Cam in the bike id?
#1
#2
It's not too difficult to check. Is the nose cone cover plate factory riveted in still? This is a common sign that it has not been messed with, most of the time. Not saying that someone couldn't rivet the plate back on.
Checking what cam you have is easier, if you have adjustable PRs. You would adjust the PRs take the pressure off the cam, and then it's a few steps away from pulling your cam cover.
You would have to pull your front exhaust and possibly your right foot board, going off your pic. Once that's done, then you can loosen the Allen bolts on the nose cone. Gently tap the nose cone and get it off. Do not pry with a screwdriver. They come off easier with a puller, and you don't risk damaging the nose cone or case mating surfaces. Can find them cheap on eBay.
Checking what cam you have is easier, if you have adjustable PRs. You would adjust the PRs take the pressure off the cam, and then it's a few steps away from pulling your cam cover.
You would have to pull your front exhaust and possibly your right foot board, going off your pic. Once that's done, then you can loosen the Allen bolts on the nose cone. Gently tap the nose cone and get it off. Do not pry with a screwdriver. They come off easier with a puller, and you don't risk damaging the nose cone or case mating surfaces. Can find them cheap on eBay.
#4
If it's a 91 Evo it would have the stock L grind cam which was better than the Next grind cam... More lift and duration. Lift at the valve was .495". Lift at the lifter would be .3046". Pop a pushrod tube and get a dial indicator. Both intake and exhaust should be the same..
Or you can pull the cam. Not hard just Make sure you get a manual. Do you have adjustable pushrods?
Or you can pull the cam. Not hard just Make sure you get a manual. Do you have adjustable pushrods?
#5
#6
#7
Yep.
Pretty good "quick and easy" test:
- Verify that the "V2" timing cover is riveted on (as mentioned above)
- Pop the retainer thingy off of one of the pushrod tubes then pull the tube up from the bottom.
If you have a riveted cover and solid pushrods, it's all but certain you have the stock cam.
No matter what the timing cover looks like, if you have adjustable pushrods, it's all but certain you have an aftermarket cam, but it's anyone's guess which one.
Pretty good "quick and easy" test:
- Verify that the "V2" timing cover is riveted on (as mentioned above)
- Pop the retainer thingy off of one of the pushrod tubes then pull the tube up from the bottom.
If you have a riveted cover and solid pushrods, it's all but certain you have the stock cam.
No matter what the timing cover looks like, if you have adjustable pushrods, it's all but certain you have an aftermarket cam, but it's anyone's guess which one.
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#8
I might have read Iron1250's comment too quickly. All push rod have upper and lower cover.
Once you pop the upper cover off, then you can slide the lower cover up to expose the PRs. Clothpin holding up the lower cover.
Adjustable PRs would have a locking nut (see pic). Non-adjustable rod will be smooth. No way you can mix them up. However, this still doesn't tell you if you have a stock cam. The PO might have chosen to re-use the stock PRs with a new cam installed. Let us know what you find.
Once you pop the upper cover off, then you can slide the lower cover up to expose the PRs. Clothpin holding up the lower cover.
Adjustable PRs would have a locking nut (see pic). Non-adjustable rod will be smooth. No way you can mix them up. However, this still doesn't tell you if you have a stock cam. The PO might have chosen to re-use the stock PRs with a new cam installed. Let us know what you find.
#9
#10