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Trouble with the front brakes after rebuild

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  #11  
Old 06-11-2017, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Calamity Joe
I believe its the same reason I have. Just be glad the brake system on a bike isnt the same as a truck where you have 1 reservoir for both front and back.
OK I gotta ask What year and kinda truck have you got.

Times ya just gotta keep at it

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  #12  
Old 06-11-2017, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by WP50
OK I gotta ask What year and kinda truck have you got.

Times ya just gotta keep at it

WP
99 Silverado 1500
 
  #13  
Old 06-12-2017, 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Calamity Joe
Bleeding the brakes seems like devils work. I can bleed my truck but the bike hasn't been easy
Well put. On my Super Glide, my first ever hydraulic-braked bike, I resorted to laying the rear caliper on the ground to bleed it, so it was lower than the master cylinder. With a single front rotor and almost straight line the front was always dead easy. When installing a new rear line on my Glide some years ago, bleeding the darned thing took three pushes of the pedal and was as hard as rock - my best bleeding experience by a country mile!

A twin rotor front is quite another matter, despite superficially having gravity on our side. I've never had a super quick experience there, especially after making changes such as new lines. Hence my earlier comments! As Crashone points out do the left one first. We're here providing moral support, if that's any help. Together we can do this.....
 
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Old 06-12-2017, 05:45 AM
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Did you bench bleed the master cylinder?
 
  #15  
Old 06-12-2017, 08:53 AM
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Try what I suggested, the tapping works. I just did a dual front rebuild. Vacuum wouldn't work on mine either.
 
  #16  
Old 06-13-2017, 03:22 PM
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Joe
You might have it done --- how worn are your rotors ?? how bout your pins and bushings ???

Reach down and wiggle a caliper -- now squeeze the brake lever -- does the caliper tighten up ??? If it does then the only thing that you are lacking is the amount of CC's of fluid going from the Master to the the 2 calipers
H-D uses the same master on 1 and 2 caliper's -- 2 calipers has to be in almost perfect shape in order to work correctly

Temporarily put a makeshift shim between the piston and the back (metal ) of the shoe on both sides -- squeeze the lever ?? if everything feels good then there's worn parts

The master did not have enough of CC'c of fluid to push both pistons against both rotors

This is a past experiences

Speed Bleeders are " Fantastic "

Shim -- appox 1/16"
 
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Old 06-13-2017, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 81rat
Joe
You might have it done --- how worn are your rotors ?? how bout your pins and bushings ???

Reach down and wiggle a caliper -- now squeeze the brake lever -- does the caliper tighten up ??? If it does then the only thing that you are lacking is the amount of CC's of fluid going from the Master to the the 2 calipers
H-D uses the same master on 1 and 2 caliper's -- 2 calipers has to be in almost perfect shape in order to work correctly

Temporarily put a makeshift shim between the piston and the back (metal ) of the shoe on both sides -- squeeze the lever ?? if everything feels good then there's worn parts

The master did not have enough of CC'c of fluid to push both pistons against both rotors

This is a past experiences

Speed Bleeders are " Fantastic "

Shim -- appox 1/16"
Not sure about the rotor except it don't look original. I had an older bud of mine help with bleeding them to a point they work but not perfectly yet. This is a step up from before the rebuild when it work sometimes if at all. So I'm going in the right direction.

No I didn't bench bleed the master cylinder. Didn't know I was supposed to till the previous post mentioned that and my buddy also did,by then it was a little too late.
 
  #18  
Old 06-13-2017, 11:24 PM
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Now is the time to bungee the brake lever towards the grip, overnight.
Good luck.

Next I might suspect your work on the master cyl.
 
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