Curvemaker HD or VOES?
#1
Curvemaker HD or VOES?
See mods and year in my signature.
CV carb with a 48 slow and 190 main with CVP Velocity Needle. Bike is running good except for a little ping at 2800-3000 RPM's during light cruising throttle between 1/8 to 1/4 throttle, easy cruising on back country roads around 55 mph. Plugs look good and do not read lean. On the flat all is good, a slight grade will make it ping but as soon as I either back off, throttle it a little more, or downshift, it will go away. Yes, I know down shift is the way to stop ping, but the slight load increase without down shifting is what is causing my ping and I mean a slight load increase.
I have the Ultima 53-644 on curve #3 and premium fuel, still a hint of ping at mentioned RPM's and load.. Curve #4 and the ping is gone but it feels like curve 3 and 4 take something away from the power a little (seems to me it does). I know the advance curves under high vacuum is fairly aggressive with the Ultima. I have been studying the curves and comparing them to other brands.
So I am thinking with my mods, my newly replaced VOES (last year) either needs a slight adjustment, or I am thinking of changing the advance curves using CurveMaker, or both. The VOES is a 4 mm hg (stock for my Dyna) setting and was thinking of adjusting that in 0.5 mm/hg increments. My thought is, due to my current engine mods, I am pulling higher vacuum than "stock", so maybe I need a higher setting on the VOES.
My other thought is to customize a timing curve using CurveMaker that is low enough to "not ping" at that 2800-3000 rpm range, but still gives me more total advance at higher RPM's. It really does not ping (or I can't hear it) at RPM's that are lower or higher. So it sort of has me stumped.
An air/fuel ratio monitor is on my X-mas list, but by then the snow will be flying which puts me to next April/May. I thought about trying the above in the mean time. Looking for input. I can live with curve #4 if I have to.
I also have a few questions about the CurveMaker program if someone is interested answering. Thanks, YD
CV carb with a 48 slow and 190 main with CVP Velocity Needle. Bike is running good except for a little ping at 2800-3000 RPM's during light cruising throttle between 1/8 to 1/4 throttle, easy cruising on back country roads around 55 mph. Plugs look good and do not read lean. On the flat all is good, a slight grade will make it ping but as soon as I either back off, throttle it a little more, or downshift, it will go away. Yes, I know down shift is the way to stop ping, but the slight load increase without down shifting is what is causing my ping and I mean a slight load increase.
I have the Ultima 53-644 on curve #3 and premium fuel, still a hint of ping at mentioned RPM's and load.. Curve #4 and the ping is gone but it feels like curve 3 and 4 take something away from the power a little (seems to me it does). I know the advance curves under high vacuum is fairly aggressive with the Ultima. I have been studying the curves and comparing them to other brands.
So I am thinking with my mods, my newly replaced VOES (last year) either needs a slight adjustment, or I am thinking of changing the advance curves using CurveMaker, or both. The VOES is a 4 mm hg (stock for my Dyna) setting and was thinking of adjusting that in 0.5 mm/hg increments. My thought is, due to my current engine mods, I am pulling higher vacuum than "stock", so maybe I need a higher setting on the VOES.
My other thought is to customize a timing curve using CurveMaker that is low enough to "not ping" at that 2800-3000 rpm range, but still gives me more total advance at higher RPM's. It really does not ping (or I can't hear it) at RPM's that are lower or higher. So it sort of has me stumped.
An air/fuel ratio monitor is on my X-mas list, but by then the snow will be flying which puts me to next April/May. I thought about trying the above in the mean time. Looking for input. I can live with curve #4 if I have to.
I also have a few questions about the CurveMaker program if someone is interested answering. Thanks, YD
#2
#3
Your jets should be good for 80 hp but something to think about is you are on the needle when your issue occurs, until you get your AFR reader you may try and shim that needle up and see if it cures the detonation because #2 should run all day
#5
#6
I would start by disconnecting the voes and go from there... I know on my SE ignition module and my Dyna ignition module it's the green wire. Disconnect it and tape it off then go for a ride.. I do not use the voes any more because of that symptom. Light tip in detonation.... I also tried loading my own curves and it led to other issues. Currently curve 2, no voes and no issues.......
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; 09-19-2018 at 05:54 AM.
#7
“Light tip in detonation” is an excellent description to what I am experiencing.
Thanks for the suggestions regarding mid range and disconnecting the voes. That mid range fueling ran across my mind as well.
Disconncting the VOES seems easy enough for diagnostic purposes. Gonna give that a try first, then run it and see how it goes, then if needed or might do it anyways, tryneedle shim with and without Voes connected.
will there be a significant loss in fuel economy without voes? Thanks, YD
Thanks for the suggestions regarding mid range and disconnecting the voes. That mid range fueling ran across my mind as well.
Disconncting the VOES seems easy enough for diagnostic purposes. Gonna give that a try first, then run it and see how it goes, then if needed or might do it anyways, tryneedle shim with and without Voes connected.
will there be a significant loss in fuel economy without voes? Thanks, YD
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#8
Does the green VOES light on your ignition come on during idle and turn off when you twist the throttle? It should work that way.
Also is switch #1 off (down)? Report back the way the switches are set. Remember to turn off the ignition each time a switch is changed so the new setting will take effect.
Also is switch #1 off (down)? Report back the way the switches are set. Remember to turn off the ignition each time a switch is changed so the new setting will take effect.
#9
#10
Does the green VOES light on your ignition come on during idle and turn off when you twist the throttle? It should work that way.
Also is switch #1 off (down)? Report back the way the switches are set. Remember to turn off the ignition each time a switch is changed so the new setting will take effect.
Also is switch #1 off (down)? Report back the way the switches are set. Remember to turn off the ignition each time a switch is changed so the new setting will take effect.
Regarding VOES wire color, violet is what is used for my year VOES wire. Same with Ultima instructions...violet/purple is the voes.
Will follow up later today weather and work permitted. Thanks Gentleman, YD