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CV carb jetting

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  #1  
Old 09-08-2018 | 07:17 AM
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Default CV carb jetting

’97 FLHR: kerker slip on mufflers with stock headers, Screaming Eagle air cleaner, Screaming Eagle ignition, EV13 cam.

My gas mileage has deteriorated bit by bit through the last 3000 miles or so, and I recently noticed a sluggishness with throttle response and overall performance. (Felt very rich and the plugs were a bit sooty at the base of the ground prong, mufflers a bit sooty, and started getting backfires on de-acceleration)
In checking things I uncovered intake leaks at all three seals. The diaphragm had a hole, and the slide needle clip had come off.
I took the carb to a local Indy to install a V-Twin carb kit. He says he set the needle and mix screw to midpoint.
This carb had been re-jetted in ‘97 when the bike was new and has always performed nicely. I vaguely remember the slide spring being changed to a lighter version at the time. I thought the diaphragm material seemed thinner than what came in the kit too.
The jet sizes seem a bit weird; 45 and 150.

I haven’t reinstalled the carb yet, but just wondering if I should change out that main jet before reinstalling the carb. I’m not sure which spring he reinstalled or if there is a difference.
Any input from you tuners is appreciated.

Oh yeah, I’m not drilling a hole in my pipe for an AFR... lol

 
  #2  
Old 09-08-2018 | 07:57 AM
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That is weird. My 1200 Sportster when tuned took a 180 main, unless it's a Dynojet kit, they have weird jetting numbers. OEM Keihin jets are metric equivalents. IE: a 150 main is 1.5mm in diameter.

Backfiring on decel is a lean condition, not rich. Are you saying all the weird symptoms were from the air leaks and loose needle?

Overall, how does it run?

Ya know what you need to install?????
 
  #3  
Old 09-08-2018 | 08:21 AM
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Check your needle jet tip. The aluminum needle erodes with the use of ethanol laced fuels, over time. Compare it with a new jet needle (of same size/contour). If it's ANY different, replace it.

I can post a pic of a worn needle if you want.
 
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Old 09-08-2018 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Mattbastard
That is weird. My 1200 Sportster when tuned took a 180 main, unless it's a Dynojet kit, they have weird jetting numbers. OEM Keihin jets are metric equivalents. IE: a 150 main is 1.5mm in diameter.

Backfiring on decel is a lean condition, not rich. Are you saying all the weird symptoms were from the air leaks and loose needle?

Overall, how does it run?

Ya know what you need to install?????
yeah yeah, I’ve heard!

I wont know how it runs until I put it back together.

popping when you let off the throttle doesn’t tell me much, it could be rich or lean. It feels rich, but I’m nooo expert!! And yeah yeah I’ve heard, there’s only one accurate way to know!!!

I’ll look up the dynojet kit info... might be what was installed 22 years back.
 
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Old 09-08-2018 | 09:43 AM
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I guarantee decel popping is lean. Most likely from the air leaks you already found.

Button her back up and let us know how things are running. I'd advise a thin layer of oil on the intake seals as you install them. I've had them pinch and create leaks.
 
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  #6  
Old 09-08-2018 | 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Mattbastard
I guarantee decel popping is lean. Most likely from the air leaks you already found..
I’m not sure how you can “guarantee” that... but what do I collect if you’re wrong! You are probably right, but it doesn’t explain the sooty plugs and pipes. So much going on in the carb with the torn diaphragm and clip off the needle. Also the inlet passage jet from the bowl looked worn.
I guess I’ll put it back together and run her up the road. I may never know if she was rich or lean.

I was hoping for input on that 150 main. I would think that would make it run rich, but she ran for 21 years and 90k Miles without any issues. Maybe I’m overthinking things.
 
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Old 09-08-2018 | 04:56 PM
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Considering I've used the AFR meter you're resistant to install on multiple bikes, every time I've heard decel pops it was lean and the throttle was closed so....
 
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Old 09-08-2018 | 09:11 PM
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Decel pops usually means lean and or intake leaks, A 150 main sounds real small.
 
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  #9  
Old 09-08-2018 | 10:32 PM
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http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/8105.pdf
https://www.jpcycles.com/product/404...or-rebuild-kit

Dynojet jets have different threads for the DJ emulsion tube and won't interchange with the stock jets, nothing else different. The V-Twin kit is only showing a rebuild set up, not a tuning kit. If it is a Dynojet kit the jets will have DJ before the number stamped on them. You need at least a 185 main jet in there, 45 low if completely stock or a 46 which is harder to get.

You need to put the carb back on with the repairs, a new set of plugs in it and attack one thing at a time, most likely the items you found wrong was the issue. The only other odd thing that can cause a rich condition is the diaphragm in fuel petcock having a hole in it pulling fuel through the vacuum line if you have the automatic shut off petcock. You can check it with a hand pump vacuum with a gauge and see if it holds a vacuum.

Popping on decel is a lean condition igniting left over gases in the exhaust by excessive exhaust heat, stay with Mr Bastards recommendations and put it together, you have a known good fuel delivery system and then can adventure out from there.
 

Last edited by 1997bagger; 09-08-2018 at 10:34 PM.
  #10  
Old 09-09-2018 | 06:16 AM
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I put it back together and she’s running great. Starts easy and idles correctly.
I have an occasional pop on de-accel, but not at full throttle. It happens when I’m puttin’ 30-45 mph, accelerate through a sweeper or up a small incline, then ease off the throttle. If I’m running high rpm and cut the throttle, there’s no pop.

Next time out, I’ll fiddle with the mixture screw... I’ll try backing the screw out 1/4 turn or so to richen her up a bit and just see.

It’s funny how a bikes performance will decline gradually and you don’t notice it. My bike hasn’t run this strong in years.
 


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