Final Evo Build
#21
Glad I could make you chuckle....
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; 05-10-2017 at 04:02 PM.
#22
You are so right T, I'm truly hoping this works as planned and then that alone, should alleviate the need for more. Nothing is guaranteed but I honestly believe this will cure my appetite. If not there's always the 124"er. Remember this in Evo land... "Till death due us part"
Glad I could make you chuckle....
Glad I could make you chuckle....
There ain't no use denying it, it is inevitable as the tides!!!!!
#23
#25
So today I got my Bearing (sleeve) for my starter drive opened up another .010" and the starter works very nicely now. I mocked up the rear cylinder to do a quick ccp reading to make sure that it was all set up to the 195 ccp or 10.3:1 I was looking for.
Now I have 3 compression gauges 2 Matco tool gauges, one is quite old but the other isn't even a year old. I also rented a brand new gauge from Auto zone just to confirm the accuracy of my gauges....
With just one revolution of the motor my gauge read 130 psi
On the second revolution it jumped to 225 psi and on the third it topped out at 240 psi. that was on the Brand new gauge from Auto zone. So next I tried my new gauge from Matco tool and got pretty much the same readings and did top out at 240 psi. I also put My old Matco gauge on and the readings were only 5 psi less than the other two.
So I guess it's safe to say that my ccp is 240 psi. Now with my cam timing the static compression appears to be around 12.1:1. I know it's very hi for the street and most likely it won't stay there. I figure I have 2 options.
1) get a different cam that can bleed of the comp to something that is a little more realistic for the street or but then I'd probably will need more head work.
2) I pull the pistons and get the top milled down to get me to my target goal of 10.3:1.
I would think the latter of the two is truly the only choice but will talk to the pro's as what best for the street. I truly do want a nice street machine. Not something I have to worry how hot it is and can I ride it today. I will call Scott in the am to discuss what's best...
Just an update and will keep them coming....
Now I have 3 compression gauges 2 Matco tool gauges, one is quite old but the other isn't even a year old. I also rented a brand new gauge from Auto zone just to confirm the accuracy of my gauges....
With just one revolution of the motor my gauge read 130 psi
On the second revolution it jumped to 225 psi and on the third it topped out at 240 psi. that was on the Brand new gauge from Auto zone. So next I tried my new gauge from Matco tool and got pretty much the same readings and did top out at 240 psi. I also put My old Matco gauge on and the readings were only 5 psi less than the other two.
So I guess it's safe to say that my ccp is 240 psi. Now with my cam timing the static compression appears to be around 12.1:1. I know it's very hi for the street and most likely it won't stay there. I figure I have 2 options.
1) get a different cam that can bleed of the comp to something that is a little more realistic for the street or but then I'd probably will need more head work.
2) I pull the pistons and get the top milled down to get me to my target goal of 10.3:1.
I would think the latter of the two is truly the only choice but will talk to the pro's as what best for the street. I truly do want a nice street machine. Not something I have to worry how hot it is and can I ride it today. I will call Scott in the am to discuss what's best...
Just an update and will keep them coming....
#26
Wow
So today I got my Bearing (sleeve) for my starter drive opened up another .010" and the starter works very nicely now. I mocked up the rear cylinder to do a quick ccp reading to make sure that it was all set up to the 195 ccp or 10.3:1 I was looking for.
Now I have 3 compression gauges 2 Matco tool gauges, one is quite old but the other isn't even a year old. I also rented a brand new gauge from Auto zone just to confirm the accuracy of my gauges....
With just one revolution of the motor my gauge read 130 psi
On the second revolution it jumped to 225 psi and on the third it topped out at 240 psi. that was on the Brand new gauge from Auto zone. So next I tried my new gauge from Matco tool and got pretty much the same readings and did top out at 240 psi. I also put My old Matco gauge on and the readings were only 5 psi less than the other two.
So I guess it's safe to say that my ccp is 240 psi. Now with my cam timing the static compression appears to be around 12.1:1. I know it's very hi for the street and most likely it won't stay there. I figure I have 2 options.
1) get a different cam that can bleed of the comp to something that is a little more realistic for the street or but then I'd probably will need more head work.
2) I pull the pistons and get the top milled down to get me to my target goal of 10.3:1.
