First thing is to follow the steps in your Factory Service Manual ... but guessing you may not have one before adjusting under the derby you need to introduce a lot of slack in the clutch cable so the lever is very loose ...

then under the derby loosen the lock nut and adjust the screw in only until you feel it touch, then back it out 1/4 to 1/2 turn, lock the lock nut, replace derby ... go back to the cable and adjust it so you have about 1/16 gap at the lever ... where the lever meets the lever housing ...

you can adjust where the lever grabs by adjusting the cable ... making the cable longer will move the grab point away from the grip ... making the cable shorter will move the grab point closer to the grip ...

 

yes I did all the steps as you descibed 2-3 times. I thought the adjustment at the clutch determined where it grabbed. So if everybodys clutch is adjusted the same way - 1/2 turn out at the clutch and 1/16 play at the lever what am I adjusting to help resolve shifting issues I'm having as others have suggested I try?

 

if your problem still exist after doing the adjustment at the clutch and lever you are showing the adjustment is not your problem ... if your shifting problem is still there I would really lean toward the spring plate going bad inside the clutch pack ...

the only way know to tell if it is the spring plate is to take the clutch pack apart ... someone else may know another way to tell ... sorry but I don't

 

in your first post you mention you found metal particles when you replace the cable and checked the ramps ... did you look at the throw out bearing ... it is on that side of the tranny as well ...

 

no I didn't check the throw out bearing. can someone tell me what adjustment of the clutch bolt allows the clutch plates to seperate apart more - 1/2 turn out or 1 turn out?

could the ramps or metal ***** be worn not allowing the clutch to release properly

 

if you turn the screw out too far the clutch plates will not release ... pulling the lever causing the outer ramp to rotate ... the ***** push the inner ramp against the throw out bearing ... which in turn pushes a rod that pushes against the bottom of the adjusting screw ... which pushes the plates apart ... usually 1/2 a turn works the best ...

to make the plates separate more turn the screw out less ... but you really don't want to do that ... you run the chance of the clutch slipping ...

the ramps and ***** do not normally wear ... a bad throw out bearing or bad spring plate in the clutch pack or both together can cause your problem

the clutch adjustment did not fix your problem ... that means it has nothing to do with the adjustment ... your problem is somewhere else ... stay with the 1/2 turn out on the screw and look at the throw out bearing and the spring plate ...

most important, if you don't have a Factory Service Manual, get one

 

The turnout has little effect as long as you stay where the manual states. There is a tolerance. 1/2 to1 turn. It allows for heat expansion of the plates. You need enough which is the minimum. As the plates wear, that only gets greater. So set it a little more than the minimum. It is very easy to overtighten that lock nut. Always screw it in after breaking it free and screw adjuster screw in a couple turns in past no play to deburr screw and then find no play by a combination of pulling the lever and screwing in the adjuster. Keep in mind, do not put too much slack in the cable to do what I say above.

After you find the no play, keep levering it to see if it stays the same may show you if throwout bearing is bad. I doubt there is a problem with the ***** in the actuator ram.

Now do the cable slack to the minimum but be sure that the lever hits the bar when pulled in. Those two things will get you the greatest pulling apart of the plates.

You never did add a signature line for your bike. Do you expect people to search up thru your post to figure out what model you have?

 

scg ... did you get this fixed? what did you find? posting the results can help others that read the post with the same problems ...

 

I have not got it fixed yet. I have tried adjusting the clutch using the turn the screw in until the lever starts coming off the handlebars then back it out method. No change still has problems in 3 gear and some times others. I also drained and refillEd the primary with ATF. still no change. Nothing I've done so far has made any difference in my dhifting problem. I'm unsure still where the problem is, in the clutch or the trany

 

Time to check the spring plate.