Decided to pop in some LED bulbs for my signals, thinking I might get lucky and the blinkers would still work.

No such luck.

Trying to decide what to do next?

1) Just go back to incandescent bulbs?

2) Install load equalizers?

3) ????

I'm not sure I see a lot of benefit to the LED's here. I had the idea try this when Johnny74 mentioned how his voltmeter swings wildly when the turn signals are on. Mine's always done that too, so figured give the LED's a go and see what happens.

Even without the blinking, it's obvious that the LED's draw next to nothing compared to the incandescents. Ok, fine.

But aren't the load equalizers just resistors? Seems like going through the exercise of installing those would have the effect of giving back whatever "savings" I have.

These new LED units certainly seem bright. That's nice. Kind of like to keep them.

Any thoughts?

 

Your exactly right. But if you go with LEDs all around the run and brake lights will be a lot brighter as well and draw very little power. I went with LEDS all around this past winter and really like the brightness. I ended up buying a kit from Kuryakyn that made all my lights including Tour Pack Run, Brake, Turn and gave me brake light modulator as well. Had to use 2 load equalizers (one came with module). Made the second one myself. Very easy to make your own if you decide to go with just a load equalizer.

 

Omaha,
Does your bike have that fancy module thingie or does it have a conventional blinker module like my bikes?

 

I'm sitting here burning my eyes out trying to read the wiring diagram.

Ugh. Small print. Old eyes.

If I'm reading this right, I think I should be able to get away with one equalizer on each side (right and left, that it). Is that how you did yours?

Do you recall the specs on the equalizer you used/made?

 

Not sure if the one I have counts as fancy, but it actually works pretty well. Gives you seven (more or less) seconds of blinking, then auto shut off. It's tied into the speedo, so they will stay on forever at a stop. (Actually, I think the trigger is something like five or ten MPH.)

Push both buttons, you get hazard flashers.

Edit: I should add, it is definitely a "module". Not the old-style automotive blinker module thing like my FXR had tucked into the headlight can.

 

Then you'll either need the "load balancer" thingies, which, yes, are nothing but resistors that simulate a normal bulb, saving you no electrical load at all, or replace the module with one of those aftermarket ones like, I THINK, Badlands. No direct experience with them, as I have the automotive type.

 

Can you double-check my calculations for me?

The way I figure it, there are two bulbs wired in parallel on each side (right and left, that is). The incandescent 1157 pull something like 27W at 13v, giving a resistance of about 6.3 ohms. Therefore the parallel circuit has resistance of 3.15 ohms and pulls 54W.

I think I've found the output wires on the module to each side. Assuming that for all practical purposes the LED's can be ignored, I should be able to splice a resistor into each of those leads to replicate the original load. Sound reasonable?

Normally I'd want to figure in a safety factor, but since these are blinkers, I figure the intermittent current draw will keep them from getting too hot anyway.

So bottom line: I can go right on the edge with a 3 ohm, 50 Watt resistor, or I can go up to a 4 ohm, 100 Watt resistor. I don't see anything available in between those two.

Does all that sound right? Can you think of a reason I would prefer the 3/50 over the 4/100 or vice-versa?

TIA

 

This is the one I used. http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/elec...oad-equalizer/ as far as the wiring goes, mine just plugs into the Run, Brake, Turn Moduel. It had 2 plugs for load equalizers built into it but as you can see the equalizer in the diagram is for both circuits. I guess I could have made one using bigger resistors? Never really thought about it at the time. Crazy story....I installed all my LEDs, New wiring for tour pack and run, brake, turn module and one equalizer. Worked great for about a month until I was on a 3k mile road trip in June and noticed one day after riding in the rain all day that my turns where not flashing. Checked and load equalizer had came off. Looks like the wires came loose from the resistors. Don't know if they got hot or just got pinched somehow. Checked every Harley dealer anywhere close to my route with no luck until one in Maine located one at a Honda Dealer for me. It was raining that day to so I waited till I got to Hotel to try it. Didn't work. So when I got home called up Kuryakyn and talk to one of their tecs explained situation. He says one should do it and that the one I bought must have been a bad equalizer so after emailing him a receipt he sends me another one. Install it still not working. So I decide to install the one I bought and the new one he sent and whola I again have turn signals. So I do some reading and decide to make my own to see if just the one would do it. No dice. The one I made works but it still take 2 to make them work. Well at least I got a spare in the tour pack now..

 

That's good stuff, right there. Thanks. It hadn't occurred to me to include some diodes and install them in parallel to the circuit. Seems like a better way.

 

Yeah, the best way is to use a plug and play system someone else already worked out. A 100 Watt resistor is not small. Neither is a 50. I bet that if you pull one of the bulbs on each side, the module would still work fine, and that would be around 6 Ohms. You might get b y with an 8 ohm resistor, which would be around 20 Watts. Assuming a 50% duty cycle, you might get by with a 10 Watt resistor without letting the smoke out. The resistors, of course, need to be in parallel to your LED's. The LED bulbs probably have some type of current limiting resistor inside them.

But, the easy way is to use a store bought unit. RHBB shows another example of a Kury product failing.

Oh, try superbrightleds.com for your resistors. They have it all worked out.