It depends on the adjustable.
There are 2 types.
Adjustable - which will require removing the rocker boxes
ez-install adjustable - which don't require removing the rocker boxes

 

No they Don't... I've done it several times. You do need to remove the lifter blocks though......

 

Yeah Bob I remember you saying that before,I thought I would help him out with the easy swap,lol,you know the trick,not everyone does,lol,if he's going to buy them,get the ones designed for it. I haven't tried your trick yet with mine,hopefully won't have to for a while,lol...

 

Hey Kevin, Good morning... Yea it's not for the faint hearted and can be quite tedious. I'm sure your suggestion is best for him... and sure it will help him....

Yea, as happy as you are with your's I'm sure it'll be that way for quite some time....

 

Ok I'll take your word that it is possible.
Just out of curiosity do you drop the lifters out the bottom of the lifter blocks first or do you raise the lifter blocks off the lifters to install the pushrods???

 

Wanted to thank all of you for the great input and advice. This forum is awesome.

I'm not doing the actual work, my brother has a buddy who owns a shop, Custom Design Studios in Novato, CA who will be doing the work. They also did the Wood cam install on my Road King, and cutting out the stock pushrods saved some labor costs. I eally wanted to try to tackle the cam job myself, but in the end left it to the pros as I spend most of my 'free' time chasing a 2 and 4 year old around the house.

As to the tank and fender, I think they're both from a Softail, he had them installed when the bike was new, then had everything painted in that retro candy apple/cream to match. I really like the way the rear fender looks...

 

This is a recommendation from johnjzjz"


"take a set of stock type flat top cast pistons say .010 over size if your bore is stock and hastings MOLY rings only - the heads a 3 angle valve job with new valve guides I Like cast iron guides for long life - they can lightly cut the valves you have if they are OEM and not been done before and are not worn -- use a set of 600 lift B Hive valve springs - and i would also use the ultima roller rockers they have a small ratio change that / that combo will really like - http://www.goodson.com/ -- they have valves - guides - and 600 lift b hive springs all top shelf stuff -- blue rubber valve seals NOT the TIN ones -- then andrews 27 is a good all around cam unless you want bark then andrews 45 is a arm puller - ultima single fire ignition with a dyna coil is the best package - Denso iridium sparkplugs are the best - that set up likes a 42 Mikuni carb -- have them use the .030 cometic head gaskets and cometic .010 tin base gaskets - instead of milling the heads as its just a gasket away from being stock again - built hundreds of this combo most of the twinkies wont even stay on the throttle 50 feet off a light with you as you are gone -"


If you're not wanting to replace the pistons, could go with the gasket which will slightly bump your performance. Others here also like the Ultima ignition / Dyna coil combo.

 

I start with the rear cylinder on tdc. Assemble the pushrods, tubes, seals and blocks as a unit and install the pushrods up into the rockers. Then feed the lifter in from the bottom. Once the rear is totally assembled I rotate the motor carefully to front tdc and repeat the process. The front is a lot harder cause the rear is assembled so you have a lot less room to work the lifters up into the blocks... It's not as easy as I make it sound....

 

One thing to consider is some of the early 90s evos didn't handle proformance upgrades well due to the cases having cracking issues. Not sure if this included the 92s.

 

I had my 1990 Glide stroked and tuned without any problems.