Another option/consideration is the compufire series type voltage regulator. "Series" regulator instead of the stock "shunt" style. Reading the link below will explain the difference and let you decide. Not saying it is better or worse than the cycle electric products, my stator is a cycle electric and other than the rubber plug leaking primary oil at the end of it's second riding season, it is working fine. Kind of sux because that was the only reason I replaced the previous stator. Nice explanation of how the compufire regulator works in the link below, along with links to compu-fire product.

I have been using the compufire regulator with the cycle electric stator with out issue for 3 seasons now. I also have a "homemade" stator plug keeper thingy. YD

https://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php?topic=20426.0

https://compufire.com/harley/voltage-regulators.html

 

Nice read indeed. Didn't know these existed.

 

 

 

I would like to see a pic or two of your repair.

There has been a few posts in the past on how to do a fix similar to what you did. Solder the wires together, and use adhesive lined heat shrink to prevent wicking of oil up the wires, then filling the old connection hole in the block for the rubber plug with silicone. I suppose you could also put a weatherproof connector big enough to handle the amps out near the regulator so removal of the voltage regulator wont be a problem in the future.

I have all of these parts purchased and will do the same repair this winter. Like I mentioned, my cycle electric stator works fine except for the rubber plug at the block weeps oil.

BTW, after doing a little surfing, it turns out that the cycle electric voltage regulator is a "series" type regulator the same as the compufire.

Also found a post on another forum (link below) where a guy measures the amps on a stock shunt style regulator and then measures the amps on a series type regulator on the same bike (sportster) and same conditions. Turns out the shunt style was continuously putting out a fixed 26 amps AC (before the regulator) regardless of electrical demand, and the series type initially put out similar amps till the battery was charged back up then tapered down to just enough to meet the electrical load and charging requirements. (12 to 14 amps for his bike). He also measured temps of the regulator and the series regulator ran cooler with some discussion of the amount of work/heat/load the stator was putting into the primary oil/engine by the stator continuously running at max amps with the shunt type of regulator. YD

http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1648679

 

 

Nice! Looks like your stator wires are dry (no oil) wicking up in them, so soldering should not be an issue. Double layer of heat shrink is cheap insurance. That should keep you riding for awhile, YD