine off but controls each side of the coil to fire. You can ohm test the coil from ground to each side of the signal terminal to know if it is good.
Replaced the coil with an OEM one and it lasted 8 miles then it wouldn't spark either.
Replaced that one with a Dynatek dual fire coil and it's still going strong.
#5
#7
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Haslet Texas
Posts: 21,008
Likes: 0
Received 4,361 Likes
on
1,953 Posts
The following 2 users liked this post by texashillcountry:
Kingglide549 (11-02-2018),
tar_snake (11-04-2018)
Trending Topics
#8
Could be a wire broken wire in the harness or pick up module in the nose cone. Wires run from the nose cone module to the ECM and the ECM sends a ground to fire the coil in single fire, proper diagnostics is to ohm test the wiring from the pick to the ECM, ECM to the coil. It could have a loose connector for the nose cone module under the frame, a corroded terminal inside a connector body, doubt if it has a wire rubbed to ground because a short to ground would fire the coil. If your wires test good then a nose cone module and ECM remains, nose cone module is the next target with a ECM always the last diagnostic item.
THC, there is another test that exposes problem wires and even would work on a coil, the problem with a ohm meters is it will still pick up correct ohms if a connection is present but only has 1 strand of wire, using a head light connected to one end and supplying 12 volts to the other end, the load will expose a wire or connection when a Ohm meter passes it. This head light method is actually requested by Navistar tech support with today's vehicles using 5 volt references and a problem child exists.
THC, there is another test that exposes problem wires and even would work on a coil, the problem with a ohm meters is it will still pick up correct ohms if a connection is present but only has 1 strand of wire, using a head light connected to one end and supplying 12 volts to the other end, the load will expose a wire or connection when a Ohm meter passes it. This head light method is actually requested by Navistar tech support with today's vehicles using 5 volt references and a problem child exists.
#10
Last edited by snookie66; 11-03-2018 at 05:10 PM.