Daytona Twintech will give you lots of options for now and later.

 

Ultima ignition kit...160 bucks with coil and wires and ignition...Ive been using them for a few years. you have options to run dual or single fire, and different advance* curves. and complete control over the ignition with "dip switches" to set limiter etc. simply disconnect your stock system and install the Ulitma.

 

..... then replace the coil with another brand. Many reports of the Ultima coil going **** up.

 

Beemer...in the earlier production runs with the coil* which wasn't USA made, they did have issues. that was addressed about 3 years back... I have spoke with them directly ( I had one go bad myself with my first ultima ignition.. They have since gone to a company in the USA that makes them ...I have used( guessing) about 12-15 of them in builds over the last 3 years, and 4 in my own bikes ( 78-79 shovels 77 ironhead hotrod* and my 93 Evo)

 

That's good to know information. I knew they were made overseas, did not know they are made in USA now. Glad to hear the quality has improved. I have the Ultima 53-644 and have had no problems with it. I swear its the Dynatek 2000i with a different sticker. From what I understand it can be programmed with a special wiring harness/adapter. There was a guy selling data cable about a year or two ago on here ( thought on here) and or ebay. I also think there are some plans on the web on how to make one.

The counterclockwise (retard) and clockwise (advance) when rotating the module is good info, also what I found helpful is if the dot (advance mark on my 1994 EVO is a dot, some earlier and later years are different) is forward in the window view hole (forward of center or dot towards the front wheel of the bike) it is slightly retarded, center is dead bones on, and the dot floating towards the back half of the window view hole is slightly advanced. I don't think it matters all that much, but some might want it set perfect. It helps to know this so you know which way to rotate the module when the dot is slightly off.

I also recall someone saying the window is about 3 degrees, but I could be wrong on that info.

Then there is that plastic view plug. When I use it, I have to find a sweet spot or I wont see a damn thing. Sometimes I can see the dot right away, sometimes I can't and it takes awhile to find the spot where I can actually see the floating dot. Sometimes I have to turn the lights off in the garage and close the door, not a fun thing with the bike running, then there is the chance of getting the engine to hot while searching to find the dot... last time I timed my bike I had to break out the fan. YD

 

Simpler is better for stock and near stock builds and run the dual fire, single won't show you any gains off a race track or big engine. Brand wise I'm partial to Dyna for older iron..

 

Thanks......... good to know.

 

On the TDC issue. It is actually 5* degrees from center of the hole, and that's a lot.

There were always rumors about them being unbranded 2000i/p units,,who knows.
they ARE identical, and yes..you can reprogram using ( or used to be able to) Dyna's own software.

 

I know the SE programmable units are made by Dynatek. Confirmed that with a phone call to Dyna....