I would think the latter of the two is truly the only choice but will talk to the pro's as what best for the street. I truly do want a nice street machine. Not something I have to worry how hot it is and can I ride it today. I will call Scott in the am to discuss what's best...
Just an update and will keep them coming....
Now I have 3 compression gauges 2 Matco tool gauges, one is quite old but the other isn't even a year old. I also rented a brand new gauge from Auto zone just to confirm the accuracy of my gauges....
With just one revolution of the motor my gauge read 130 psi
On the second revolution it jumped to 225 psi and on the third it topped out at 240 psi. that was on the Brand new gauge from Auto zone. So next I tried my new gauge from Matco tool and got pretty much the same readings and did top out at 240 psi. I also put My old Matco gauge on and the readings were only 5 psi less than the other two.
So I guess it's safe to say that my ccp is 240 psi. Now with my cam timing the static compression appears to be around 12.1:1. I know it's very hi for the street and most likely it won't stay there. I figure I have 2 options.
1) get a different cam that can bleed of the comp to something that is a little more realistic for the street or but then I'd probably will need more head work.
2) I pull the pistons and get the top milled down to get me to my target goal of 10.3:1.
I would think the latter of the two is truly the only choice but will talk to the pro's as what best for the street. I truly do want a nice street machine. Not something I have to worry how hot it is and can I ride it today. I will call Scott in the am to discuss what's best...
Just an update and will keep them coming....
I had a wise engine builder , once tell me, for a powerful, reliable street V-Twin, try to keep the corrected compression from 8.8:1 to 9.2:1 & for my application, I have to agree on those #'s.
Mine , right now is 9.08:1, corrected, 9.77:1 static with 187.3 CCP & is reliable & fun to ride. I really wouldn't wan't any more than that, but that's me plus mines a stock stroke motor & it gets real hot , in the summertime , here.
Good luck on whatever you decide to do.
Ride Safe,
Harold
#27
For me, that would be high.
I had a wise engine builder , once tell me, for a powerful, reliable street V-Twin, try to keep the corrected compression from 8.8:1 to 9.2:1 & for my application, I have to agree on those #'s.
Mine , right now is 9.08:1, corrected, 9.77:1 static with 187.3 CCP & is reliable & fun to ride. I really wouldn't wan't any more than that, but that's me plus mines a stock stroke motor & it gets real hot , in the summertime , here.
Good luck on whatever you decide to do.
Ride Safe,
Harold
I had a wise engine builder , once tell me, for a powerful, reliable street V-Twin, try to keep the corrected compression from 8.8:1 to 9.2:1 & for my application, I have to agree on those #'s.
Mine , right now is 9.08:1, corrected, 9.77:1 static with 187.3 CCP & is reliable & fun to ride. I really wouldn't wan't any more than that, but that's me plus mines a stock stroke motor & it gets real hot , in the summertime , here.
Good luck on whatever you decide to do.
Ride Safe,
Harold
#28
Don't change anything yet.
If the lifters are not fully pumped up, the ccp will be high, intake closing early.
That's what also happens when lifters bleed down and get a hard start, one reason some use limiters.
I never did it before, but maybe you could almost bottom the intake lifter and test again?
I replaced the lifters on the 111 a few weeks back, one cylinder was at 240 also.
If the lifters are not fully pumped up, the ccp will be high, intake closing early.
That's what also happens when lifters bleed down and get a hard start, one reason some use limiters.
I never did it before, but maybe you could almost bottom the intake lifter and test again?
I replaced the lifters on the 111 a few weeks back, one cylinder was at 240 also.
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98hotrodfatboy (05-11-2017)
#29
Don't change anything yet.
If the lifters are not fully pumped up, the ccp will be high, intake closing early.
That's what also happens when lifters bleed down and get a hard start, one reason some use limiters.
I never did it before, but maybe you could almost bottom the intake lifter and test again?
I replaced the lifters on the 111 a few weeks back, one cylinder was at 240 also.
If the lifters are not fully pumped up, the ccp will be high, intake closing early.
That's what also happens when lifters bleed down and get a hard start, one reason some use limiters.
I never did it before, but maybe you could almost bottom the intake lifter and test again?
I replaced the lifters on the 111 a few weeks back, one cylinder was at 240 also.